I just ordered a truck friday, and on my order sheet it lists a bunch of figures I've decrypted (I know, I'm smart like that)
2014 3500 Longhorn CC/4x4/CTD
MSRP - 64,495
FWP (assume invoice) - 59,685
HB (assume holdback) - 1929
FFP (assume friends & family plan) - 59,163
EP (assume employee pricing) - 56,776
I negotiated a deal to pay (no more than) 54,500. if incentives are better when it shows up - it may be Dodge Truck Month if I get real lucky - that will go cheaper. I *believe* I got 3500 in rebates/bonuses on my 54,500 figure (it's included in that 54,500).
one of the things that really helped me - I went to edmunds.com, built the vehicle I wanted, and figured out the invoice price of what it would cost (edmunds is inaccurate for longhorn trim, however). I then shopped around and looked online at very similar trucks to the build I wanted, and saw what dealers were selling them for. I don't think I came across anyone selling cheaper than Dennis Dillon out of Boise, Idaho - his prices are really rock bottom.
after I knew what the truck was worth, and roughly how much 'bonus' the dealership had (holdback, etc), I set in my mind a bottom-line figure I was willing to pay. THEN - and only then - did I go to the local dealer to negotiate, build, and order. Going in with a figure you are willing to pay makes the entire process so much easier. You don't even have to tell the salesman what that figure is - it's just the figure to keep you in check. the hard part - sticking to that figure
from my experience, EP might have gotten me a slightly better deal, IF I could get all the rebates etc with it. but if EP cuts out rebates - it's better to negotiate the deal and include those. Many times the incentives and rebates are over 3k, especially on the 60k trucks