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Electrical 3rd Gen Dodge Ram Electrical Problems and Questions.


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  #1  
Old 12-19-2013, 10:29 PM
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So I bought two of those LED strips from autozone. I had them in my durango and I like the glow they put out. Anyways, I put them under the dash on my drivers and passenger side. Wired them up anddddd they no worky. I wire the negative and positive of the two together. Then I routed the positive to the White/Light Green wire on the headlight switch(which I read was the parking lights). Then I wired the negative to the Black/yellow wire on the 12v outlet. So I'm not sure where I'm going wrong on these.

This one is connected to the headlight switch. (positive)


And this one is connected to the 12v plug (negative)


This is connecting the passenger side to the driver side. Passenger side didn't quite reach so I had to add some extra wire. Not sure if the difference in the wire size is the problem or not.
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Old 12-20-2013, 08:59 AM
chrisnarron chrisnarron is offline
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I would start with the basics. Fisrt did you tes them out of the box? Put them strait to a 12 volt source such as the bettery but with a 1 amp fuse in line on the positive. If they do I deed work then you have 1 of two problems. No ground or no hot. Do you have a meter or atleast a test ligjt? If not I would recommend buying them. It is one of my most used tools when working with trucks. If you do have a meter you can set it to read continuity. All this means is that there is a path for voltagr to travel. Most meters beep when you touch the two leads togather. So what you can do is turn it on and put it on your ground wire for your lights and then put it too a known chasis ground like a cab bought or the frame that holds yiur dash up.if you have continuity there then you habe a good ground. If you have a good groundbthen you should test for positvie. Take your meter and go from your newly verified ground to where you taped positive on. Turn your park lights on andsee if you have voltage. If you do not then you are tied into the wrong wire. Use your meter to find the correct wire. I do not thank that your issues stem fromwire size. If that wad the problem they would come on but be dim. Typically leds take very little power to run.
If you do not have a meter butd you do have a test light then make sure you have agood ground. Like put a ring terminal on your ground wires and put it under a bolt or run it back to the battery. Then use the test light to verify power on the wire you tied in to behid the switch. Another thing to check is that you really crimped those connectors good and that you used the right size. If the connector is not sizde right then It want break through the insulation on the head light wire and you want get power. Sorry for the typos I'm on a phone
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Old 12-20-2013, 09:45 AM
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It came with little battery pack on it so you could push the button and test to see if you like it so yes they do work. I will have to borrow my buddies test light then and make sure everything is in working order. I shall do the things you said and let you know how it turned out! Thank you for the help man
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Old 12-27-2013, 07:41 PM
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If you put a DVOM on the W/LG wire you should not get 12 volts. It is a negative signal wire to the cluster and then to the brain to signal it to turn the lights on. Many things on these trucks are ground side switched and it makes it a pain to wire aftermarket things that would otherwise be simple. If you want it to come on with your park lights, you need to use the wire from the switch as the negative wire for a relay coil and use the relay to switch your LEDs (am I losing you? lol) You will only need to use 4 of the pins on a relay. connect:
pin 85 to 12v+
Pin 86 to the - park light wire (W/LG)
Pin 30 to 12v+
Pin 87 to the Power from your LED lights
I would use a ring terminal on the ground for the lights and connect it to a ground stud behind the kick panel, not another wire. The less you have to splice the easier it is, and that eliminates the guess work of testing wires to find a good ground. Please make sure you fuse everything! I have seen too many car fires because people didn't use the proper size fuse. (Proper is 1.5 times the amp draw of the circuit)

Hope this helps you!
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Old 12-27-2013, 07:45 PM
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also, try to stay away from the scotch lock type connectors ( the insulation piercing ones) many times you won't get a good connection with that type of connector, and they tend to damage wires and of course the insulation. I recommend solder and heat shrinking everything and you will never have a problem out of it. If that is not doable, butt connectors are the next best thing.
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