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  #1  
Old 08-07-2011, 07:30 PM
Frank Drebin Frank Drebin is offline
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Default How to remove inner door skin? Gen 4

How do you remove the black plastic door skin to get at the inside of the door?

It is attached by fasteners that look like they are screwed from the inside?



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Old 08-07-2011, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RamTech View Post
The piece you're referring to is called a carrier plate. Instructions are below.

REMOVAL


<A xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> 1 - Remove the trim panel (6) 2 - Remove the door speaker.


<A xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> 3 - If required, reinstall the regulator handle or window switch to enable lowering of the glass (1) for access to the glass attachment clips (2) through the speaker opening and the service access plug. 4 - Separate the glass clips (2) from the regulator lift plates (3 and 4). 5 - Raise the glass (1) into the full up position and secure in place using tape or equivalent. 6 - Disconnect the door electrical connector.


<A xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">

NOTE: The following illustration shows a typical door harness connector. 7 - Peel the A Pillar grommet (1) off of the connector/retainer and move it up the wire harness. 8 - Grasp the wire harness (2) by the convolute section of the grommet and gently pull the wire harness down towards the floor to expose the connector lock tabs.
CAUTION: Do not force the locking tab past the connector body, as damage to the connector may occur.
9 - While still pulling down on the harness, use a small slotted screw driver (3) to gently push one of the top lock tabs until the lock feature is flush with the connector/retainer body. 10 - Repeat the step 3 for the remaining top lock tab. 11 - The connector should now be able to rock out of the sheet metal hole without causing any damage to the connector or sheet metal.


<A xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> 12 - Remove the service access plug (2) and disconnect the exterior handle linkages (1).


<A xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> 13 - Remove the screws (2) and separate the wire harness (1) from the door.


<A xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> 14 - On standard cab models only, remove the lower belt channel (2) shut face screw (1).


<A xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> 15 - Remove the door latch (2) mounting screws (3).


<A xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">

NOTE: Standard cab model shown, all others similar. 16 - Remove the bolts (5) (quantity of 13 on standard cab, 12 on all other models) and remove the carrier plate assembly (1) from the door.
Found it on another section..should help out here
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Old 08-07-2011, 08:56 PM
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That's good stuff. Randy put up a LOT of nice information here.
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Old 08-07-2011, 09:39 PM
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Man....that looks like alot of work to get in there......lol
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Old 08-07-2011, 09:46 PM
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It's ridiculous how much you have to do to get that piece out. And Heaven Forbid you break any of it - Dodge will rape you big time to replace those parts.
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Old 08-07-2011, 11:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chithead View Post
It's ridiculous how much you have to do to get that piece out. And Heaven Forbid you break any of it - Dodge will rape you big time to replace those parts.
Yeah, no kidding. I pulled the rear drivers door panel off this afternoon to see what it was like in there, I was able to get a good portion of it dynamatted with the skin on, just thru the speaker and access hole. I'll have to do it again on the inside of the skin because there's not a lot of places on the outside to put deadener.

I'm hoping ~75% coverage should be sufficient. I can't see me pulling the door apart to make sure I'm fully deadened. The doors are pretty darn well built from factory IMO. Even saw a tiny chunk of factory deadener right behind the speaker. I will put a layer of 1/4" dynaliner on the inside of the panel for buzzing.
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Old 08-08-2011, 12:29 AM
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Actually . . . 25% coverage is all you really need. So there shouldn't be any problems for you.
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Old 08-08-2011, 03:35 AM
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Talk about a pain in the @$$! Great info. Thanks
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Old 08-03-2013, 01:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 11Ram06Daytona View Post
Talk about a pain in the @$$! Great info. Thanks
I got the door trim pannel off jut fine. But I'm having a hell of a time getting it back on. I can't seem to line up all those hook/clips in their slots. What a pain!!! I gave up after 15 mins. I'll tackle it in the morning. Any help or suggestions???
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Old 08-03-2013, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chithead View Post
Actually . . . 25% coverage is all you really need. So there shouldn't be any problems for you.
What he said -- IF you don't use Dynamat. Use SDS tiles, or AlphaDamp, and you only need 25%. That's about a couple of tiles on each door panel.
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