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Old 06-14-2011, 05:20 PM
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10ramisport 10ramisport is offline
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Default How to: Hood Insulation / Radiator Cover Graphic Designs

Fellow Ram owners, here is the write-up I did on my 2010 Ram. Sorry I don’t have many detailed pictures, but here is how I did it. Any questions let me know. Enjoy and happy painting...

Link to pictures:

Link to pictures with the insulation and cover installed:

Items needed:
Tape Measure
2 ea White Poster board
Exacto Knife
New clean soft bristle paint brush
New plastic push in rivets for insulation
Scotch Tape
Painters / Masking Tape
Thumb Tacks
Spray Paint – Qty depends on how detailed your designs are- I used 1 can Krylon Flat Black, 2 Cans - Krylon Now Wagon Red and 1 Can Krylon Silver Metallic
Flat Black Paint Marker
Paint Thinner
Paper Towels/Q-Tips
Internet Access / printer

1. First determine what graphic design(s) you want to use and where you want to place it. All I did was search the internet for the logos I used i.e. Hemi Logo, 345 Hemi Emblem, Dodge Ram logo, etc. Or you can take a pic of an emblem off your truck and use that. Totally up to you.

2. Now, take a tape measure and measure the area on the insulation/cover where you want to put your design(s).

3. Once you have your design, print it out. I used an HP All-In-One printer and the only thing I changed on the preference/finishing was the “Poster Printing” layout. Basically what this did was put one design on four sheets 2x2, nine sheets 3x3, etc depending on how large you want it. I actually had to experiment printing out the design until I got the size I wanted (Thus step 2).

4. If your design printed out on one sheet, that part is done. If it printed out on 4 or more sheets, I just scotch taped all the sheets together to make it one.

5. Next, take your exacto knife and cut out your design making a temp stencil (after all, it was printed on just paper). After that, I traced that stencil onto the poster board and using the exacto…made my real stencil (poster board wont seep paint). (Some of you may not want to cut two stencils and just use the temp one, but I didn’t want to risk the paint bleeding through…BTW, the insulation soaks up A LOT of Red!)

6. Now the fun begins! For the Hood Insulation, remove the seven plastic push in rivets holding it in place. These are a pain in the A** to remove. I had to use a flat head screwdriver and vise grips to remove thus damaging them. Some of them will break when trying to remove. Be careful not to damage the insulation. I could not re-use these rivets. Maybe there is a tool of some sort to remove these, don’t know. Once the rivets have been removed, just slide the insulation out. (See Step 12)

7. For the Radiator cover, just pry up on the six push in rivets. These should be reusable.

8. I brushed off the Hood insulation with the paint brush to remove any loose dirt, etc. Then I used the scissors/exacto knife to remove any loose/worn fibers that would hinder the paint process. I actually had a few fibers that got in the way of painting and can be seen if looking at it close. Next, I sprayed the entire insulation (engine side) with Krylon Flat Black paint to give it a new clean look and let it dry overnight to prevent cross contaminating colors. Used one can. There was no prep needed for the rad cover-I just washed it off.

9. To paint the stencils on the insulation, I first placed the stencil where I wanted it and used thumb tacks to hold it in place and to make it sit as flat as possible to prevent overspray. (Note-The center plastic push in rivet of the insulation has a “depression” that can cause a problem that’s why I did not try to paint over that area.) This can pose a problem if it sits on any part of the liner that’s not flat. The thumb tacks will leave a small hole in the insulation but is hard to notice once removed. You just have to be careful spraying those areas that are not flat. I just wore latex gloves and held that area down or you can try taping it. Just be careful pulling the tape off as it could rip the insulation. Tape newspaper around the stencil to prevent overspray and begin painting. I waited approximately 10-15 minutes between coats until I achieved the depth of color I wanted. Use light coats. (The red paint used on the insulation absorbs so it will take time to get the proper red color.) The silver was easy to spray and did not use as much as the red. Dark colors absorb more than light.

10. As for the rad cover, just position stencil and tape it down. Use newspaper to prevent overspray.

11. To remove overspray on insulation, use paint thinner on a paper towel and dab. On the rad cover, use the same technique plus Q Tips and it comes off easy. If there is still overspray on the insulation, you can use a flat black paint marker or something similar to cover the overspray-Test on a small area first.

12. Once all dry, re-install the insulation and rad cover. I bought new hood insulation plastic push in rivets at Lowes for $.89/2. These are similar in size but look much better than the originals IMO. The only catch to using these is that the “teeth” are slightly larger than the hood mounting holes and require trimming of the teeth using an exacto knife to push in. Or you could just get new ones at the dealer.

Last edited by 10ramisport; 06-14-2011 at 05:32 PM.
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Old 06-14-2011, 05:41 PM
Crash Crash is offline
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Thats for taking the time to do a great write up!
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Old 05-01-2014, 12:25 PM
maxjerome28 maxjerome28 is offline
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Your link is password protected. I know it's old but what is a graphic design radiator cover?
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