There we go!
That Looks a little better eh?
I took some measurements for mounting depth too. It looks like you have 2.5" to plastic that holds the window track, and 3.5" to the window track itself, but be careful that plastic gets in the way of most large magnets.
I'll start with the HU.
I have the center console, so the first thing that needs to be removed is the chrome trim ring around the shifter. This thing is a b**ch to get out, so be patient and have a good set of plastic pry tools.
Next the screws come out. There are 5 total. Two in the front cubby, under the rubber liner.
Two under the rubber at the top of the center under the rubber liner that says Dodge.
And one behind the power outlet cover.
Next you’re ready to start taking the center off. At this point everything is held on with Push clips so it just pulls off. Start with the center console cover.
And then the cover comes off of the front. Start at the top, and work your way down as the clips pull out. There are various wire connections on the back for your HVAC, tow/haul, inverter, and other things. I was able to move the cover far enough to work with only a few wires unplugged.
I didn’t get a shot of the front cover pulled, or the screws that hold the HU in but they’re pretty self explanatory. Once you pull the plugs on the old HU out the other one just goes back in plug and play.
Reverse the order to put it all back together.
Next the door speakers.
Start by taking the door panels off, I’ve marked everything in the picture below.
A – 6 push rivets. Back the screw out with a torx driver, and pop the inserts out
B – Use a pry tool to pop the cover off, remove the Philips screw in handle, and the surround pops out from the end closest the door hinge
C – Use a pry tool to lift the lock panel out, and unplug the connector
D – This cover just pops off
After all of this the door just lifts up, and out.
The rear door is pretty well the same except there are 5 push rivets instead of 6
At this point you’ll see the speakers. Remove the 4 screws and unplug them.
The magnet on my speakers was big enough that it hit the plastic that holds the window track, so I flipped the spacers onto the back side of the speaker.
When I was looking online I found that there were two different ways of wiring the speakers. Some said the polarity was one way with the alpine package, and reversed without. It was pretty confusing so I decided to check it myself. I hooked a 5v source to the speaker and switched the wires until the cone popped outward. I marked the polarity on the terminal for future reference. (You can use a 9v battery instead of a 5v source, just touch it to the terminals if the cone pops in switch it around, and there’s your +-)
In my case I didn’t want to use crimp on terminals on the wiring in the door (in case one of the crimps wasn’t tight enough), or drag an extension cord with my soldering iron to the driveway so I built short pigtails using the factory terminals that I yanked off the POS stock speakers.
I put foam weather stripping on both sides of the spacer, and screwed them back into the door. At this point I realised that one of my fears came true. With the spacers installed, the protruding tweeters stuck out too far and were touching the door panels. So I warmed the speaker mesh in the door with a heat gun, and found a dead blow hammer that kind of matched the contour of the 6x9 and bulged it out a little. I could have just slapped the panels back on and let them stretch, but I was afraid the speaker mesh would turn white when it stretched.
The door panels go back on by lining up the panel a couple of inches above where it should go, and pushing down (remember to put the lock knob back through its hole, and pull the lock and window control plugs through their hole before you put it on)
Now that everything is in I defiantly notice that the 3.5”ers thin the dash suck, so I think they’re going to be next.