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  #11  
Old 09-08-2013, 11:08 PM
jcmcalli jcmcalli is offline
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I have a 2013 Dodge Ram Sport with the Premium system. I tapped into the Subwoofer out lines from the stock amplifier under the steering wheel (noted below: pin 20 gray with white stripe (sub -) pin 21 green with white stripe (sub +)) and ran those directly into an audiocontrol LC2i with the optional remote bass control mod. This converts the signal into RCAs and gives a remote signal sensing output for the amps which I ran to my two Alpine MRD-M1005 amplifiers to power two Alpine R type 12s in a ported fox box. The signal is very clean and the bass is a perfect compliment to the alpine premium system. My amp gains are set to zero, and the bass is controlled through the bass knob. As a side note, if you are planning to add multi channel amps, I would tap the REAR speakers only. The Lc2i has spots for both left and right speakers and the rear speakers are the only speakers which i understand to have a full frequency range.

Here are the pin outs for the stock alpine amp I found elsewhere on the internet.

22 pin connector
left to right / top to bottom

pin 1 large black wire with orange stripe (assumed ground for the amp)
pin 2 white with gray stripe (bus input)
pin 3 white with orange stripe (bus input)
pin 4 not used
pin 5 not used
pin 6 green with blue stripe (bus input)
pin 7 green with orange stripe (bus input)
pin 8 gray with blue stripe (bus input)
pin 9 gray with orange stripe (bus input)
pin 10 not used
pin 11 not used
pin 12 not used
pin 13 not used
pin 14 gray with light green stripe (RH dash speaker +)
pin 15 gray with dark green stripe (RH dash speaker -)
pin 16 gray with yellow stripe (LH dash speaker +)
pin 17 gray with no stripe (LH dash speaker -)
pin 18 green with brown stripe (LH headliner speaker -)
pin 19 green with blue stripe (LH headliner speaker +)
pin 20 gray with white stripe (sub -)
pin 21 green with white stripe (sub +)
pin 22 large yellow wire with red stripe (assumed power for the amp)


16 pin connector
left to right / top to bottom

pin 1 gray with purple stripe (LH front door -)
pin 2 gray with yellow stripe (LH front door +)
pin 3 green with purple stripe (RH front door -)
pin 4 green with yellow stripe (RH front door +)
pin 5 green with brown stripe (sub +)
pin 6 gray with brown stripe (sub -)
pin 7 gray with dark green stripe (LH rear door +)
pin 8 gray with light green stripe (LH rear door -)
pin 9 green with yellow stripe (RH rear door -)
pin 10 green with gray stripe (RH rear door +)
pin 11 gray with no stripe (center dash speaker, didn't check polarity...I left it stock)
pin 12 gray with orange stripe (center dash speaker, didn't check polarity.. I left it stock)
pin 13 yellow with gray stripe (RH headliner +)
pin 14 green with no stripe (RH headliner -)
pin 15 not used
pin 16 not used

Last edited by jcmcalli; 09-08-2013 at 11:12 PM.
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  #12  
Old 10-05-2013, 04:08 AM
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Just an update: had the amp, cap, and sub installed a few weeks ago. The tech tried first with an LOC tapped into the rear speakers after the factory amp. It sounded pretty good but was getting some signal interference from somewhere with a constant soft "beat" that was noticeable at low volume levels, almost like it was trying to ground itself out with the factory amp. He then moved the LOC to tie into the wires pre-factory amp as ttredraider78 suggested. Now it sounds so much better, both stronger and cleaner, with no signal problems or interference at all. Couldn't be happier with the amp and sub! Thanks again for the advice!
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Old 10-06-2013, 07:00 AM
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i want to add 3 amps to my system . so should i just bypass the factory amp altogether. i have (4) 3 1/2 infinity speakers 2 dash and 2 headliner (4)6x9 infinity speakers for the doors and then i have a fox box with 2 12" kickers for now( i am waiting on net audio to see if he can fit 2 12" L7 solobaric in his box for the ram.)
Has anyone done something like this yet ? this way i will keep the 8.4 screen. i also have the LC7. and i am just waiting for the lockpick for the 2013 harness to come out.
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Old 10-06-2013, 08:00 PM
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Glad I could help. I've had many systems and used to install for a living so I know how a system should sound. When I hooked up my amp and sub based on a high level signal using the factory factory wiring without a LOC, I knew it sounded right. Replacing amps integrated into the factory alpine system seems far too complicated and risky in my opinion.
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Old 05-09-2017, 11:26 PM
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Old thread... still relevant for my 2013 Ram R/T. This is a single cab to be clear which does NOT come with a factory sub.

So I followed the advice in the post by "jmcalli". Found the white 22 pin connector and the corresponding wires on pin 20/21. I ran those back to my LC2i and still have zero signal. Previously, I was tapped into the left and right rear speakers and had voltage up to the LC2i but no output whatsoever.

The post by "ttredraider78" from previous page showed a photo of the black 16 pin connector being tapped.

So which is it? I got this thing all set to go except for the feed signal. Any advice?
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Old 05-10-2017, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13RamRT View Post
Old thread... still relevant for my 2013 Ram R/T. This is a single cab to be clear which does NOT come with a factory sub.

So I followed the advice in the post by "jmcalli". Found the white 22 pin connector and the corresponding wires on pin 20/21. I ran those back to my LC2i and still have zero signal. Previously, I was tapped into the left and right rear speakers and had voltage up to the LC2i but no output whatsoever.

The post by "ttredraider78" from previous page showed a photo of the black 16 pin connector being tapped.

So which is it? I got this thing all set to go except for the feed signal. Any advice?
Those pins are of the premium system that has a sub. You want to tap into your rear speakers to feed your LOC
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Old 05-10-2017, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramdandy View Post
Those pins are of the premium system that has a sub. You want to tap into your rear speakers to feed your LOC
Welp, I had em tapped at the speakers and that didnt work. I'll try tapping the speaker wires of the black 16 pin connector next.
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Old 05-10-2017, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13RamRT View Post
Welp, I had em tapped at the speakers and that didnt work. I'll try tapping the speaker wires of the black 16 pin connector next.
What speakers did you tap them at?
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Old 05-10-2017, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramdandy View Post
What speakers did you tap them at?
I tried tapping the factory speaker wires for the 2 rear speakers. I verified polarity, ran the wiring to the LC2i, used a multimeter to confirm voltage was coming into the LC2i but nothing was coming out of the either of the 2 RCA jacks of the LC2i. For that run, I can only assume the tapped signal was not of sufficient low range to trigger the LC2i.


When I get my next chance with decent weather and having time to fuss with it again, I'll try tapping into the black 16 pin connector like "ttredraider78" did in his posted photo. Per the wiring scheme posted earlier by "jmcalli", If the pin outs match, I'll try using:
- pin 7 gray with dark green stripe (LH rear door +)
- pin 8 gray with light green stripe (LH rear door -)
- pin 9 green with yellow stripe (RH rear door -)
- pin 10 green with gray stripe (RH rear door +)
The goal on this attempt is to tap into a left/right pair of full range speaker wiring before it goes into the stock amp. Of course I have no rear doors but hopefully the wiring colors are the same regardless. Whenever I find the working solution, I'll post a photo(s) and a description of what I did.
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  #20  
Old 05-13-2017, 12:24 PM
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Talking Success

I tapped speaker wiring at stock amp the 16 pin black connector of the stock amp under the dash and above the parking brake. I really didn't use the pin numbering as much as wire colors which was spot on. Once again, I have a single cab and they did not come with subs from the factory.
- 16 Pin Black Connector on stock amp for Alpine RA4
-- pin 7 gray with dark green stripe (LH rear door +)(Single cab Left Rear +)
-- pin 8 gray with light green stripe (LH rear door -)(Single cab Left Rear -)
-- pin 9 green with yellow stripe (RH rear door -)(Single cab Right Rear +)
-- pin 10 green with gray stripe (RH rear door +)(Single cab Right Rear -)
I got the LC2i cranked up abit more than I figure it should be but all-n-all, the setup works good. My sub is a small sealed 10" Dual TBX-10 with builtin amp from Walmart positioned behind the passenger seat. Audiophiles can hate all they want but I think its ok.

Side note: Documentation that comes with the LC2i does not tell you but you will need to run a power and ground to the LC2i. It is an active device. The signal from the speaker wires switches it on to complete the circuit to send out to the sub. I was trying to run the LC2i without power and of course nothing worked heh.
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