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Old 03-12-2013, 10:50 PM
PaulMys PaulMys is offline
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Default Question about polish

O.K.- Want to wash, clay bar, polish and wax the RAM this spring. I have washed a truck before (duh) and, after reading about the clay bar, feel fairly confidant on using it. Same goes for the wax. My only question (even after reading and watching a few videos) is about applying polish. Is it the same as applying wax? Meaning rub on/off. Or is there a special technique involved? A couple of videos I viewed seemed to just touch on it, and it seemed as if the process was the same as applying wax, just wanted some forum advice on this, as you guys would know best.
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Old 03-12-2013, 11:47 PM
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You have washed a truck before, but have you washed a truck properly? 2 bucket system, 2 or 3 mitts used on separate levels of the vehicle to prevent transfer? Power air drying or good waffle weave towels to dry? Getting into proper detailing is a whole new can of worms, so be aware.

Polish needs to be worked to have any effect. Something like a Porter Cable 7424X electric polisher is perfect for people just getting started, it's damned near impossible to burn paint with it compared to a faster rotary polisher. It's a lot slower, but you can't screw it up.

Now, if you're talking about a sealer/glaze, then it's applied similar to wax, but doesn't truly fix the paint, just fills in the swirls and under the direct sun you can still see them at the right angle.

For someone just getting into it, I'd check out a large set of videos by Junkman2000 in youtube, his cover everything from the very basics of proper washing, to polishing, to waxing. It's not the be all and end all, but it definitely educates you.
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:31 PM
PaulMys PaulMys is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CdnoilRAM View Post
You have washed a truck before, but have you washed a truck properly? 2 bucket system, 2 or 3 mitts used on separate levels of the vehicle to prevent transfer? Power air drying or good waffle weave towels to dry? Getting into proper detailing is a whole new can of worms, so be aware.

Polish needs to be worked to have any effect. Something like a Porter Cable 7424X electric polisher is perfect for people just getting started, it's damned near impossible to burn paint with it compared to a faster rotary polisher. It's a lot slower, but you can't screw it up.

Now, if you're talking about a sealer/glaze, then it's applied similar to wax, but doesn't truly fix the paint, just fills in the swirls and under the direct sun you can still see them at the right angle.

For someone just getting into it, I'd check out a large set of videos by Junkman2000 in youtube, his cover everything from the very basics of proper washing, to polishing, to waxing. It's not the be all and end all, but it definitely educates you.
2 bucket system: check. 4 mitts/ micro fiber cloths: check. Air dry: check. Cd- thanks for the tips on the videos and the polisher. I WILL do this come hell or high water! LOL.
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Old 03-13-2013, 09:58 PM
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I had just gotten into it last summer before that truck got wrecked. I had bought everything and had polished it up over the course of a week, makes a HUGE difference when you treat the paint properly rather than just fill in.

One other thing to look at when you're getting into it, is do the research on the products you use. I don't buy any of the products off of the auto parts shelf anymore. I love the Adam's waxes, but stick with the Meguire's professional polishes; i pick them up from my local body shop supply. I know people that swear by Zaino, but I haven't found any difference between it and the Adam's stuff.
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:24 PM
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Ah, another vote for Adams' stuff. I think Grubrunner speaks highly of this as well. That is one of the kits i was interested in- Premium hand polish and car wax kit. I think that was my question in my O.P. The video showed the guy hand-rubbing all of the steps. It did mention that you had to start with a "Very good or like new surface" which I have. I washed it at least twice a week until it got too cold. Did the plastic bag test the other day, and it feels pretty smooth, so that is why I thought about all hand-applied products.
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:36 PM
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Yes, I'm a HUGE Adam's Poilshes fan. It makes up 95% of all my detailing supplies. The other 5% is brands/products that have served me well for many years that I refuse to give up; that and those products are better than Adam's equivalent IMO.

What "polishes" are you looking at using and what application method were you thinking of pursuing?
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grubrunner View Post
Yes, I'm a HUGE Adam's Poilshes fan. It makes up 95% of all my detailing supplies. The other 5% is brands/products that have served me well for many years that I refuse to give up; that and those products are better than Adam's equivalent IMO.

What "polishes" are you looking at using and what application method were you thinking of pursuing?
Grub- I was looking at a few, like Griots and Adams to name two. And (thanks to one of your links) watched an Adams video on the " premium hand polish & car wax kit" It showed the guy hand-applying all of the steps. What do you say? Is this what you do, or do you machine-apply?
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Old 03-15-2013, 09:04 AM
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Following a wash and clay, I do a [complete restoration] machine polish once a year on my Ram - or every other if the need doesn't arise - and my Tahoe and then hand application when needed throughout the year.

I follow the three step process as described by Dylan HERE using the same products described. My difference is I place an X on the pads [little more product] and always polish at speed 6. I always do two passes on the hood and roof and a single pass everywhere else.

I own both the Porter Cable 7424XP and the Flex XC3401VRG. HERE is a great educational thread for you to read on Adam's boards about which product is right for you.

IMO: the Porter Cable is VERY forgiving and VERY easy to use. The Flex is a LOT less forgiving and can damage your paint if you're not alert or don't know what you're doing. If you've never machine polished before, I STRONGLY urge you to start with the PC. Many claim you can't get the results from the PC as you can from the Flex. For the most part, I don't agree. Now, unless I have a more severe area that needs attention, I rarely bring out the Flex polisher as the PC serves me just fine.

I will say this: my vehicles are white which is a very easy color to restore and bling back up as it shows nowhere near the imperfections as a darker color does. I believe this is the main reason the PC works for me just fine. A couple of years ago, I did a COMPLETE [machine] restoration on my friend's newly purchased BLACK 2010 Chevy Avalanche. I didn't get the end results I wanted and it bugged me for weeks. I had him return in three weeks and I re-did the entire thing with the Flex polisher as described by Adam himself HERE & finished off with THIS exact method. HUGE difference.

Also, upon purchasing both vehicles, I did a Flex complete resotoration on both vehicles and now just maintain with the PC when need be.

Hope this helped.
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Old 03-15-2013, 07:43 PM
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Lots of great advice here Paulmys

to add to the list of sugested products, i like the following;

Duragloss, Scholl Concepts, Sonax.

Optimum also makes an excellent line of polishes as well, and they are very affordable...
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Old 03-17-2013, 03:41 PM
PaulMys PaulMys is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grubrunner View Post
Following a wash and clay, I do a [complete restoration] machine polish once a year on my Ram - or every other if the need doesn't arise - and my Tahoe and then hand application when needed throughout the year.

I follow the three step process as described by Dylan HERE using the same products described. My difference is I place an X on the pads [little more product] and always polish at speed 6. I always do two passes on the hood and roof and a single pass everywhere else.

I own both the Porter Cable 7424XP and the Flex XC3401VRG. HERE is a great educational thread for you to read on Adam's boards about which product is right for you.

IMO: the Porter Cable is VERY forgiving and VERY easy to use. The Flex is a LOT less forgiving and can damage your paint if you're not alert or don't know what you're doing. If you've never machine polished before, I STRONGLY urge you to start with the PC. Many claim you can't get the results from the PC as you can from the Flex. For the most part, I don't agree. Now, unless I have a more severe area that needs attention, I rarely bring out the Flex polisher as the PC serves me just fine.

I will say this: my vehicles are white which is a very easy color to restore and bling back up as it shows nowhere near the imperfections as a darker color does. I believe this is the main reason the PC works for me just fine. A couple of years ago, I did a COMPLETE [machine] restoration on my friend's newly purchased BLACK 2010 Chevy Avalanche. I didn't get the end results I wanted and it bugged me for weeks. I had him return in three weeks and I re-did the entire thing with the Flex polisher as described by Adam himself HERE & finished off with THIS exact method. HUGE difference.

Also, upon purchasing both vehicles, I did a Flex complete resotoration on both vehicles and now just maintain with the PC when need be.

Hope this helped.
Yes, it sure did. Thanks, Grub for all of your time and good advice.
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