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Suspension 2nd Gen Dodge Ram Suspension Problems and Questions


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  #1  
Old 02-22-2010, 11:04 PM
marlin336 marlin336 is offline
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Default Good Price for Complete Used Rear-end?

Hey, guys. I'm enjoying the forum and still trying to figure out my way around, so bear with me I sound like a newb.

Unfortunately, I'm in the market for a new dif. I could have it rebuilt for around $1,000 (parts and labor) or I can get a complete used one I found locally for $500. I can put that in myself. I have a 2000 Ram 4WD with 3.92 anti-slip. Does $500 sound high?

I would like to have it rebuilt, but I don't need to be shelling out that much right now. Plus, I'm afraid there might be some metal that has distributed itself through the case.

What would you guys do?
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Old 02-22-2010, 11:18 PM
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Toms Blue Ram 1500 Toms Blue Ram 1500 is offline
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I paid $650.00 for mine . So I don't think thats a bad price .
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Old 02-23-2010, 12:10 AM
2000 Ram 2500 2000 Ram 2500 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marlin336 View Post
Hey, guys. I'm enjoying the forum and still trying to figure out my way around, so bear with me I sound like a newb.

Unfortunately, I'm in the market for a new dif. I could have it rebuilt for around $1,000 (parts and labor) or I can get a complete used one I found locally for $500. I can put that in myself. I have a 2000 Ram 4WD with 3.92 anti-slip. Does $500 sound high?

I would like to have it rebuilt, but I don't need to be shelling out that much right now. Plus, I'm afraid there might be some metal that has distributed itself through the case.

What would you guys do?
That depends on which rear end we are talking about? Overhauling a rear end is no where near as difficult as people think. I would not buy a used rear end. You never know what kind of life it has had. Especially up in your neck of the woods. With the wealth of knowledge available on the internet and if you have any mechanical ability, you can over haul one yourself. Randy's ring and pinion is a good quality source for rear end parts. 200.00 for a quality ring and pinion. 120.00 or so for an overhaul kit including the carrier bearings/races (2), pinion bearings/races(2), pinion seal, new pinion nut. another 40.00 for the outer axle bearings and seals and 70.00 for a set of spider gears. Remove the rear cover. remove the Carrier pin bolt and the pin itself. Push in on the axles to expose the c-clips that hold the axles in. Push the c-clips out with a flat heat screw driver and remove the axles. Remove the 4 carrier cap bolts and the caps themselves(take note that they are left and right so intall them like you removed them). Pull the diff out of the housing( May have to pry slightly). Set the Diff aside for now. Remove the pinion nut. Tap the pinion out of the housing(toward the rear of the truck). The Large pinion bearing will come out on the pinion itself. It is pressed on. You need the shim under that bearing to install on your new pinion before you install the new large bearing on that one ( this is for your pinion depth that mates it to the ring gear). Pull the pinion seal out of the housing. remove the upper/smaller pinion bearing( it just lays in there). With a hammer and a 10" punch knock both the pinion races out of the housing. The upper/ smaller one is knocked toward the front of the truck. The lower/larger race is knocked out of the housing to the rear. Install the new races the same way you removed them. Install the shim from the old pinion on the pinion shaft. Tap the new large pinion bearing on. Install the new crush sleeve(sets your pinion preload). Install the pinion in the housing. install the small/upper pinion bearing and the pinion seal. Slide the yoke and nut back oon and tighten till you have the correct preload (In the manual). Back to the differential. You will have to cut the carrier bearings off. Tap the new ones back on both ends. Install the spider gears ( very easily). Remove the bolts that hold the Ring gear to the carrier. Tap the ring off. Install the new Ring gear. Install the carrier/diff back in the housing. Check pinion depth and backlash and go from there. This is all assuming we are talking about a half ton axle here. 3/4 ton and 1 ton are slightly more involved, but actually easier to work on.....
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Old 02-28-2010, 03:39 PM
marlin336 marlin336 is offline
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Well, 200 Ram 2500...

I should have taken your advice. Actually, I went ahead and went the used route. I would have had to order the parts to rebuild and I honestly was a little worried about how long my old one would last. Anyway, here's how it panned out:

A good friend of mine has a family friend that does transmission and rear-end work. He's done work for me in the past and always did a great job. As a matter of fact, he just changed out the front dif in the wife's durango. He found me a used complete rear-end and put it in this weekend. I picked it up last night. There were 2 problems with it right off the bat. The one he put in my truck was made a little different. The parking brake cable comes in the back instead of the front of the wheel assembly. My brake cable was about 10" too short. No big deal. I should be able to get one to replace it.

Second, the ABS, brake, and check engine lights are on and the speedo no worky. I knew right off the bat that it was the sensor in the rear dif. We took the one out of my old dif housing and put it in. It still doesn't work. I find it hard to believe that both of them are bad (???).

So...I was looking under the truck this morning and saw a marking on the dif cover plain as day..."355". My old one is a 392 ratio. This would be fine for a 2wd, but my truck is 4wd. This is a definite problem, since the front and rear dif now have different gear ratios. Not good for 4wd. Seems to me like the mechanic would have noticed it was wrong before going through the trouble of putting it in. That would have saved me some headaches.

I still have my old rear end. I need to decide what my best option is. I guess I could order parts to rebuild the old one and then get $ back for the wrong part. Option 2 would be to figure out the ABS problem and parking brake cable and then either replace the ring and pinion in either the front or the back dif. Option 3 would be to drive this thing through his garage door and start choking people. ;D

Thoughts?
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Old 02-28-2010, 04:30 PM
dirtsurferus dirtsurferus is offline
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i'd rebuild it. with all of the headache that you have had with this already it's just going to get worse the further down the road. you my as well get the $ back and redirect it to a breand new, high quality ring and pinion (cause randy's sells awesome stff in my opinion) that way you know that a)they are the right parts and b)it's done right. that's what i would do.
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Old 02-28-2010, 07:58 PM
marlin336 marlin336 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtsurferus View Post
i'd rebuild it. with all of the headache that you have had with this already it's just going to get worse the further down the road. you my as well get the $ back and redirect it to a breand new, high quality ring and pinion (cause randy's sells awesome stff in my opinion) that way you know that a)they are the right parts and b)it's done right. that's what i would do.

Yep. This is what I need to do. I need to talk to the jackleg that did the work and see if it would be possible to use this one until I get the parts. I don't really want to put the old one back in because I don't know how long it will last. I could end up tearing that old one up beyond repair.
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Old 02-28-2010, 08:53 PM
2000 Ram 2500 2000 Ram 2500 is offline
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This is usually the case with Junkyard axles. Wrong ratios and all the extras dont line up. Id pull it out and send it back, if they will take it back. That money will overhaul your original. No such thing as and axle breaking beyond repair.....If that this truly is the wrong ratio, it should not be difficult to get your money back. Especially if you asked for 3.92 ratio. You obviously cannot use it in 4WD, unless you want a tranfercase in a few pieces...LOL

Last edited by 2000 Ram 2500; 02-28-2010 at 08:56 PM.
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Old 03-09-2010, 09:58 PM
marlin336 marlin336 is offline
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Well, here's the update. I've been busy and just getting around to posting the info. They gave me a good 3.92 rear end and we put it in last week. Everything is fine now except I can't seem to get rid of the ol ABS/Brake lights issue and still no speedo. I put a new sensor in it today and still nothing. The connection on the harness looks fine and I tried resetting it by pulling the fuses (#3 and #9) and also tried unhooking the battery.

I've looked through the site as well as some other sites and can't really figure this one out. I may need to take another good look at the connection. Anyone know if it can be checked with an ohm meter?
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