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Heating & Cooling 4th Gen Dodge Ram Heating & Cooling Problems and Questions.


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  #11  
Old 03-19-2012, 06:08 PM
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:10 AM
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:47 AM
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[QUOTE=ramvan2500;754610]Timing isn't an exact science, so it would depend on the cam, the ecm, and how you degreed the cam.

The two most neglected systems that must be maintained is the the transmission and the cooling system. The cooling system usually doesn't last long especially when you're dealing with weak grounds or an aluminum radiator.


If the transmission lines going into the radiator are clogged, would that cause problems with my transmission?? I don't have signs of the trans slipping or any kind of defects/failure...
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by ramvan2500 View Post
Timing isn't an exact science, so it would depend on the cam, the ecm, and how you degreed the cam.

I use a autozone brand thermostat and it works well. If you're overheating then it can be air in the system which is the most common. In the worse case scenario the block is clogged which happens in vehicles that are old and neglected. Or you can just have a clogged radiator. The two most neglected systems that must be maintained is the the transmission and the cooling system. The cooling system usually doesn't last long especially when you're dealing with weak grounds or an aluminum radiator.

With the cooling system you have so many variables that contribute to cooling failures. It's not simply put antifreeze and water in then that's it, you have to change it out every 2 years for conventional and 4 years for that yellow or orange stuff. But what variables their really are to worry about is the pH of the mixture, the concentration of the mixture, and the amount of current present in the radiator, if you have an aluminum radiator for example and you have a mixture with a low pH then you have a very caustic solution that will eat the radiator from the inside out. Now if you have a solution that has a high current then the cooling system can fall victim to galvanic corrosion basically electrolysis, where one metal will attack a weaker metal.

I always replace the coolant and flush every 2 years regardless of the coolant type, I use conventional because it's cheap and it works. I also use distilled water in the mixture, I usually have more alcohol then water but I won't have to high or low a mixture. Generally I try to maintain 60/40, 70/30 is my max mix.

I do periodic pH checks and voltage checks as well.

I have to be very cautious because my cooling system has many mixed meterials, iron block and heads, aluminum radiator, copper heater core. So on so forth so it's prudent that I make sure that the cooling system doesn't fall victim to electrolysis.

If the transmission lines are possible to be clogged, or the transmission, wouldn't that cause transmission problems with the truck??? I don't have any slipping issues or anything!
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Old 03-20-2012, 02:21 AM
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an overheated cooling system will only let the lowest tank in the radiator, which is the cooling for the transmission get a bit warmer then normal
newer vehicles have a separate cooler for the transmission, the lines don't go into the bottom of the radiator, they have there own coolant coils

you will see the radiator, a/c, & transmission cooling units in this image
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0017_large.jpg
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Old 03-20-2012, 09:35 AM
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Old 03-20-2012, 09:39 AM
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[QUOTE=Gearhead;754978]
Quote:
Originally Posted by ramvan2500 View Post
Timing isn't an exact science, so it would depend on the cam, the ecm, and how you degreed the cam.

The two most neglected systems that must be maintained is the the transmission and the cooling system. The cooling system usually doesn't last long especially when you're dealing with weak grounds or an aluminum radiator.


If the transmission lines going into the radiator are clogged, would that cause problems with my transmission?? I don't have signs of the trans slipping or any kind of defects/failure...
If the transmission cooler lines are clogged then the transmission will just get very hot and the clutches will burn out. What you can do is drive the truck around until it warms up then stop and apply the parking brake and shift the truck into drive and go put your hand on the cooler lines, if they are very warm I guess you can say hot then obviously their is transmission fluid flowing so no clog. I doubt their would be a clog because in some gears at certain speeds the pressure can build up to 150 PSI, the part in the cooler lines that would clog would only be that anti-drain back valve. Now this only applies to the older torque flites because I am unfamiliar with the newer transmissions.
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  #18  
Old 03-20-2012, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by GTyankee View Post
an overheated cooling system will only let the lowest tank in the radiator, which is the cooling for the transmission get a bit warmer then normal
newer vehicles have a separate cooler for the transmission, the lines don't go into the bottom of the radiator, they have there own coolant coils

you will see the radiator, a/c, & transmission cooling units in this image
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0017_large.jpg
What year did Chrysler stop the engine radiator for the cooler? I am unfamiliar with these newer TF's and I honestly don't like them, I think it is smart to stop using the radiator cooler because if the centric cooler sprung a leak then the transmission would get damaged.
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  #19  
Old 03-20-2012, 12:12 PM
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You know that was very spiteful. You know it's true I do nothing but try my best to help the people on this forum and do I get anything out of it, no not really.
Lol! Dude I was sincere! I went back and re-read through the thread and agreed that you also posted very useful info. Which I learned something from
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Old 03-20-2012, 04:09 PM
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Helpful Info trust me!!!

But I have a automatic transmission, those suggestions still apply??

Also, with all this great info, you think these ideas will actually solve the high rpm over heat???


I can cruise all day long, but if I punch it and hit 85+ the gauge will creep over past normal and keep climbing until I slow down, I'm guessing! I'm to scared to see if it would actually over heat as this is my everyday driver and some what of a family vehicle!

Replaced my radiator last weekend...Went with (KOYO) and also flushed the system for 10 minutes
The fan clutch was replaced two weeks ago...went with some Oreilys brand. Was told the belt looks fine...
The T-stat was replaced a year ago, fail safe or not, obviously it's some flow if it cools down after low rpm!
Water pump was replaced a year ago as well by a mechanic.

My next step is the T-stat and water pump because I didn't do it, so maybe it's screw in some way...Idk!!

All I know is that, it doesn't over heat at a stand still, or cruising at normal rpm...only high rpm!!!
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