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Custom Chassis - Drive Line - Suspension - Wheels and Tires - LOWERING or STANDARD Discuss anything related to Custom Dodge Ram Wheels, Tires, Brakes, Suspension Mods, Chassis Mods and Tuning, Towing options, Driveline, Differentials, Sway Bars, Lowering Springs, Strut Braces, etc.


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  #11  
Old 01-18-2010, 12:27 PM
RamTech's Avatar
RamTech RamTech is offline
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Location: Johnson City, TN
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Vehicle: 2004 Dakota Club Cab 4X4
Trim Level: SXT
Color: Bright Silver
Engine: 2002-2008 226ci (3.7L) Magnum/PowerTech V6 215hp 235lb/ft
Rep Power: 14
Rep:1824
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I must have punched up the wrong year when I did a TSB search. My apologies for that. The repair procedure is posted below.

REPAIR PROCEDURE:
1. Inspect the front brakes for any signs of abnormal wear or damage. Repair as
necessary.
2. Resurface the front brake rotors with a DaimlerChrylsler approved on-car brake lathe.
If an on-car lathe is not available at the dealership, the rotor resurfacing must be sublet
to a facility with an approved on car lathe.
3. Remove the calipers.
4. Clean the caliper adapter and lubricate the adapter and anti-rattle springs with
MOPAR brake grease.
5. Install new calipers, p/n's 05134582AB and 05134583AB.
6. Replace the front pads and anti-rattle springs with the appropriate part number listed in
the Parts Required Section above.
7. Bleed the system.
8. Mark one wheel stud on each side with a dab of paint or suitable marker.
NOTE: Wheel stud torque is critical to the success of the repair. the following
procedure is intended to identify excessive rotor distortion which could be
caused by improper wheel stud torque.
9. Install the wheel and pre-tighten the lug nuts in a cross pattern to: 70 Nm (50 ft. lbs.)
then final the lug nuts in a cross pattern to: **183 Nm (135 ft. lbs.)** and mark the
wheel at the same location as the marked wheel stud.
10. Set up a dial indicator to measure mounted rotor runout . Place the dial indicator
plunger against the inner machined rotor face, visible between the brake caliper and
the front splash shield(
Fig. 1). Rotate the wheel and tire assembly two turns and take
runout measurement. If the measurement is less than .050 mm (.002 in.) no further
action is required. If the measurement is greater than .050 mm (.002 in.) remove the
lug nuts and relocate the wheel one stud clockwise, tighten the lug nuts as described
in step 6 and check the runout again. Do not remove any brake parts. Repeat step 7
for each wheel location until you achieve the lowest mounted runout. Minimum

mounted rotor runout will be achieved by moving the wheel, not the rotor.
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  #12  
Old 01-18-2010, 01:49 PM
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ThomasRam ThomasRam is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: in the Netherlands
Age: 30
Posts: 33
Gender: Male
Vehicle: Dodge Ram 2003 4,7
Trim Level: SLT Lone Star
Color: white white white
Engine: 2002-2007 287ci (4.7L) PowerTech V8 235hp 295lb/ft
Rep Power: 0
Rep:28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Remerson228 View Post
I must have punched up the wrong year when I did a TSB search. My apologies for that. The repair procedure is posted below.

REPAIR PROCEDURE:
1. Inspect the front brakes for any signs of abnormal wear or damage. Repair as
necessary.
2. Resurface the front brake rotors with a DaimlerChrylsler approved on-car brake lathe.
If an on-car lathe is not available at the dealership, the rotor resurfacing must be sublet
to a facility with an approved on car lathe.
3. Remove the calipers.
4. Clean the caliper adapter and lubricate the adapter and anti-rattle springs with
MOPAR brake grease.
5. Install new calipers, p/n's 05134582AB and 05134583AB.
6. Replace the front pads and anti-rattle springs with the appropriate part number listed in
the Parts Required Section above.
7. Bleed the system.
8. Mark one wheel stud on each side with a dab of paint or suitable marker.
NOTE: Wheel stud torque is critical to the success of the repair. the following
procedure is intended to identify excessive rotor distortion which could be
caused by improper wheel stud torque.
9. Install the wheel and pre-tighten the lug nuts in a cross pattern to: 70 Nm (50 ft. lbs.)
then final the lug nuts in a cross pattern to: **183 Nm (135 ft. lbs.)** and mark the
wheel at the same location as the marked wheel stud.
10. Set up a dial indicator to measure mounted rotor runout . Place the dial indicator
plunger against the inner machined rotor face, visible between the brake caliper and
the front splash shield(
Fig. 1). Rotate the wheel and tire assembly two turns and take
runout measurement. If the measurement is less than .050 mm (.002 in.) no further
action is required. If the measurement is greater than .050 mm (.002 in.) remove the
lug nuts and relocate the wheel one stud clockwise, tighten the lug nuts as described
in step 6 and check the runout again. Do not remove any brake parts. Repeat step 7
for each wheel location until you achieve the lowest mounted runout. Minimum

mounted rotor runout will be achieved by moving the wheel, not the rotor.
Thanks for the DiY.
But can you explain me what parts are broken in the caliper?
Because normaly i think there cant be a probleme.
My caliper are clean and free.

Today i check again my steering.
When i touch the steering box, i can feel there is something wrong.
I can feel and see that the steering box goes up and down and make a litle nois. The nois is a klong or klick.

Sorry its hard for me to explain this to you, because i have not the right english words in my head ;-)
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  #13  
Old 01-18-2010, 02:14 PM
RamTech's Avatar
RamTech RamTech is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Johnson City, TN
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Posts: 12,120
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Vehicle: 2004 Dakota Club Cab 4X4
Trim Level: SXT
Color: Bright Silver
Engine: 2002-2008 226ci (3.7L) Magnum/PowerTech V6 215hp 235lb/ft
Rep Power: 14
Rep:1824
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I do not know the specific problem with the calipers because all we would do is replace them with an updated part. Your steering should work smoothly and not have any popping or clicking noises.
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  #14  
Old 01-18-2010, 02:32 PM
wvcoolvinilla wvcoolvinilla is offline
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Location: Charleston, WV
Posts: 754
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Vehicle: 2011 Ram 1500 Outdoorsman 4x4
Trim Level: Outdoorsman - Rambox
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Engine: 2009-20?? 345ci (5.7L) Hemi V8 390hp 407lb/ft
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Randy, I had this problem on my 97 and it was the track bar.. $440.00 from the dealer to replace, my 97 was a 4x4..
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  #15  
Old 01-18-2010, 02:37 PM
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RamTech RamTech is offline
Dodge Ram Forum Senior Member!

 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Johnson City, TN
Age: 44
Posts: 12,120
Gender: Male
Vehicle: 2004 Dakota Club Cab 4X4
Trim Level: SXT
Color: Bright Silver
Engine: 2002-2008 226ci (3.7L) Magnum/PowerTech V6 215hp 235lb/ft
Rep Power: 14
Rep:1824
RamTech has a brilliant futureRamTech has a brilliant futureRamTech has a brilliant futureRamTech has a brilliant futureRamTech has a brilliant futureRamTech has a brilliant futureRamTech has a brilliant futureRamTech has a brilliant futureRamTech has a brilliant futureRamTech has a brilliant futureRamTech has a brilliant future
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Yeah, I've installed my fair share of those things. Unfortunately, the DR style doesn't use track bars.
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  #16  
Old 01-18-2010, 04:01 PM
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ThomasRam ThomasRam is offline
Dodge Ram Forum Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: in the Netherlands
Age: 30
Posts: 33
Gender: Male
Vehicle: Dodge Ram 2003 4,7
Trim Level: SLT Lone Star
Color: white white white
Engine: 2002-2007 287ci (4.7L) PowerTech V8 235hp 295lb/ft
Rep Power: 0
Rep:28
ThomasRam is on a distinguished road
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Remerson228 View Post
Yeah, I've installed my fair share of those things. Unfortunately, the DR style doesn't use track bars.
What is DR style?
And does my ram have a track bar?
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