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  #1  
Old 11-11-2013, 09:22 PM
jgt1969 jgt1969 is offline
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Exclamation 2001 5.9 magnum clattering noise

Hey guys, I'm new to the forum. Just wondering if anyone has had a clattering noise from the engine at 2000-2500 RPM's and if so what did you find. I've already done the intake pan with the Hughes engines aluminum pan, replaced the timing chain and gears (cover gasket was leaking, so why not) and i just replaced the lifters this weekend. The noise began shortly after I installed the Hughes intake pan and gasket set. There is no doubt in my mind that this noise is in the valve train, it sounds like #2 or #4 area. Any ideas would help greatly. Thanks in advance for your help.
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Old 11-16-2013, 01:59 PM
jgt1969 jgt1969 is offline
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Well, I have finally found the problem with the clattering noise. One of the arms on the lifter retainer spider had a crack in it! I've driven it about 150 miles since replacing and no more top end noise. Now this morning I hear a deeper noise, started the engine and it got louder as it heated up. Sounded like a rod but just to be sure I killed each cylinder separately until it stopped and low and behold its the #4 rod talking to me. I drained the oil and there are NO signs of metal shavings. Is a complete rebuild in store or can I just check with plastigage and replace all the rod bearings?
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Old 11-17-2013, 09:08 PM
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FLARAM FLARAM is offline
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If there is no wear damage to the crank journals (grooving/scoring) I'd just R&R the bearings rod and mains and go from there. They would have to be done anyway in an overhaul so your not out anything. We do it with diesels all the time.
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:44 AM
jgt1969 jgt1969 is offline
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Thanks for the input, I appreciate it. Gonna pull it out saturday and see just how bad it is.
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Old 01-25-2014, 09:40 AM
jgt1969 jgt1969 is offline
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Well, I ended up pulling the engine out and doing an inspection. I found rod bearings 3,4 & 5
pretty well wasted. # 4 was the worst of the bunch. So after a little figuring of the finances I decided to throw a reman engine at the engine bay. I installed an APS (Advanced Powertrain Solutions) engine on 12-22-2013, 133205 miles on the odometer. Man does it run like a champ! Well it did for 1005 miles! 3 days ago I went out to go to work, I was going to let it run for a few minutes to warm up since I'm in Chicago and it was -7 F. When I started the engine I noticed a ticking noise, looked at the dash and the check gauges light was on and oil pressure gauge was at "0".! I shut it down right away. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. My thought is that the oil was so cold and thick that when it started, the oil pump pressure relief got stuck. ?
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Old 01-29-2014, 01:38 PM
jgt1969 jgt1969 is offline
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ok, so I pulled the oil pan and the oil pump, when I removed the pump I noticed the intermediate oil pump shaft was broken off in the pump. I removed the broken piece from the pump, inserted an allen wrench and the pump turned without any problem.! I installed the new oil pump, I removed the distributor, took a picture of the orientation of the shaft gear in the distributor hole, installed the new shaft/gear assy, reassembled everything. I removed the ASD relay and fuel pump relay, cranked the engine over a few times to build oil pressure then reinstalled the relays. The engine fired up on the first turn of the key with no hesitation, most importantly, no noises. I've driven it 162 miles since installing the pump and intermediate shaft with no issues, but the question still bothering me is " why did the oil pump shaft break?" I know it was really cold out that morning -7 f, but I was using 5w30 oil. The oil couldn't have been that thick, could it? or did something in the pump lock up for a split second?
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:42 PM
jgt1969 jgt1969 is offline
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Well I finally got around to really looking at things since I installed the oil pump, (no garage in Chicago sux in the winter) I took the failed oil pump apart and inspected it. It only had 1005 miles on it, still spins no problem. put it in a can of oil and turned it, it pumps really well. I disassembled it and not a scratch on the gear. Sprayed it off and took a really good look and found the body of the pump is cracked at one of the mounting bolt holes. I took a straight edge to the mount surface and there is a low spot between the 2 bolt holes, so it must have cracked when I torqued it down. So I'm guessing that left the pump on a slightly different angle and made the pump shaft end fatigue and break from spinning so fast.
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Old 03-11-2014, 11:03 PM
Gen1dak Gen1dak is offline
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Seems a valid possibility. I do think the extreme cold complicated things. The crack/alignment issue was probably just enough to push it over the edge. Though, if I were in that sort of cold, I'd upgrade to the HD shaft used with high volume pumps.
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