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Towing 2nd Gen Dodge Ram Towing Questions


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Old 01-17-2012, 10:38 PM
t05ks t05ks is offline
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Default Rear wheel anti-lock brakes need help

The rear brakes on my 96 1500 4x4 have been awfull from day one. The rear shoes were still like new after 90,000 miles mostly because they barely contact the drums ever. I have tightened the adjusters until i can feel the drag on the drums but that still has little effect. Are there oversized pistons that will help? Or is it just a poor design where there is not enough hydaulic pressure supplied by the master cylinder?
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Old 01-18-2012, 01:32 AM
Screamintrashcan Screamintrashcan is offline
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Does your red brake warning light come on momentarily when the key is turned to IGN? If it doesn't, I would guess that someone pulled the bulb due to the light being on all the time because they couldn't figure out how to neutralize the safety feature on the proportioning valve, after a blown line. Theres all sorts of different approaches to setting the switch, write back if this is your prob, and I'll look in my book to see what specifically must be done to set yours...
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Old 01-18-2012, 08:21 PM
t05ks t05ks is offline
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I will have to check and see if the light does indeed come on? I have had the truck since new off the lot so no one has had a chance to mess around with it other than me. I wonder if neutralizing the safety would essentially give the truck equal braking force across all 4 wheels? I would sure be willing to give it a shot! I'll be anxiously awaiting your reply Screamingtrashcan
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Old 01-19-2012, 09:47 PM
t05ks t05ks is offline
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Screamintrashcan, The brake light is indeed working as it should. Is there an adjustment that can be made to increase hydraulic pressure to the rear wheel brake cylinders? Thanks for your help!
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Old 02-06-2012, 02:43 AM
Screamintrashcan Screamintrashcan is offline
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SSorry, didn't realize this post was here, for so long... obviously the brake warning circuit is not tripped, so 1st, what I would do, is check to see if you're getting brake juice to the affected rear brake, by cracking a bleeder, (goofy looking nut on the inside backing plate, above where the brake line goes into the backing plate, while someone is standing on the brake pedal. if not, bad proportioning valve, is what I would speculate.If you get pressurized brake fluid, it is obvious that your adjusters were never set properly, yeah, it happens, Never let up on the brake pedal while that bleeder nut is loose, you'll suck air into the lines, and that will affect your pedal response, quite greatly. Communicate with your helper, "holding pedal down?" "yup" open nut. squirt. close nut. "let go of pedal" "OK" "Alright, checks good/bad, we're done with that" I used to watch over the antics of an assy line, and deal with customer complaints. we would specify how the suppliers were to set up their assemblies, and never check if it was being done. So, you need to crank out your shoe adjusters, theres a tool for this, and you probably oughtta go buy one, and jack up your axle, and put the transfer case or tranny in neutral, and spin the wheel, if you don't hear an ever so slight dragging sound, tighten up the star wheel with your new brake spoon. when you do one wheel, go and do the other, the spoon will fit thru a little oval port on the bottom of the inside backing plate , probably has a little rubber plug that needs to be pulled out to adjust the star wheel. (Put the plug back in when you're done) if you go, so many cranks, and now you have definate drag, turn the starwheel the other way, until you get that ever so miniscule dragging noise. put a wheel back on and check it out, you should get rear brakes. Congrats, yer know a break perfeshunal!!! Edit ... Sorry, got carried away there, I see you've already set the adjusters...Must be the proportioning valve, and they cost pretty good... See if fluid is moving by bleeding...

Last edited by Screamintrashcan; 02-06-2012 at 02:47 AM. Reason: Incomplete reply...
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