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  #1  
Old 01-21-2011, 06:59 AM
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98COOKIEMONSTER 98COOKIEMONSTER is offline
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Default v10 heating issue, and a plethera of other things..... that are bugging me.

allright,

i replaced my RAD last july because the old one sprang a leak. i put a copper core one in instead of an aluminum because of the "better" cooling. i replaced the therm gasket at the same time because of some leakage and i also replace the fan clutch and all the hoses. now comes the problem. as it is now winter and im in utah. i cannot get the thing to heat up. if i but cardboard in front of the RAD it will get hot and i get pressure and everything however if i take the cardboard out the thing will not heat up. i obvesly dont want to leave the cardboard in all the time for fear of my trans overheating because im blocking the cooler. just wondering if anyone has any ideas?

also anyone had any luck porting and polishing there intake mani?

and i need info on replaceing the oil pan gasket as it leaks like a sive... do i need to drop the front axle or is there enought room if i let the axle hang and jack the frame?

and one last thing. everytime i stop this beast of mine the truck stops and a few sec later i hear a loud "thunk" i have pulled everything out. no load. nothing in the truck but me. and ideas on that...?


thanks,

thats all my stupid questions for today....
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Old 01-21-2011, 09:31 AM
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First, I have to ask who told you that a copper radiator cools better? Aluminum is much better, that's why you see them in high performance and race vehicles. That being said, let's go after the heating problem. Start with the obvious and check the coolant level in the radiator. From there check the heater hoses - are they both as hot as the radiator hoses at operating temp? One hose will be about 15-20 degrees cooler because of the heat transfer from the core if the core isn't clogged. Your symptoms really make me thing the t-stat is stuck open but we need to check those things first.

Oil pan gasket removal:
  1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
  2. Raise vehicle.
  3. Drain engine oil.
  4. Remove left engine to transmission strut.
  5. Remove oil pan and one-piece gasket. The engine may have to be raised slightly on 2WD vehicles.
  6. Remove the oil pick-up tube assembly. Discard the gasket.
Installation:
  1. Fabricate 4 alignment dowels from 5/16 x 1 1/2 inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier installation and removal with a screwdriver. Install the dowels in the cylinder block at the four corners.
  2. Apply small amount of Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent at the split lines. The split lines are between the cylinder block, the timing chain cover and the rear crankshaft seal assembly. After the sealant is applied you have 3 minutes to install the gasket and oil pan.
  3. Slide the one-piece gasket over the dowels and onto the block.
  4. Position the oil pan over the dowels and onto the gasket. The engine may have to be slightly raised on 2WD vehicles.
  5. Install the oil pan bolts. Tighten the 1/4 inch bolts to 11 Nm (96 in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the stud bolts to 16 Nm (144 in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the 5/16 inch bolts to 16 Nm (144 in. lbs.) torque
  6. Remove the dowels. Install the remaining 5/16 inch oil pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 16 Nm (144 in. lbs.) torque.
  7. Install the drain plug. Tighten drain plug to 34 Nm (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
  8. Install the engine to transmission strut.
  9. Lower vehicle.
  10. Connect the negative cable to the battery.
  11. Fill crankcase with oil to proper level.
As for intake porting, I don't think it's worth the effort on a stock engine.

The thunking noise is a good one since it doesn't happen for a few seconds after the truck stops rolling. I think I would start by checking the engine and trans mounts.
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  #3  
Old 01-21-2011, 03:19 PM
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98COOKIEMONSTER 98COOKIEMONSTER is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RamTech View Post
First, I have to ask who told you that a copper radiator cools better? Aluminum is much better, that's why you see them in high performance and race vehicles. That being said, let's go after the heating problem. Start with the obvious and check the coolant level in the radiator. From there check the heater hoses - are they both as hot as the radiator hoses at operating temp? One hose will be about 15-20 degrees cooler because of the heat transfer from the core if the core isn't clogged. Your symptoms really make me thing the t-stat is stuck open but we need to check those things first.


Oil pan gasket removal:
  1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
  2. Raise vehicle.
  3. Drain engine oil.
  4. Remove left engine to transmission strut.
  5. Remove oil pan and one-piece gasket. The engine may have to be raised slightly on 2WD vehicles.
  6. Remove the oil pick-up tube assembly. Discard the gasket.
Installation:
  1. Fabricate 4 alignment dowels from 5/16 x 1 1/2 inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier installation and removal with a screwdriver. Install the dowels in the cylinder block at the four corners.
  2. Apply small amount of Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent at the split lines. The split lines are between the cylinder block, the timing chain cover and the rear crankshaft seal assembly. After the sealant is applied you have 3 minutes to install the gasket and oil pan.
  3. Slide the one-piece gasket over the dowels and onto the block.
  4. Position the oil pan over the dowels and onto the gasket. The engine may have to be slightly raised on 2WD vehicles.
  5. Install the oil pan bolts. Tighten the 1/4 inch bolts to 11 Nm (96 in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the stud bolts to 16 Nm (144 in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the 5/16 inch bolts to 16 Nm (144 in. lbs.) torque
  6. Remove the dowels. Install the remaining 5/16 inch oil pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 16 Nm (144 in. lbs.) torque.
  7. Install the drain plug. Tighten drain plug to 34 Nm (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
  8. Install the engine to transmission strut.
  9. Lower vehicle.
  10. Connect the negative cable to the battery.
  11. Fill crankcase with oil to proper level.
As for intake porting, I don't think it's worth the effort on a stock engine.

The thunking noise is a good one since it doesn't happen for a few seconds after the truck stops rolling. I think I would start by checking the engine and trans mounts.


OK.... first. the RAD. i ordered it from Jegs, they assured me it was alot better then the aluminum RAD.
coolant level - Check 100% full in a 50/50 mix
if i put cardboard in front of the rad and let it run i can get it to operating temp and its fine. however if there is no cardboard i cant seem to get it hot. i drove it 200 miles and it didnt get hot. it got lukewarm - (it was 15*f outside at the time) um. im leaning tward the t-stat being stuck open as well i was going to order the parts but figured i better ask first - anyone know where to order the gasket and t-stat? no dodge dealer for 80 miles..... and thanks for the hints on the bumps i will have a looksee today when im under it. also thanks for the oil pan instructions. i didnt want to pull it and end up in a pickle...


THANKS
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  #4  
Old 01-24-2011, 07:53 AM
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sorry but you cant get the truck to warm up to operating temperature? or you cant get the inside of the truck to warm up like blowing warm air and not hot air?
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Old 01-24-2011, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 98redbull2 View Post
sorry but you cant get the truck to warm up to operating temperature? or you cant get the inside of the truck to warm up like blowing warm air and not hot air?

it will not warm up to operating temp.
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Old 01-25-2011, 07:31 AM
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oo allright yea probably just a stuck open thermostat, prepare yourself for that one i think those are a b**** to get too on the v10 lol.
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Old 01-25-2011, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98redbull2 View Post
oo allright yea probably just a stuck open thermostat, prepare yourself for that one i think those are a b**** to get too on the v10 lol.
they arnt that bad. its just a pain in the A** to find someone that has the gasket. not to mention a new thermostat that doesnt cost $150 from the dealer...... so as soon as it is found i will fix it.
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Old 01-26-2011, 07:52 AM
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yea i figured out yesterday they werent too hard i helped put an alternator in the buddys v10 yesterday and it wasnt as hidden as i thaught it was lol but good luck.
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  #9  
Old 01-27-2011, 02:30 PM
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$150 for a t-stat? Sounds like an install price.
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