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  #11  
Old 03-25-2012, 10:27 PM
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I'd personally go with the 4.10's. Even with the 4.7L I will most likely go to 4.10, if I had the hemi with the extra numbers I'd definitely choose 4.10.

I'd choose the gear that will get you what you want on the street, then adjust your slicks to meet the final ratio you want. You don't want to set it up for the track then have it not as driveable on the street as you'd like. Like you said, you can adjust tire size easily, but I'd adjust it on the track.

Realistically, even with 4.56 it wouldn't be that bad on the street though.
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  #12  
Old 03-25-2012, 10:42 PM
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That's exactly why I made a point of saying this is not a highway truck that will be spinning 2300 RPM in 5th gear at 70 mph for hours on end..

I only use the truck occasionally to-from work and it wont likely ever even get to 5th gear.
Getting from intersection to intersection in the city is a lot shorter than a quarter mile.
Performance>Economy are my priorities and I cant imagine why 4.10's that are barely better than 3.92's would be the best choice.

Gas milage would be the only down fall if I was spending the majority of my time at highway speeds.

My Ram is two years old and has about 12k miles on it, it is not my only vehicle.
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  #13  
Old 03-25-2012, 10:50 PM
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^I understand, but you will end up with the same final ratio either way by adjusting tire size, so it really doesn't matter which you choose. Just that with 4.56 it'll be slightly worse on the highway. I understand you don't care about that, but there's no downside to the 4.10's, so I don't know why you'd not go with them.
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  #14  
Old 03-25-2012, 10:55 PM
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You could even run like a 26" diameter slick and end up with the same final ratio as running 4.56's with your street tires. My point is it really doesn't matter for the track, you can adjust your slicks to meet the final ratio that you want, it's on the street where you don't want to run tiny or huge tires that you should gear it to what you want. That's my opinion anyway. Final ratio is what really matters. If you run 26" slicks with 3.55's vs. 32" tires with 4.10's, the 3.55 setup is "better" for the track probably, so it just sort of depends on the entire setup

Either are fine for the track, even 3.92 or 3.55 are fine for the track, you can achieve the same final ratio with tire size.

It sounds like you have talked yourself into 4.56 though.
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Old 03-25-2012, 11:12 PM
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I'd go for more rpm than 5800 thru the traps. 6300 with you're tire dia and 100 mph would work out to 4.77's. I think 4.56's would be perfect and even if a little short you'd just have to put a taller tire which would look better anyway.
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  #16  
Old 03-25-2012, 11:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snrusnak View Post

It sounds like you have talked yourself into 4.56 though.
What I'm asking for, in the "Drag Racing" section,
is performance experience/opinions from those who HAVE raced with 4.56's.
...not what gear would be more streetable.

chefred, kay-9, Randtx ? are you guys around still?
or is my question is better suited to hardcore racers at NADodge.

Yes I want to run 4.56's, why? I've done it before on other vehicles I've owned,
and because there are already many Ram's running 3.92's,
So are 4.10's going to be a significant advantage over them?, for $3000+? Hell no!

If I'm going to "upgrade", I want to pick up as much RPM as possible for the $ without going over right?, if 5900 rpm costs the same as 5300rpm, why would I waste my time and money by settling for less?

I could have upgraded my torque converter from 2300 to a stock R/T 2600
but chose to go one step further for a reason, and now I can bury them off the line with a 2800-3000 stall.

Why not do the same when it comes to re-gearing???

[edit note]...just for the record, I have only 12k miles on my 2 y/o Ram
and have 3 other vehicles to drive, all for different needs/requirements.

only requirement for this truck is to be FAST, all the time!
I run a performance tune and 94 octane all year round, 4WD in the Winter
and drive the hell out of it always...lucky to see 10MPG and I dont care
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  #17  
Old 03-26-2012, 12:03 AM
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Final ratio will be the same either way, but choose whatever you want, you asked so I'm just giving advice. If there's no difference on the track, then why would you purposely choose the option that is less streetable?

That's what's

Actually, the setup with smaller tires will be faster because the tires will be smaller which means they are lighter.

The 4.10's with the smaller tires to give the same final ratio that you would go with by having 4.56's will be better performing when run side by side. Also, 3.55's with tiny tires to give the same ratio as those above would be better performing again(as long as you can keep traction, but most likely it wouldn't be an issue with slicks, especially if you use 4wd).

I agree to go with the best option.

If you want to "upgrade" to hit a certain rpm at the gates without spending a lot of money then just change the tire size. You'd run faster with 3.55's and small tires.
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Last edited by snrusnak; 03-26-2012 at 12:05 AM.
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  #18  
Old 03-26-2012, 12:12 AM
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WTF?

final drive ratio is the same ? no difference on the track?

I already have the 28" tires, def not going smaller
so the only factor is the gearing, and I NEED a locker

4.10's = 5300 rpm at the traps
4.56' = 5900 rpm at the traps

do you not comprehend that?

my city commute is from stop light to stop light
that's actually LESS than a quarter mile.

so how is a lower gear that's better for the track, less streetable?
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Last edited by BlackRamHemi; 03-26-2012 at 12:15 AM.
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  #19  
Old 03-26-2012, 12:17 AM
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If you are not willing to change tire size then yes you must change your gear size.
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  #20  
Old 03-26-2012, 12:28 AM
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I didnt start this thread asking what tire size I should run, I'm under-geared with open diffs.
I need a rear locker to help avoid a one-tire-fire, and want to take the carrier swap opertunity to change gears at the same time.

I purposely bought a set of (4) light weight 295/45R17 DR's to drop my effective gear ratio from 3.55:1 to ~4.30:1 two years ago.

With my Drop, if I go any lower on my tire height I'm going to bottom out



I want to drop my 13.8 to mid 13's, on my DR's
and I want to be able to run my 20's occasionally and go from 14.4's to high 13's
I would like to be able to do it in 2WD whenever possible, which inst likely with an open diff now that I have a higher stall TC.

My heavy 305/50R20 Grapplers best time on 3.55's is 14.4 but traction with open rear diff is hit and miss... all terrain tires suck for traction in 1 wheel drive
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