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  #11  
Old 11-17-2013, 06:11 PM
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My 07 has 64K miles on it, is running great, and getting good mileage. I am debating changing the plugs myself and considering OE or NGK V Power, #5306. I wouldn't mind spending more money on plugs, considering the difficulty changing them, but most think there is no advantage. I just replaced the OE battery and starter.
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  #12  
Old 11-17-2013, 06:27 PM
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FireWire read the post that i did above, the one with the pix
my MPG were dropping off when i changed plugs the 2nd time
so i'll let you decide which is best for you
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  #13  
Old 11-18-2013, 11:53 AM
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I can't believe how much time I have spent researching spark plugs for my truck. NGK's web site shows a different plug for later, 2010 vs 2007, applications. There are probably different requirements, heat range ?, for a 390 HP 5.7 than a 345 HP 5.7. The NGK V power plugs are a step above OE/Standard plugs. The Laser plugs have an iridium tip and platinum base. The iridium IX are the most expensive and possibly the best and longest lasting. Police cars idle a lot and maybe their plugs are hotter burning to prevent fouling, just a guess. The police plugs number ends in an E and the 2010 5.7 plug ends in a C, both before the -11. I think I may buy a small torque wrench and install them myself.
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  #14  
Old 11-18-2013, 12:27 PM
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Here is a little more info I obtained from NGK's web site. They say the Iridium IX plugs will give 40-50 K miles and that the Iridium Laser plugs will give 90-100K miles. They say the iridium tips plugs do not have a platinum base and the base wears out first. The Iridium Laser plugs have a iridium tip and platinum base. NGK calls the Laser plugs OE. I thought the OE were copper. The Iridium IX plugs cost more than the Laser plugs. If it wasn't such a PITA to change these plugs, I wouldn't be so concerned about the plug choice. I also need to think about how much longer I am going to keep this truck. Over many years and vehicles I have found that if I special order a vehicle, and get exactly what I want, I am happier and keep the vehicle a lot longer, I've had this truck for 6 years now, since new.
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  #15  
Old 11-21-2013, 01:40 AM
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Personally, I want to keep it simple. OEM: NGK 92174. 16 of them for anywhere from $65-80 if you do the proper research for the best price (I found them cheap on ebay). The maintenance schedule calls for every 32k miles or certain time period (I forgot how long), whichever comes first. So, you can decide.
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  #16  
Old 11-24-2013, 07:54 PM
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Just replaced mine with NGK 92174 from Rock Auto for a total of 65.57 delivered, best price around. They are Copper Core Plugs that are recommended for our vehicle's.
They also offer the best performance since copper conducts better than Iridium or platinum. The only down side is that both Iridium and Platinum last longer. Iridium the longest. So the stock plugs offer the best performance, but don't last as long.
Took me about 2 1/2 hours to replace them myself and I'm good with tools.
I ended up using a 3/8" drive flex head ratchet, 2-2 1/2" extensions, 1-6" extension, 1-swivel and a 5/8" magnetic socket, Anti-Seize compound for the threads and Dielectric grease for the Coil Plug insulators.
The reason for the 2-3" extensions, made it easier near the firewall. Sometimes the 6" extension is too long.
I had to pull the ECU Connectors off and move the heater hoses to get at plug #6 and 8. PM me if you need any more info.
Good Luck
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  #17  
Old 11-24-2013, 10:00 PM
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Check this out. Makes good points:
http://www.carsdirect.com/car-repair...op-performance
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  #18  
Old 11-26-2013, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dancianne View Post
There are no "special" spark plugs which would improve performance or gas mileage over the OEM's. For sure if there were such a thing, all automotive makers would already be using them in order to remain competitive. So, point is, the OEM's are the special ones and best you can buy. Factory engineers have already figured out which plugs are the optimum choice for every vehicle, and they are not going to shave performance to save a dollar or two because that would hurt vehicle sales. On a related subject, I do not advocate do-it-yourself plug changes unless you are both experienced and have the proper torque wrench. Given today's engine metals, tolerances, and do so at cold settings, I believe that it is imperative to be right on with factory specifications. Yes, dealer service charges are outrageous and over priced, but taking into account the life of modern plug technology, the cost is virtually nothing on a per mile basis. Gone are the days of yore when cylinder heads were made of iron and all one needed were a wrench and a 'feel' for what was about right.
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Heh, to a point, you are correct. I still do most of my own basic repairs/maintenance on my own vehicles without a TQ wrench. Is it required? not really...not for spark plugs. Your dealer tech doesn't use one either. trust me, I know. I use TQ Wrenches for lugnuts, head bolts, rod and main bearing caps, transmission and oil pain bolts, and anything to do with internals like gears, clutches or tranny work. Other than that, its just German Spec. That would be "Gudentight". I have yet to use a TQ wrench on my ford escort. Even the crankshaft pulley from when I did the timing belt just got cranked till it was tight.
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  #19  
Old 11-27-2013, 01:21 AM
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After reading these posts for time to time my truck got to 32,000 mi.
Changing wasn't that bad. Just bought the Champion Copper Core, some Anti-Sieze, and a good Feeler Gauge.
Only three of them that came out, looked like it was time to replace.
But man did it smooth out my idle. Can't even tell the truck is running at the stop light. Wife even noticed it smoother.
39.00 Bucks after tax and it runs great.
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  #20  
Old 11-27-2013, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyofOne View Post
Heh, to a point, you are correct. I still do most of my own basic repairs/maintenance on my own vehicles without a TQ wrench. Is it required? not really...not for spark plugs. Your dealer tech doesn't use one either. trust me, I know. I use TQ Wrenches for lugnuts, head bolts, rod and main bearing caps, transmission and oil pain bolts, and anything to do with internals like gears, clutches or tranny work. Other than that, its just German Spec. That would be "Gudentight". I have yet to use a TQ wrench on my ford escort. Even the crankshaft pulley from when I did the timing belt just got cranked till it was tight.
I fess up to applying the Gudentight spec on the plugs in my lawn care equipment, but am concerned that a vehicle dealer's service department may not be following factory spec exactly to the letter.
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