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Old 02-18-2010, 01:22 PM
Nauticus Nauticus is offline
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Originally Posted by KirkCJohnston View Post
And I gave up hope so easy...

Option 1 was attempted already with no success (The diagram and components are identical to the KC Lite factory kit/wiring harness)

Option 2 seems feasible...I think I may have found the best relay...let me know if you agree:

If you cannot get to the link, here are the specs:

Automotive RELAY, 12V DC/30A FASTON (Model # 960)
$2.99 each
rating: 12V DC / 20-30A
operating current: 140mA
contact: 1 x inverter
housing: ABS
lips: 6.35mm FASTON

Is there any relay with an operating current less than 140mA and/or will the on board computer system detect this low of a draw?
140MA is pretty low load. I am going to say it will work. But from what I have seen the new rams ECU is Temperamental as they come. I had a Volvo that had a similar ECU that did self checking voltage wattage ect. I had to use dual relay setups on alot of things to make crap work. Lol I had, 15 or so relays lined up on the side of the engine compartment. That relay looks good, make sure to cover the middle "87" point to avoid short-outs.

Edit: That relay will use approx 2.3 watts to switch over.
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Old 04-28-2010, 01:15 AM
KirkCJohnston KirkCJohnston is offline
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Vehicle: 2009 Dodge Ram 1500
Trim Level: Quad Cab SLT
Color: Silver
Engine: 2009-2010 345ci (5.7L) Hemi V8 390hp 407lb/ft
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After a couple of weeks working in Thailand, I was ready to get under the truck and get my KC Lites tapped into my high beams. I attempted to tap into the driver's side white/light green wire (6 inches from the bulb) one more time, but found no luck. After I removed the 2 port connector (the same type that comes with the kit), I noticed that the connector had barely cut into the wire sheath. I grabbed another connecter and spent a couple minutes clamping it onto the wires ENSURING this time that the wire sheath on both wires were penetrated. I had a Borat moment..."GREAT SUCCESS!". Thanks for all the tips guys...
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lights, wiring

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