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  #21  
Old 01-28-2014, 01:36 PM
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Ram357, you make a good point. I do have a crazy ex but I don't think she would go this far this many times.

GT, I purchased the wheel and tire package online from a site. I guess it was one of those things where if it looks to good to be true it probably is.

I'm headed to work, I'll keep you guys posted as to what happens.

Oh yeah, the shop recommended 110 lbs-ft torque for the lugs. Sound about right?
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  #22  
Old 01-28-2014, 08:39 PM
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I re-torque mine around 130-135 ft/lb.


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  #23  
Old 01-28-2014, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warlock III View Post
Hub-Centric:

Nearly all OEM Wheels are designed to be hub-centric. The automaker designs an OEM wheel to fit on a certain car or range of cars. The center bore of the wheel is sized to fit perfectly onto the axle of that car. This is a hub-centric connection, as the wheel is centered by it's connection to the axle hub. The lugnuts hold the wheel firmly to the mounting plate, but it is the wheel-to-axle connection that actually holds the weight of the car. This is quite an important distinction, as the lugnuts are designed to handle lateral forces that push the wheel away from the mounting plate. The forces that the hub and center bore connection are designed to withstand – the weight of the car forcing downward and impacts forcing upward – are at right angles to the forces that the lugnuts are designed for.

Lug-Centric:

Hub diameter is therefore an extremely important consideration when fitting new wheels, whether OEM or aftermarket. If the hub diameter is smaller that the axle, the wheel will simply not fit. Most aftermarket wheels are therefore made with larger hub diameters to ensure that they will fit on a wide range of cars. This means that when the wheel is installed, there will most likely be a space between the axle and the hub instead of a firm contact. The wheel is therefore lug-centric, as the wheel is centered by the lugs rather than by the hub. There are some people who will say that driving on lug-centric wheels doesn't really matter as long as the lugnuts are the self-centering cone type, as they will adequately center the wheel. These people are wrong. Driving on lug-centric wheels means that any impact will apply shear force to the lug studs, forces at 90 degrees to those the studs are designed to handle. This can cause the lug studs to bend, leading to a vibration in the car as the wheel slips around on the mounting plate, and possibly damaging the wheel's center bore if it has enough play to contact the axle. To prevent this kind of thing, aftermarket wheels will usually need hub-centric spacers, small rings of metal or plastic made with various inside and outside diameters so as to fit inside the wheel hub and then fit over the axle, making a lug-centric fitment into a hub-centric one. Some aftermarket wheel makers advertise that all of their wheels are in fact hub-centric – what this means is that they provide the proper spacers for the customer's car, not that they custom-make their wheels for the many hub diameters out there. Most good wheel retailers, online or otherwise, will provide the correct spacers as part of the fitment package. If you do need to shop for a set, try one of the better online stores. In Real Life, most tire retailers will also either carry spacers or will know who does. Do not make the mistake of thinking that spacers are optional equipment, or that a retailer is trying to upsell you on some useless accessories. Hub-centric spacers are actually about as necessary for aftermarket wheels as lugnuts are. Keep the proper fitment for your wheels and you'll be driving happy for a good long time.
Well said and very informative. I recently installed new wheels and didn't install the hubcentric spacers. The manufacture informed that they're not required, but after researching the matter I decided to removed the wheels and install them... While I did not have any immediate issues, it is well documented that vibration and lug failure could occurs without the spacers. I suspect that this may be the OP's problem.
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Last edited by SteelTownStang; 01-28-2014 at 09:09 PM.
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  #24  
Old 01-28-2014, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HOOAHHemi View Post
Thanks for the help again. I replaced the studs on the driver side today with brand new studs and lug nuts. Made sure they were on and torqued correctly. We will see what happens. BremboD, it did only happen on the front wheels (knock on wood). Warlock and Ram357, thank you for the assistance and insight as to why this could be happening. I may look into the hub centric spacer just as a precaution. I'll go back and check them every 100 miles and hopefully it was just the rusted old wheel studs that sucked ass and I will be good from here.
Did you removed the hub clips... ? They're attached to the lugs to hold the hub in place during assembly. If they're not removed, then most aftermarket wheels will not properly seat against the hub.
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  #25  
Old 01-29-2014, 05:04 PM
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STStang - Yeah the hub clips were removed and I ordered hub centric rings. So far everything is looking good this time around.

Ram357 - If I start to notice them loosening themselves again I will bump the torque up a bit.
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Old 01-29-2014, 05:57 PM
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I certainly cannot add anything here other than to say that I am more educated after reading this thread. I now know what to watch for when I'm ready for aftermarket wheels.
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