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  #1  
Old 08-12-2013, 12:59 PM
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I have a 1985 dodge W150 with a 5.2L 318 and was wondering if there was anyway that i could get more power out of it with out a rebuild. I am thinking about a rebuild or maybe even a bigger motor. Any ideas?? Help greatly appreciated.
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Old 08-12-2013, 01:24 PM
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Depends on what you're looking for. Low rpm power or power up top. The pre-fuel injection 318's had crap plastic-toothed timing gear, so if it hasn't been changed in a while, do it and use a steel unit. The cam is so mild in these engines, every little bit helps. Naturally, addressing choke points is essential. Even a big single exhaust will help. I'd pull the stock exhaust manifolds off, plug the air injection ports, install headers and dials ghat angle out in front of the rear wheels. An Edelbrock Performer and a small 4v carb will work wonders. Naturally, emissions issues can factor in, but to see how much can be done without really trying, read this:
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/t...lock_bolt_ons/
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Old 08-12-2013, 02:29 PM
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Naturally, if you just want a mild increase in grunt, a 360 will slide right in place. Just use a correct 360 converter (has an external balance weight) or get a balance plate from someone like B&M and use your current 318 converter (if an automatic). Flywheel balance issues are similar in the stick shift models with 360 being an externally balance engine.
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:36 AM
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i have no clue which i want to do i want something so i can get off of the line at a stop light quick enough that if im in a hurry i have a chance. My truck is an automatic. The truck is all original in the motor department. This is a truck that i want to be trust worthy. I will be driving my truck to my last two years of high school. And then im gonna take it off to college with me so i need it to be good with long trips and good on gas. so any suggestions?
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:01 PM
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Cam: Xtreme Energy™, XE256H and matching springs.
A decent set of headers. If you can pop for a set of ceramic or epoxy-coated ones, that's a plus (keeps underhood temps down). Even the cheapos flow better than those factory logs you have now. The Edelbrock Performer intake will make a nice upgrade. Top it with the Edelbrock Performer AFB or Thunder Series AVS....something around a 600cfm, the AVS comes in a 650. AFB comes in a 600. Either is fine. Unless you're sure of relatively low mileage you should plan on a rebuild. Fresh bearings, gaskets, moly-coated piston rings, new oil pump, and recond heads. Button it up and you'll never have a problem. My first car had a 318. We re-used all the bolt hardware. We ridge-reamed the cylinders and went back with the stock pistons and rings, broke the glaze on the cylinder walls. It was about as low-buck as you could get. A couple years later I added the CompCams High Energy 260 and an old Edelbrock SP2-P intake. The Holley my dad insisted on never was set up right, so later I got an Edelbrock AFB. FINALLY! Man that thing would run. The stock heads and SP2-P intake made it a stump-puller, which translated to great mileage. It had oooomph for getting that car moving, and the 2.76 rear gear kept the revs low. It regularly averaged 19mpg in a '69 Charger. (Over the same route, driving the same way, my then-new 318 Shelby Dakota pickup NEVER saw better than 15mpg and it had every advantage). That was 25 years ago in a then near 20 year old car. No overdrive transmission or lockup converter. No electronic ignition. I still grin when I remember "my therapy." I, on a daily basis, ran the begeesus outta that thing and it never broke. Sure sounded good. That means redline shifts at 5,800rpm. That sounds not-so-exotic, but remember, this was a 1969 engine, and already had over 100K miles when rebuilt. All the stock bolts went back in. That's how well these things were built. Man, what I coulda done with the stuff available today!
Oh, if for some reason you happen to have a roller-cammed 318 (started in 1985 in cars, then phased into trucks a little later, but you never know), I'd use this cam: CompCams Xtreme Energy™, XR258.

Last edited by Gen1dak; 08-13-2013 at 05:51 PM.
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Old 08-13-2013, 08:28 PM
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Drop a 5.9 Magnum (360) in (or a 440).
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Old 08-14-2013, 09:44 AM
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Thanks guys ill keep in mind and try to start ordering parts for it. I don't know if i should rebuild my transfer case and transmission so i wont have to worry a few years down the road. When i rebuild the motor should i rebuild the transmission and the transfer case also?
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Old 08-14-2013, 11:22 AM
Gen1dak Gen1dak is offline
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What sort of mileage are you talking about? Probably bet on a transmission freshening up. Hard to say on transfer case. An inspection would help with that decision. It may not need much. Don't forget the axles. Put a good quality kit in that transmission and it'll still be running fine when you graduate.

Last edited by Gen1dak; 08-14-2013 at 11:26 AM.
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:59 PM
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i have roughly 116k miles on it but it could be 216k because it has the 5-digit odometer. I would like to have a really good reliable truck that i can dog everynow and then because we have some nice mud pits around my area.
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Old 08-14-2013, 01:51 PM
Gen1dak Gen1dak is offline
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Could only be 100K and not 200K. Anyway, the original torqueflite transmissions could easily last over 200K, but by the mid-70's the bean counters had pared that down by half to save money, so yeah, slap a new kit in that transmission. If the friction parts aren't worn totally out you might not even have to replace any of the hard parts like the drums. Still, even they aren't expensive.
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