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Towing 4th Gen Dodge Ram Towing Questions


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  #51  
Old 07-13-2013, 02:06 PM
huntergreen huntergreen is offline
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in addition to what army of one has done, is there an aftermarket oversized radiator for the hemi that can be installed? what does the hemi use for cooling on the 2500 which is rated for higher tow ratings? my thought is, if the hemi holds up well in the 2500, then op shouldn't be having this heat problem, even if he is right at max tow for his vehicle.

Last edited by huntergreen; 07-13-2013 at 02:08 PM.
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  #52  
Old 07-13-2013, 04:32 PM
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ok i think there is another important factor here, (not a cure but it will help) what about under hood temps? if the engine is running hot the ambient temp under the hodd will be alot higher. in some cases it helps to have a way for air to escape other than just following the firewall and going under the vehicle. maybe someone mentioned this and i didn't see it but i have seen radiator fins get plugged by dirt and bugs. it will work it's way into the fins and greatly reduce airflow through the radiator. a friend of mine has a 2010 r/t ram and after we put a b&m blower (supercharger if you like) he had very serious issues with heat. we put in the same rad the power wagon uses. (not sure if it was any different than his old rad) but it helped. we also opened the two small nostril scoops in his hood to add airflow under the hood and that helped as well. to help his oil temp we put in a bigger oil cooler and i had an idea. (from my hobby) ok hobby is a fancy way of saying i like toys. lol. if my nitro r/c truck uses a heat sink to cool the engine why not make a heat sink for the sides of the oil pan? so we did. we used several small aluminum heat sinks soldered together and made a bracket to attach them to the sides of the oil pan and secure them with a few of the oilpan bolts. it worked that brought his oil temp down by 20 degrees and helped cool even when we were racing it. just my 2 cents as to what may help. you can't go wrong with airflow.
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  #53  
Old 07-13-2013, 07:52 PM
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Some good points there^^^^^. The first thing I did when I brought my truck home was remove the grill and cut pieces of wire screen to block any foreign matter including rocks from hitting or plugging the fins on the radiator, I cut them to fit each opening on the backside of the grill and tie wrapped each piece. This way when I go to a car wash I can pressure wash everything from the outside without the pressure of the hose folding over the fins on the radiator. My point being, there will never be any blockage in fhe radiator fins. My last truck had 35000 miles when I traded it in and the radiator looked brand new.
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  #54  
Old 07-14-2013, 12:38 PM
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are the screens you installed in the grill clogged? are they impeding airflow even when clean?
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  #55  
Old 07-14-2013, 12:44 PM
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Under the hood and carriage ambient temps improve with those running 180 tstats.
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  #56  
Old 08-06-2013, 07:51 PM
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well after reading through this entire thread ive decided to chime in and possibly help out. Im in the same boat as the OP with the operating temps when towing a 6500 lbs travel trailer. I have a 2013 sport with the towing package (heavy duty engine cooler/trans cooler) and my temps went up to about 220-240 (coolant) and 230-250 (oil temps), tranny temps never saw higher that 180-190.

Im going on another trip middle of next week and plan to install a 180 tstat before i leave. I will report back after the trip to see if it helps!!
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  #57  
Old 08-25-2013, 11:26 AM
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What is normal when towing? Does anyone know for sure? I towed 80 degree weather a 3000 lbs trailer 125 miles and my radiator temp on the in dash said 220 and oil temp at 220. I was thinking WHAT IF I was pulling my max pulling capacity would I be able to do it with this truck. To me that is too high for a light load. My truck just turned 11,500 on the odometer and its like new in and out so now radiator issue or clogging issues for sure. I was going to call the dealer and ask them if they knew the facts on temp while towing. I was thinking about doing the 180 thermostat and go from there but I have the lifetime max agreement so I don't want to effect that.
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  #58  
Old 08-25-2013, 12:02 PM
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^That certainly seems too high IMO. My 4.7L with 3.55's towed ~4,000lb at about 65-70mph from orlando to north carolina and never saw engine coolant temps above 200 deg until we got to the mountains at deal's gap and we were crawling at more like 30-40mph and at the end of the climb it got up to around 220 deg. If it wasn't the end of the hill I would have pulled over to cool down. I do also have a 180 tstat and a stall converter. I'm going to be swapping back to stock converter to see how much of a difference that makes.
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  #59  
Old 08-25-2013, 11:22 PM
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Friend had same issue when pulling. Removed bull bar from front bumper and problem was solved. Blocking air flow.
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Old 01-28-2014, 05:20 PM
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I have a 05 with the 5.7 with 3.92. As far as heating goes when I tow my 33ft travel trailer, don't know exact weight but it's a 92 model and it's prolly heavier than yours, it stayed pretty cool but my thermostat was staying open all the time until I replaced it. I would say go to a 190 t stat or a 180. If that doesn't work I would take it a shop that can do a cooling system flush and cleaning. We do then at my shop for around 90 bucks. My truck started running much cooler once I got the dexcool that comes stock in our truck out. Dexcool has a tendency to start blocking the system once it gets old or is mixed with other type of coolant including universal. I see it daily in our trucks and Chevy trucks that coolant is starting to get "chunky" and gooey. I would honestly do both but that's where I would start.
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