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Custom Dodge Ram Interior and Exterior Lighting HID - HALO - LED LIGHTING - UNDERBODY LIGHTING - TINTED/SMOKED/PAINTED TAILS - ETC.


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  #11  
Old 03-06-2014, 07:35 AM
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I figured I would quote the original message since it was sent to my email, got to keep the "wise guy" comment on there. Just goes to show why it's not worth helping some people.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Monster5601 View Post
You're not reading... I want an all-in-one solution, no harness, no external capacitor, and no external loading resistor, the equates to;

All in-one-ballast + HID bulb = light

For example:
http://www.ultrahid.com/canbusballast.html

Get it wise guy?
So what I gather, you want to plug in the ballast and bulbs, and go. Do you realize the wire harness is not just to keep errors from coming up? It is recommended to put a wire harness on all HID upgrades. It protects the electrical system in automobiles. Companies came up with a specific Mopar harness to offer an all in one solution.
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  #12  
Old 03-06-2014, 08:55 AM
chuck2417 chuck2417 is offline
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a wiring harness for a 2013/2014 as compared to a 2011/2012 are not the same. For the older rams with the quad headlights you could get away with just wiring a basic wiring harness and a capacitor. Which means you have a small list of parts to worry about being installed correctly and functioning. Now with the new rams you can't get away with leaving one side unplugged without a bulb out warning, Also a capacitor doesn't just work, you also need a resistor on the drivers side two. That means your adding 3 parts (2 resistors and a splitter) and 3 grounds. The more parts you add the more than can go wrong and the more complicated it get. The wiring harness is the safest way, but for the 2013's it's also the most complicated and requires the most troubleshooting.
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  #13  
Old 03-06-2014, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck2417 View Post
a wiring harness for a 2013/2014 as compared to a 2011/2012 are not the same. For the older rams with the quad headlights you could get away with just wiring a basic wiring harness and a capacitor. Which means you have a small list of parts to worry about being installed correctly and functioning. Now with the new rams you can't get away with leaving one side unplugged without a bulb out warning, Also a capacitor doesn't just work, you also need a resistor on the drivers side two. That means your adding 3 parts (2 resistors and a splitter) and 3 grounds. The more parts you add the more than can go wrong and the more complicated it get. The wiring harness is the safest way, but for the 2013's it's also the most complicated and requires the most troubleshooting.
Wow, what a PITA. Great info right here.
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  #14  
Old 03-06-2014, 11:53 AM
chuck2417 chuck2417 is offline
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that's why you see many turning to canbus ballasts or cancellor (canbus harness) for the projectors. The truck are turning into huge pains to install HID's or LED's. Knowing what I know now I would have looked closer at the ford... I know how bad that sounds...
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Old 03-06-2014, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MotoAce51 View Post
It is recommended to put a wire harness on all HID upgrades. It protects the electrical system in automobiles.
Protect the electrical system from what?

Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck2417 View Post
that's why you see many turning to canbus ballasts or cancellor (canbus harness) for the projectors. The truck are turning into huge pains to install HID's or LED's. Knowing what I know now I would have looked closer at the ford... I know how bad that sounds...
How many here know what a CANbus is? Or why they call it (inappropriately) CANbus?

There is more miss-information spewing around here than I can shack a stick at.

If anyone is interested, I can explain it and once you understand it, it will be rather simplistic and easy to tackle.
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  #16  
Old 03-06-2014, 08:55 PM
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Then let's hear it. Instead of saying everyone's wrong and you know what's right without explaining anything, how about explain and straighten things out. That way everyone learns and can give better advice in the future. Seems like a no brainer.
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  #17  
Old 03-06-2014, 11:29 PM
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Try this:

http://brightsourcehid.com/store/ Take a look at their kits for 2013/14, very pricey but they "seem" to have it figured out.
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  #18  
Old 03-07-2014, 09:13 AM
chuck2417 chuck2417 is offline
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CANbus is the network system that monitors everything. Think of it as a network allowing the truck to talk to itself. Things like ABS, power windows, engine management etc. When people talk about canbus harnesses, warning cancellors it's usually the same thing. Essentially what most of them are is simply a capacitor. Most people use the term loosly because it's simpler than sayin the vehicle bus system which monitors the headlights senses that there isn't sufficient energy being used by the bulb so it causes errors. The bus system will try to wake up the bulb as it thinks it's dead so it can send pulsating signals to try and get the bulb working again. It will also give you that error on your dash saying your headlight is out. That's what most people are referring to when they mention canbus. From what I understand about vehicle electronics and systems (which isn't much) that is what the system does. The only reason I did reading on this in the past was because I want HIDs in my truck (had them in all other vehicles).

CAN = controller area network
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  #19  
Old 03-07-2014, 12:44 PM
Monster5601 Monster5601 is offline
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What is a CAN bus, Wikipedia describes it as a “CAN bus (for controller area network) is a vehicle bus standard designed to allow microcontrollers and devices to communicate with each other within a vehicle without a host computer.” There is no type of network communication between any vehicle computer and a headlamp bulb. I have not been successful discovering why a bulb out detection circuit is often called a CAN-bus. If anyone knows please tell me.

In modern vehicle electrical architectures, how does a headlamp bulb light. The lamp circuit is controlled typically, by the BCM (body control module) through a FET device (field effect transistor), see attachment 1 for a typical circuit and reference to the part. These are also fuse-less circuits since the FET can detect short circuits albeit they do have a short circuit life count of around 300 shorts. When the short circuit count is hit, the repair is replacement. The FET can also detect open circuits and using pulse width modulation can measure the circuit load during off times, aka: bulb out detection.

Pulse width modulation or PWM (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width modulation) is a method to quickly turn on and off a lamp. Time is divided into periods and each period has an off and on time, time granularity is typically in milliseconds. During the off time, the FET can measure the circuit load resistance allowing it to see if the bulb is burned out.

The headlamp circuits on our RAM’s use a FET circuit that has the ability to detect a bulb out by measuring the load resistance during PWM off times and able to detect open and short circuits. The side effects when switching to a HID lighting system are as follows.
Bulb out warning.
The HID ballast does not offer the load of a halogen bulb so during the PWM off times when the FET checks for a load, none is there. To correct the false bulb out message a loading resistor of four to six ohms is use to look like a halogen bulb to the FET circuit.

HID flickering.
The FET headlamp circuit uses PWM which is on and off time, thus interrupting the current flow to the HID ballast causing the HID lamp flickering. To offset this, a capacitor can be used to supply power to the ballast during the PWM off times. Typical value would be 4,700uf at 35 volts, an easy to find value at any Radio Shack store.

Now that the functionality is understood on with my rant, the HID wiring harness. The typical 35 watt HID lighting module pulls less power than the halogen it is replacing. Current in rush is also less than a halogen bulb. Where I work we develop OEM HID systems and I asked the engineers what the power characteristics are for the OEM HIDs. I was told 2.0 amps nominal (see picture in attachment 2) compared to a halogen which ranges from 3.9 to 4.7 amps. The only reason why a HID lighting harness is needed is to accommodate the loading resistor and capacitor, no other reason outside of not understanding how the system works and its power requirements.

I’ve had a bad experience with my wiring harness; first the inline fuse holder disintegrated causing an outage. Next the relay failed knocking out the passenger side headlamp. Then another relay failure knocking out both of the headlamps. Now the wire that triggers the relay from the OEM harness broke off. I guess my experience is unique because no one else has such bad luck. There are several more point connections in the harness that could fail so my quest is to get rid of the harness and find ballasts that incorporate the loading resistor and capacitor. This is the reason I am looking for a recommendation of an all-in-one ballast.
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  #20  
Old 03-07-2014, 03:23 PM
VeghTheHun VeghTheHun is offline
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Well I am not sure what all the fuss is about.. I have a 2010 ram sport, which I just swapped 2013 sport projectors into, with the wiring harness of course. I used my cheap $35 VVME HID kit with 9005 style bulbs and they fit in just fine. Also the HIDs work just fine, nice and bright. No flickering nothing. I do not have a Relay Harness, No Capacitor,No Resistor, NO CANbus kit. Just a simple HID kit and it works awesome! Now, I am still using the standard Halogen High beam bulb as I am in Canada and have to use DRLs. But I figured the amount I turn my high beams on the hell with it.
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