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Nitrous Discussion Questions and Answers regarding adding Nitrous Oxide to your Dodge Ram.


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  #1  
Old 02-06-2014, 06:05 PM
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Default Hidden nitrous system and bottle!

Where do you hide your bottle? I kind of want to put mine in the cab behind the seats but then I need to drill a hole through the floor and run a blow down tube or else the track won't let me pass tech inspection. I don't really want to drill a hole through the floor of my new truck.

I was thinking of putting it in the bed up near the cab and since I'm getting a tonneau cover it won't be super noticeable. I've also thought about getting really sneaky and mounting it under the bed. That would be a pain to get it out for refills though.

I also want to hide the controller low in the engine bay and put rubber hose over the nitrous lines to make it look like its for emissions or pcv hose. Sneaky lol. If I planned on keeping the stock intake I could hide the nozzle better.

Where do you guys mount your bottles? Got any pics? Anyone else sneaky and have a hidden or hard to find setup?
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Last edited by USAF Long; 02-06-2014 at 06:26 PM.
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Old 02-06-2014, 06:28 PM
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Just curious, why do you want to be so sneaky?
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Old 02-06-2014, 09:34 PM
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My bottle was mounted on the inner wheel well of the bed with my tonneau covering it, nobody knew I had nitrous unless I had the cover rolled forward. If you mounted it under the bed then you'd want a shield, you never know when a rock can kick up into the cylinder, you won't puncture it, but you can definitely weaken the structure and overtime can have a cylinder failure. I've seen it happen with breathing air systems left exposed to the elements.

You may want to look into the throttle plate from Nitrous Outlet, you don't have the obvious nozzle in the intake tube, the plate can be clocked however you want so the lines will not be visible, and the looming is a good idea for further coverage. A good mounting place for the control box/solenoids is behind the battery tray next to the firewall or right up at the front grill cross member where there's a rubber cap on the driver's side corner.
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:15 AM
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If I mount it under the bed I'd also have to get the electric bottle valve and a bottle heater.

I saw the plate kits from nitrous outlet but I wasnt sure what diameter to order since i don't know the true diameter of the intake manifold throttle body opening. I want to put a ported 87mm throttle body on my truck but I know the base isn't larger and the porting tapers.

I want to be sneaky because I race the truck from time to time and sometimes money is involved and no one tells you what they have so why should I?
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:57 PM
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You want the 80mm plate. Also, if you're serious about a nitrous kit, then I'd look at the Nano kit to add to your system. I've seen it run twice now and with a standard kit w/ bottle heater you can see the pressure drop halfway down the track and you loose about 1/2 your nitrous hp. The Nano kit allows you to run full pressure all the way down the track because it pumps nitrogen or compressed air into the nitrous tank to keep it at pressure rather than trying to heat the cylinder.
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Old 02-17-2014, 07:25 AM
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Very good information like always CdnoilRAM's Mind posting some pictures of your setup. I may have to pick your brain later on this subject.
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Old 02-17-2014, 08:53 AM
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some bad info here, you do NOt lose psi in a nitrous bottle half way down a run unless your running out of nitrous. most racers have a few bottles with them and run a fresh bottle. a bottle heater keeps the psi up. On the street a 10lb bottle will last for a lot of passes. On my fairlane I have it setup with a 10lb tank in the trunk with a bottle heater. I have a psi gauge in my car. If im out looking for trouble I leave the bottle heater on so the psi is topped out and ready to go, after that I got a fuel psi cut off(no n2o under 5psi),a 2 way rpm switch(no n2o under 2,000rpm and no n2o over 7,000 rpm) then to a wot carb switch then to a button on the shifter. So inturn I must have the car floored and punch the button in the car for the fun juice.
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Old 02-17-2014, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bartlett View Post
some bad info here, you do NOt lose psi in a nitrous bottle half way down a run unless your running out of nitrous. most racers have a few bottles with them and run a fresh bottle. a bottle heater keeps the psi up. On the street a 10lb bottle will last for a lot of passes. On my fairlane I have it setup with a 10lb tank in the trunk with a bottle heater. I have a psi gauge in my car. If im out looking for trouble I leave the bottle heater on so the psi is topped out and ready to go, after that I got a fuel psi cut off(no n2o under 5psi),a 2 way rpm switch(no n2o under 2,000rpm and no n2o over 7,000 rpm) then to a wot carb switch then to a button on the shifter. So inturn I must have the car floored and punch the button in the car for the fun juice.
When any compressed cylinder expends to a larger volume its contents it will cool down. In the case of nitrous, when you are spraying you are flowing the liquid contents out of the cylinder which means the liquid now has to change into gas form in the cylinder to maintain volume. Because the liquid changes states to gas form in a restricted volume the gas pulls heat from the surroundings (the observed cooling effect) which in turn decreases the volume of the gas as the gas is cooled by the surroundings... decreasing the pressure. That's why there's a layer of frost on the cylinder after every one of my runs, even with the bottle heater running.

In a 1/4 mile I would see a 150-200psi drop on the gauge by the end of the run because of the cooling effects, now this generally isn't an issue if you start around 1100psi (max pressure my solenoids like to operate at) but running a 125 shot I would get a maximum of 4 runs out of a 10lb bottle before the pressure drop was taking it below 700psi where it was not effectively flowing the liquid nitrous anymore and I would have to change bottles. When we put the cylinders on the weigh scale they are all normally 1/2 full. The reason I like the NANO system is because I've seen bottles go down a 1/2 mile track with ZERO pressure drop because the nitrogen/air being pumped in is off setting the normal pressure drop from the cooling effect and is maintaining the head pressure. Not to mention they can effectively push up to 90% of the liquid nitrous out of the cylinder; if you fill your own cylinders this isn't an issue, but if you pay to fill them, most places charge $100 regardless of the amount put in.
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Last edited by CdnoilRAM; 02-17-2014 at 05:02 PM.
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Old 02-19-2014, 09:18 PM
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$100 !!!! LMAOOOO I hope your kidding right ? I pay $60 for a mother bottle fill and I sell it local for $5 a pound .... $50 a 10lb and on average over fill a good 1/2-1lb for them ...you getting butt raped if your paying $100 for a 10lb fill ...

you also have HUGE problems if you can only get 4 1/4 mile runs on a 10lb bottle with a 100shot ..

average is 7/8 1/4 mile runs on a 100 shot before 900psi or less.
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Old 06-29-2014, 01:33 AM
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He's talking $100 Canadian.

So I got my tonneau cover. Next up is a tuner, and then I'm going to get a nitrous kit. I'll put the bottle in the bed but under the hood I plan to make it tough to tell the truck has a kit on it.
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