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Oil Change Ready to change the oil in your Dodge Ram? Engine -Trans - Differential - Transfer Case


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  #21  
Old 08-18-2013, 10:18 PM
ValleyRacer ValleyRacer is offline
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Default Keeps the cholesterol down!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hermes1 View Post
No has to be Canola oil.

A mechanically untrained friend is a manager at Jiffy Lube. I showed him how to change spark plugs for the first time. So sad.

He reports most of the oil drained from customers cars looks like thin black coffee.

His customers opt for the CHEAPEST oil/filter combos. The courtesy refill oil (top off oil) for the $30 oil change is straight guage 30 weight.

It's just appalling what people do with oil changes. Then you have these bone-heads telling people not to use synthetic oil. Just talking hot=air out the behind is what they're doing.
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  #22  
Old 08-18-2013, 10:24 PM
ValleyRacer ValleyRacer is offline
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Default Well there you have it!!

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Originally Posted by Irv View Post
My personal believe now with regards to synthetic is, if you don't tow/haul on a regular basis, live in a cold/hot climate, drive in dusty/dirty conditions, drive constantly in stop and go traffic etc etc, then synthetic isn't likely for you, especially if you are changing your oil at the 5000-7000 mile mark or less.
The only factor, and a cogent one, that you've overlooked, incidentally, is that there is virtually NO mechanical wear when you run synthetic oil.

But it's a free country, you own the truck, so use the oil you choose according to the rationale you outlined above.
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  #23  
Old 08-18-2013, 10:37 PM
ValleyRacer ValleyRacer is offline
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Default AMSOIL is absolutely superior

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Originally Posted by Jomiha View Post
Yep they use conventional Pennzoil. Funny thing is...my dealer gave me 4 free oil changes......and I asked them if I could pay an upcharge to synthetic....they said they would have to charge me full price.....so I asked if I could purchase and bring my own oil (amsoil) and them just change it....and they said they would have to charge me labor.

Makes very little sense to me......if they pay for the oil its free labor...if I pay for the oil its not.

Oh well....I got my first oil change for free thru them, and at 10k im swapping myself to amsoil.
When my 1999 Dodge NEON RT was new AND (big qualifier there) AND the AMSOIL dealer was conveniently close - I used AMSOIL 10w-40. Perfect for California warmer climates. He moved, so I now use ANY Synthetic oil/filter AutoZone has on sale.
On the original engine with consistent synthetic oil changes between 8K and 9K and a good filter. Look here:



All of today's synthetics are perfectly good. AMSOIL though is very good.
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  #24  
Old 09-03-2013, 11:03 PM
rambill rambill is offline
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My dealer told me my first oil change is on them so I will ask if I can pay the difference for synthetic. The "User Guide" that came with my truck stated the break-in period on these modern engines is very short 300 miles. Seems low to me but some do not even consider a break-in period exists. Opinions on mileage for first oil change appreciated. Thanks
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  #25  
Old 09-04-2013, 06:59 AM
JCC11 JCC11 is offline
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My dealer provides free oil and filter changes for a LIFETIME! They also provide several other lifetime services for free. It's a nice perk. I only have 700 miles on my 2013 Limited (2014 replacement Limited is on order).

I'm a big believer in using synthetic from oil change #1. I do so in all my cars, trucks, and especially motorcycles.

I am concerned about the oil used in the free services. I asked the salesman, who said he thinks they use a full synth as standard, but I doubt that's so. I will ask the service dept. if they do not have full synthetic I will offer to bring my own. I hope they have no issues with that.
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  #26  
Old 09-04-2013, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irv View Post
They are telling the truth for the most part, Dino oil has come a long ways and some recent UOA's have proven it is now lasting as well as protecting pretty close to synthetic numbers.

....

No doubt Syn is good oil but that also depends on who's you purchase??
Some excellent things to think about in your post and all well presented.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ValleyRacer View Post
The only factor, and a cogent one, that you've overlooked, incidentally, is that there is virtually NO mechanical wear when you run synthetic oil.
Whoa, whoa, whoa there big fella! As a simple blanket statement, which is how you presented it, that is patently false. Incorrect. Wrong!

It very much depends on WHICH engine and WHICH synthetic oil. Not all engines are engineered the same and not all oils (synth or dino) are engineered the same either.

A synthetic which might provide superb wear protection for one engine, just might kill the lobes on a flat tappet motor in a hurry, especially considering the very low levels of ZDDP's in most synthetics.

What I took away from Irv's post, and I'm in agreement with him on this, is that there really isn't any need for "opinion" or speculation on this subject. There is data, science, facts, all available for the very low cost of regular UOA's that you can use.

Personally, I'll take a few UOA's over all the opinions, anecdotal evidence and internet expertise in the world.

- DAA
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  #27  
Old 09-04-2013, 10:09 AM
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We have a 2000 honda accord in the family that I bought new. I changed the oil every 7k or so miles with regular dino oil. Car has 250,000+++ miles on it now and runs fine.
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  #28  
Old 09-04-2013, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DAA View Post
Some excellent things to think about in your post and all well presented.




Whoa, whoa, whoa there big fella! As a simple blanket statement, which is how you presented it, that is patently false. Incorrect. Wrong!

It very much depends on WHICH engine and WHICH synthetic oil. Not all engines are engineered the same and not all oils (synth or dino) are engineered the same either.

A synthetic which might provide superb wear protection for one engine, just might kill the lobes on a flat tappet motor in a hurry, especially considering the very low levels of ZDDP's in most synthetics.

What I took away from Irv's post, and I'm in agreement with him on this, is that there really isn't any need for "opinion" or speculation on this subject. There is data, science, facts, all available for the very low cost of regular UOA's that you can use.

Personally, I'll take a few UOA's over all the opinions, anecdotal evidence and internet expertise in the world.

- DAA
Well said DAA.

My guess is most on here are unaware that the synthetic they use isn't likely synthetic at all, but rather a Type 3 POA?

Years ago (Google it) Mobil took Castrol to court because Castrol was calling their type 3 Dino oil synthetic.

Mobil pleaded their case but the judge overseeing the matter didn't agree, due to lack of knowledge imo, and threw the case out more or less.

Since then many have been claiming their oil is full or true synthetic when in fact it isn't, it is nothing more than a type 3 dino oil.

My personal opinion on this is that type 3 is a very good oil, but synthetic it is not, but that also depends on who manu's it and what additive pkg they use.

Like you mentioned, the only true way of knowing what you are paying for and how good it is, is to actually get some UOA's done or at least look at some VOA's before purchasing it.
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  #29  
Old 09-04-2013, 06:23 PM
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I cannot speak for the brand new motors as motor technology has changed a lot just in the last few years but synthetic has always been a huge no-no for BREAK IN oil. The simple reasoning behind this is that because synthetic oil has so much more lubricity it prevents the piston rings from seating resulting in a loss of compression. I have built several motors and believe in using dino oil for break in and then switch to synthetic after break in is over.
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