Monday evening on my way home from work, I noticed the trans shuddered going into 2nd gear. Wondering where that came from, it banged overdrive pretty hard a few minutes later. Sitting in traffic I figured I'd service the trans this weekend, when all of a sudden I heard the front pump start to howl and I lost all of my gears. I managed to limp it to a parking lot where I could let it cool down and I walked home. I came back a couple of hours later and fired it up, put it in drive and it went right into gear. I got it home and in it's parking spot in time to lose everything again. Needless to say, it's getting serviced now.
If it's ok with everyone here, I'll try to explain with pictures what is going on thoughout the process.
Remove trans pan to drain fluid.
1st: disconnect the battery. Spray all nuts/bolts that may be rusty with
WD-40, PB Blaster or your favorite rust buster.
Remove the starter, two block to trans braces, converter cover and torque converter bolts (4) remove the center brace that the trans mounts to. Carefully remove the spring clips that retain the cooler lines into the trans and work the lines out of the fittings. Rmove the exhaust pipes from the manifolds and remove the O2 sensor so it doesn't get damaged. disconnect the electrical plugs, carefully pry the kickdown cable from it's ball. Rmove the nut/bolt that holds the kickdown cable bracket. Remove the bolt that holds the shifter linkage.
Now remove the 6 bolts in the bell housing--4 rear 2 in front. Note: you will have to remove the oil filter as one bolt is behind it. Once all the bolts are removed, seperate the trans from the engine block using your choice of prying utensils. (please have a jack of some sort under the trans at this point.) As the trans is moving away from the block, be sure that the converter is staying with the trans. Slowly lower and move the trans back while keeping wiring and cooler lines from getting caught.
Once you have it lowered it should look something like this:
Once I got it over to the bench, I removed the speed sensor and tailshaft housing and the pan.
Next I removed the shifter/kickdown linkage. They have a "flat" side to them so they only go back on one way. These are secured using pinch bolts.
Once these are off, there are about 12 bolts that hold the valve body to the trans case. Take those out and carefully remove the valvebody.
Now you see what is left, the front pump, the drums containing the clutch discs and clutch plates, the two bands and servos that control them
Getting back to my trans pan, you will notice the brownish tint to the fluid. Not really good. Not bad, I've seen worse but it strill has that hot clutch material smell to it. There is a small amount of metal in the pan and on the magnet. I'm hoping thats from the the clutch discs and plates.
Thats as far as I got today, I'll update this with more info and pics sometime during the week.
Please note: No one from Ram ForumZ.com or the originator of this thread can or will be held responsible for any injury or damage that could occur from trying this yourself. If you are not sure, please consult professional help.