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  #21  
Old 01-07-2011, 12:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skwurlz View Post
If you have to remove that snapring, the wheels you just bought are junk. Good quality aftermarket wheels designed for the dodge ram, would take that ring into the engineering.

If you remove it, you can risk cracking the rotor.
Come on... The retaining rings are only there to hold the rotors on during final assembly, talk to Chrysler, and its the same on Jeeps. Removing the ring will not crack the rotor. The rotor is held in place by the wheel when it is seated against the hub. Furthermore, most all of the best aftermarket wheels are made this way. Castings are made to fit a multitude of vehicles, and the center portions are drilled to fit a certain lug pattern. If it's the difference in many companies retooling to allow for something only Dodge does, or having people remove an unneeded snap ring, the latter is the obvious way to go.

And I assure you my, nor anyone else's wheels here wheels are "junk", as you say. Please realize, wheels designed especially for a Dodge Ram are stamped "Chrysler" on the inside.
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  #22  
Old 01-07-2011, 12:48 AM
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Your right, the ring is used to hold the rotor, most other vehicles use a set screw. removing the snap ring / set screw that was designed to be there is the wrong way to do it. I've seen rotors that have failed due to vibration from a missing setscrew.

Also, using wheels that are not "Hubcentric" (almost ALL cheaper, not custom made) is a bad idea as well.

Most quality wheels, are all hubcentric, and running a small recess on a lathe/mill in the machining step, is a couple extra seconds on the machine, while its cutting the center bore and PCD. It wouldn't need to be "cast" in at all. Centerbore's and PCDs are never cast into the mould in the first place. If the wheel is already in the fixture for the centerbore, how hard is it to add the toolpath for the clearance of the ring? Not Very difficult at all.

Look into Schmidt Wheels, R-Werks, Budniks, Alcoa, Bonspeed, J-Line, DTM Wheels, HRE, etc..... They are all Machined for the specific vehicle. Also mostly all are Forged centers.

The majority of wheels on here are cast, and made in China or Taiwan. I just think its funny people are spending $3000 and $4000 on cast wheels from china, like Lexani's and Dub and all those other junk, and because its pricey, they think they are quality.

Here's a link for you:
http://www.german-wheels.com/technik/radinox/

Watch any of those video's about Radinox...
The radinox lips are available undrilled, so you could make your own center, or use someone elses, and make a bulletproof wheel.

Why every 3 piece wheel on the planet doesn't use em is beyond me.
Here's a link to my Old VW, that ran those wheels stateside. 1 of 2 sets ever brought into the US in 18"
http://www.german-wheels.com/produkt...=TH-Line_3-tlg


I think I may just be forced to make my own centers and run the Radinox lips.....
Paying $1200 a wheel for single piece SRT-10 Alcoas just seems rediculous, when I can build my own for less than that and have them bulletproof using Schmidt Lips.

I was thinking the SRT-10 center design, 22x10 and 22x12 but more concave, with a 2" step lip up front and a 4" step lip out back, Full black powdercoat........ would take a few minutes to draw in Solidworks, and the blanks can be had from R Werks.
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Last edited by skwurlz; 01-07-2011 at 12:51 AM.
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  #23  
Old 01-07-2011, 01:05 AM
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Woooo. Too much info for my brain...lol.

Tonight, I had to tighten up the front lug nuts on the driver side again. I could feel that same vibration and pulled over to check them. Once I got them snug, I got back on the highway, and as soon as I hit 75 mph, it got to shaking real bad. I'm pretty certain it's an off balance tire up front.
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  #24  
Old 01-07-2011, 01:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcasey10 View Post
Woooo. Too much info for my brain...lol.

Tonight, I had to tighten up the front lug nuts on the driver side again. I could feel that same vibration and pulled over to check them. Once I got them snug, I got back on the highway, and as soon as I hit 75 mph, it got to shaking real bad. I'm pretty certain it's an off balance tire up front.
jcasey, just thought of a couple more things. I had a set of 20's on my last truck (2wd F150) and they had a helluva time balancing one of them (and these were not cheap). So after the third time, it was found that the wheels were not drilled perfectly. They let me see it while on the speed balancer and I could tell that there was a very slight up and down motion in the outer ring of the wheel, which should spin true. Replaced it, and it was good.
Also, not related to the wheel, I had a Camaro several cars ago and bought brand new Cooper Cobra tires for it. 200 miles and 2 balances later, they found the tire had a broken belt (even though it was practically new). It created a bad vibration as well. Replaced under warranty.

I can't stand wheel vibration. Good luck!
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  #25  
Old 01-07-2011, 01:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FormerGorilla View Post
jcasey, just thought of a couple more things. I had a set of 20's on my last truck (2wd F150) and they had a helluva time balancing one of them (and these were not cheap). So after the third time, it was found that the wheels were not drilled perfectly. They let me see it while on the speed balancer and I could tell that there was a very slight up and down motion in the outer ring of the wheel, which should spin true. Replaced it, and it was good.
Also, not related to the wheel, I had a Camaro several cars ago and bought brand new Cooper Cobra tires for it. 200 miles and 2 balances later, they found the tire had a broken belt (even though it was practically new). It created a bad vibration as well. Replaced under warranty.

I can't stand wheel vibration. Good luck!
Im hoping its not wheel. I dont have the money to buy another one.

And I don't think its the tire, because they've been on my truck the whole time. Never replaced them.
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  #26  
Old 01-07-2011, 07:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skwurlz View Post
Your right, the ring is used to hold the rotor, most other vehicles use a set screw. removing the snap ring / set screw that was designed to be there is the wrong way to do it. I've seen rotors that have failed due to vibration from a missing setscrew.

Also, using wheels that are not "Hubcentric" (almost ALL cheaper, not custom made) is a bad idea as well.

Most quality wheels, are all hubcentric, and running a small recess on a lathe/mill in the machining step, is a couple extra seconds on the machine, while its cutting the center bore and PCD. It wouldn't need to be "cast" in at all. Centerbore's and PCDs are never cast into the mould in the first place. If the wheel is already in the fixture for the centerbore, how hard is it to add the toolpath for the clearance of the ring? Not Very difficult at all.

Look into Schmidt Wheels, R-Werks, Budniks, Alcoa, Bonspeed, J-Line, DTM Wheels, HRE, etc..... They are all Machined for the specific vehicle. Also mostly all are Forged centers.

The majority of wheels on here are cast, and made in China or Taiwan. I just think its funny people are spending $3000 and $4000 on cast wheels from china, like Lexani's and Dub and all those other junk, and because its pricey, they think they are quality.

Here's a link for you:
http://www.german-wheels.com/technik/radinox/

Watch any of those video's about Radinox...
The radinox lips are available undrilled, so you could make your own center, or use someone elses, and make a bulletproof wheel.

Why every 3 piece wheel on the planet doesn't use em is beyond me.
Here's a link to my Old VW, that ran those wheels stateside. 1 of 2 sets ever brought into the US in 18"
http://www.german-wheels.com/produkt...=TH-Line_3-tlg


I think I may just be forced to make my own centers and run the Radinox lips.....
Paying $1200 a wheel for single piece SRT-10 Alcoas just seems rediculous, when I can build my own for less than that and have them bulletproof using Schmidt Lips.

I was thinking the SRT-10 center design, 22x10 and 22x12 but more concave, with a 2" step lip up front and a 4" step lip out back, Full black powdercoat........ would take a few minutes to draw in Solidworks, and the blanks can be had from R Werks.
$1200 a wheel? That's rediculous! They had better be bedazzled with real diamonds for that much!
And I thought $650 was alot for the front wheel on my motorcycle!
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  #27  
Old 01-07-2011, 03:11 PM
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Well, I'm sitting at the shop right now and it's got 3 bad stud bolts on the drivers side, and 2 of those clips were still left on the passenger side. Getting it all taken care of.
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  #28  
Old 01-07-2011, 03:42 PM
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Yup, they overtorqued the bolts! Cause they used the impact wrench!
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  #29  
Old 01-07-2011, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Dog Tannen View Post
Yup, they overtorqued the bolts! Cause they used the impact wrench!
Actually they didn't. My studs had been a little loose way back when I rotated my old wheels and tires. I actually had to replace one of them. Over time they slowly just got more loose. They were using a torque wrench to tighten the wheels down, because I watched them.
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  #30  
Old 01-07-2011, 04:09 PM
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And he's gonna have me come back in monday so he can check the torque and make sure they're holding.
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