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  #11  
Old 12-21-2009, 04:08 PM
CBRHAULER CBRHAULER is offline
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I'm assuming by your surprise the axles are normally pretty strong. You think I should replace it with another stock one, or should I try to find something stronger?
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Old 12-21-2009, 04:10 PM
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I've not seen a lot of axle failures but The joints do go from time to time, especially in high mileage vehicles. For some reason, they're overlooked a lot during servicing.
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Old 12-21-2009, 08:59 PM
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See something missing?
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  #14  
Old 12-21-2009, 09:03 PM
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Wow. Never seen that happen to one before.
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Old 03-18-2013, 11:07 AM
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Default Broken U Joint /broken drive shaft

First I would like to say Hello to everyone on the board. I have spoken with a few of you, but not made my offical first post.

I came accross this thread and I did pretty much the exact same thing to my driver's side. No more u-joint.

I am getting some help on the repair from my father in law. However, being a little more tech savy, I have to get together the parts for the repair.

I searched for a How-to and didn't find anything. Any ideas?

Also, Other then the obvious.....Drive shaft, U-joint, Connection on the wheel-side of the ujoint. Are there any other parts that we will need?

1997 Dodge 1500 5.2 4x4 suto std cab std bed

Thanks!!!
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Old 03-23-2013, 01:11 AM
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Buy a new half shaft, or get one from a recycler. The stock axle assy's are fine, strength wise, but if your axle joints are worn out, one good torque up while the wheels are turned, and off come the yokes when the slopped out, needle bearing-less u-joint needs to go into maximum work hard mode. The drivers is relatively simple, however time consuming to replace, the passenger side needs to have the round thing on the inboard end to center up properly to the inner shaft. You won't need to remove the differential or anything crazy like that, just the wheel, rotor, dust shield, and bearing, if my memory serves me properly. use a six point socket (non impact, they fit sloppier, and you want a snug fit) on those three hexes holding the wheel bearing. Your axle nut is a 1 &11/16. A standard deep socket will get the job done for a lot less money than the fancy special socket, just grind your wall thickness down a little.I do not recommend an impact socket, the wall thickness is too great, you'll be grinding all day.
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Old 03-23-2013, 08:55 AM
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Default Thanks for the reply

Should I try to track down a wheel bearing puller? I will be doing the work at my cabin, about a hour away from any parts store. So, I want to make sure I have all the tools that I will need.

Thanks
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Old 03-25-2013, 12:29 AM
Screamintrashcan Screamintrashcan is offline
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I simply cannot remember if the balljoints need to be separated or not, seems to me, not. The nicest thing to have is heat, but not totally necessary. The most difficult thing I remember was separating the bearing from the dust shield, and not destroying the dust shield. I was patient, and kept working a large screwdriver as a wedge around the edge of the bearing mount boss. once you get a little gap, it becomes much easier to spread the gap. Consider the 'wedge' a sacrifice to the cause, a 3 Lb hammer helps! I heated my bearing bolts, they came off easily that way. I bought the zerk-less ujoints, and drilled and threaded my own zerks into a cap, # 7 drill, and 1/4 x28 tap, easy to grease, now. I don't know anything about a wheelbearing puller, But it may be a good idea to buy new wheel bearing hub assys, once you have it opened up. Buy some anti seize, and use it, in case you ever have to go there, again! It would've been nice if there had been some around the centering pilot for the bearing assy! Remember to buy a new cotter pin for the axle nut, and a cheater bar for the axle nut, or a good impact gun, sometimes they're TOO tight, which is also a bad thing.

Last edited by Screamintrashcan; 03-25-2013 at 12:35 AM.
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