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  #1  
Old 08-30-2013, 12:26 PM
Hemimax06 Hemimax06 is offline
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Purchased an 05 1500 4x4 a couple weeks ago. I really love the truck so far but I want to make it look a little more aggressive. I was thinking maybe 2 or 3 inches and a little bit bigger tires. Nothing too much as I just sold a truck with 38in tires and can't afford the terrible MPG.

I was hoping somebody could help me choose the right lift for what I am after. I have read some people using billenstein shocks to lift them. Will they work on my truck? Is a leveling kit the best option? The front of my truck is currently about 2.5 in lower than the rear.

The price of the lift is important also. Does not have to be the cheapest but can not afford anything too expensive. Thanks for any help you can offer.
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:34 PM
HammerRammer HammerRammer is offline
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This article has some inexpensive options...

http://news.pickuptrucks.com/2010/07...-for-less.html
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Old 08-30-2013, 08:18 PM
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Bilstein 5100's (adjustable/leveling) shocks that you are thinking of won't work on torsion bar suspension trucks.. but you are in luck.
If all you are looking for is 2" or so (or level the truck out) then just crank your stock torsion bars to level the truck. It will make it look a bit more aggressive and allow you to run a little taller tire without rubbing (given the correct offset and width).
Don't waste any money on aftermarket keys, they are a gimmick. Use the money to buy a decent set of shocks that are 2" longer (front) and stock height for the rear.
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Old 08-30-2013, 11:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWRQC View Post
Bilstein 5100's (adjustable/leveling) shocks that you are thinking of won't work on torsion bar suspension trucks.. but you are in luck.
If all you are looking for is 2" or so (or level the truck out) then just crank your stock torsion bars to level the truck. It will make it look a bit more aggressive and allow you to run a little taller tire without rubbing (given the correct offset and width).
Don't waste any money on aftermarket keys, they are a gimmick. Use the money to buy a decent set of shocks that are 2" longer (front) and stock height for the rear.
Agreed! ^^^^^^ After you crank the torsion bars, you're gonna want to get an alignment after you put the shocks on as well.
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Old 08-31-2013, 12:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerRamJet View Post
Agreed! ^^^^^^ After you crank the torsion bars, you're gonna want to get an alignment after you put the shocks on as well.
YES!! I forgot that part... oooops..
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Old 08-31-2013, 10:45 AM
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My buddy has an 05, he was able to get 3 inches out of the front, and put 2 inch blocks in the rear. He runs 35 inch tires too. Truck looks good, this is what I would do in your case.
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Old 09-01-2013, 03:50 PM
Hemimax06 Hemimax06 is offline
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Thanks for the help guys. I have decided to just crank the bars for now but have a couple ?' I have read to go only 2.5in at most the problem is my driver side sits about 1in lower than the passenger and looking at the bolts it looks to already be tightened in more than the passenger side. Should I go up the 2--2 1/2 on the driver side and then match the passenger or go up on the passenger and then match the other side to make up the diff? Would you think the driver aside has just started sagging more than the other and it would be ok to go more than the recommended 2in on that side?

I would like to raise the front end as much as possible but obviously do not want to cause problems. I have been pulling my measurements off of the center of wheel to bottom of fender. Is there a better place I should be measuring because the tires are not exactly even tread? Not a major difference but a little. Sorry about all the ?'s and I really appreciate the help
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Old 09-02-2013, 03:10 PM
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I would keep it between 2-2.5" at most. The more you crank them the stiffer the ride will get. I even out the front ( side to side) then raise the front up to level the truck out, which will be about 2.5". You can go a little less if you want a slight rake still.
I would measure from the bottom lip of the rim (center) to the center arch of the fender that way you're not trying to center one end of the tape on the center of the wheel.
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