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Custom Dodge Ram Performance Mods - Engine - 4.7 Liter V8 Discuss modifying your Dodge Ram with Performance Parts and Accessories!
Factory Spec: 4.7-liter V8 engine - 310 horsepower, 330 lb-ft of torque.


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  #61  
Old 01-28-2012, 05:02 PM
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Swapped out my lash adjusters today and was very dissapointed that it didn't resolve my noisey lifter issue. I must have a restriction in the oil passage then.?.? I added some ATF in my oil and will put a few miles on it this week to see if I can't break it up. I still haven't found my air leak either and it looks like I my rear main seal is leaking too so I may just yank the motor next weekend, tear it down again and go thru it a little more thoroughly this time.

Gaining experience the hard way sucks. My wife is threatening to buy me another truck but I really want to resolve this and put another 250K miles on this one.
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  #62  
Old 01-29-2012, 09:50 AM
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I wouldn't pull the motor for a rear seal leak...and as far as the noisy lash adjusters, just let it be unless it's excessive, all these motors make that noise. I assume it goes away after a minute and only occurs on startup?
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  #63  
Old 01-29-2012, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snrusnak View Post
I wouldn't pull the motor for a rear seal leak...and as far as the noisy lash adjusters, just let it be unless it's excessive, all these motors make that noise. I assume it goes away after a minute and only occurs on startup?
I think I found the leak, it was a pan bolt. Torque wrenches are nice but can be fooled when the threads are gummed up with some old gasket material. I got almost a full turn on one.

As for the noisy adjuster, it's much louder than normal startup noise and it's not going away after a minute at idle or when under pressure. I'd almost swear it wasn't getting any oil but I pulled the lash adjusters again today and probed the oil ports. They had plenty of oil in them, the head was fully coated and they all squirted oil when I cranked it over with the adjusters out. If it's a restriction, it's further back in the oil passage or possibly in the head gasket mating...which would be pretty odd considering how the head gasket positions with the centering tubes. I can't see anywhere where it could be hitting either, unless the noise is coming from one of the valves...

Could it be the timing chain? It has plenty of tension and oil coverage as well...

Last edited by IN2H2O; 01-29-2012 at 04:55 PM.
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  #64  
Old 01-29-2012, 04:59 PM
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Well if they have oil then I wouldn't say that they aren't getting oil. Did you adjust them? I'm pretty sure you have to shim them underneath (between the lash adjusters and the head) to obtain the proper clearance between the valve stem and rocker.
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  #65  
Old 01-29-2012, 05:13 PM
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I was under the impression that they were "Zero Lash" hydraulic adjusters and do not require any shimming or adjustments.?.?

If that was the case, why would they run quiet for a few hundred miles and then start making noise? Valve settling in and making the valve stem slightly longer? I spoke to the guy who rebuilt the heads and he says they adjust the length of the valve stem to match the valve grind.
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  #66  
Old 01-29-2012, 05:27 PM
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well I'm not sure, I'm no expert, but am pretty sure they still need some shimming....or at least MAY need some shimming. I'd PM superiorstyles, he knows a lot about the 4.7L and this type of thing...
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  #67  
Old 01-30-2012, 05:44 AM
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Both 3.7 and 4.7 are known to have issues with the valve lash adjusters...it is not your doing. Cut yourself a 4 ft garden hose and use it as a stethoscope to pinpoint the faulty adjuster and add a .00050 to .000100 shim to bottom of the adjuster and see if that works. You can also use the garden hose to pinpoint your vacumm leak (whistle). Always soak ur lifters over night unless they are installed and always prime ur oil pump with a drill motor or similar before startup. My hats off to you for your troubles you've been through and sticking with it. I wish I could have chimed in on your build earlier to help save you from some of the trouble you had. Your original engine was deff the way to go for the rebuild instead of a used purchase. It was most likely burning oil from rings and high milage and 280k miles is a proven engine to stick with. BTW...even though they are called lash adjusters they are not adjustable rocker arms. Also, judging from one of the pics, do not pull the engine out with the converter. I don't know if it was you or the guy you purchased the engine from but that's a no no. You can damage the front trans seal very easily like that. You may already know but just incase, never install the engine with it connected. Always install the converter in the trans and then mate the engine to it. Then align the flexplate holes to the converter and install the bolts. It's a wonder that you do not have a front trans seal leak. About your rear main oil leak...make sure that it's not the trans seal. Your engine is fine and you did a good job. Do some searching about ur rockers and follow the tips you learn...all is good and congrats on you build.
However, it looks like you've been driving it so all must be good. Sor te one set of pt splines. All

Last edited by RadioFlyer; 01-30-2012 at 05:47 AM.
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  #68  
Old 01-30-2012, 05:59 AM
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Plz ignore the last part in my previous post. It explains two different pilotshaft splines...one with a single set and one with two sets and how to install the converter on each. (Could not edit) Sry if I sound to school you on something you may aready know but the pic looks alarming to me. I'm posting this from one of my cell phones and I'm not too good at it so sry for the confusing end of the above post and any other confusing comments. Again, ur engine is fine, you did a good job.....do not pull the engine back down just yet. If anything, you may just have to pull the the tranny to change the front seal but hopefully not.

Last edited by RadioFlyer; 01-30-2012 at 06:21 AM.
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  #69  
Old 01-30-2012, 08:04 AM
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I wouldn't recommend throwing shims under the lash adjusters without actually using a feeler gauge to get the appropriate clearance at the valve stem/rocker. I'd pull the valve covers and check each one and add shims under the lash adjusters as required.
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  #70  
Old 01-30-2012, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snrusnak View Post
I wouldn't recommend throwing shims under the lash adjusters without actually using a feeler gauge to get the appropriate clearance at the valve stem/rocker. I'd pull the valve covers and check each one and add shims under the lash adjusters as required.
I never said to shim them all, it is most likely one int and one ex. You don't have to pull the valve cover...use the stethoscope to find it with the vave covers on.
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