Originally Posted by 11BFollowMe
Alright guys ive got 100 thousand miles on my baby bought it with 86 the tranny seems to be in good condition and having no issues shifting or anything. From what im told dodge trannys arent all that great so i was wondering what can i do to beaf up the tranny and avoid problems within a reasonable budget i dont want to go droppin a couple g's on a rebuild kit and as for shift kits the ones that are 50 bucks seem a little cheap to me any response would help thanks
Chrysler Transmissions the older ones are pretty good, they are known for issues mainly with operating temperature, electronics, and shift quality. The shift quality is common among the older 46RH and RE, some 47's, and a few A500 and 42's. The issue was with the 2-3 shift and reverse, the symptoms wouldn't show up until the transmission had a good 100K miles or more on it or if the fluid wasn't changed often. Their is a lip seal in the direct drum, the direct drum has a machined grove which the lip seal sits in, some of the drums were over-machined at the factory so the lip seal wasn't protruding out of the grove enough to properly seal and as the seal aged it would begin to leak alot and you would have delayed or no 2-3 shift and slipping reverse or no reverse. My 46RH from my 1995 had this issue, I had a delayed 2-3 shift and when I rebuilt it sure enough the seal base wasn't large enough to compensate for the manufacture defect.
There was no recall because of two reasons, the money due to the labor involved to replace a seal that costs 50 cents, and the symptoms didn't occur until the truck's warranty ended, pretty much.
The next issue is with the delayed 3-4 shift, simply it is a result of a broken 3-4 shift spring, if you have a transmission from 94 or earlier which you don't the spring would be .063" diameter coil, starting in 1995 Chrysler began to use .125" springs. Since you have a 01 or 02 it's going to be .125" but they still break over time.
The second factor in a slipping, delayed, or no 3-4 shift is the OD shift solenoid. This contributed to the issue with the electronics.
The shuddering some of these transmission exhibited would be from either the driveline in some models and years, but from the exhaust valve cutout on the seperater plate, and of course the TCC solenoid would fail or clog.
Now moving on to heat related issues, some of the older TF's would have cooling issues mainly with the OD unit because of oil flow, in your case it's not a big issue but I would still recommend a external transmission cooler. Installing the cooler will extend the fluid life and the overall life of the transmission.
The next thing you should do is remove the anti-drain back valve, the valve is known to clog thus stopping oil flow to the transmission. Also the valve effects pressure and volume.
Another issue with the TF's is they don't have oil flow in park, now I don't know if this accounts for the later model TF's because they did make changes since 1998. The issue is in neutral the input shaft is still going to spin a little, if there isn't a oil flow then it's going to ride on a dry bushing thus wearing the bushing out, Sonnax makes a valve to allow oil flow in park. I recommend you get two sonnax valves. Part numbers:
22771-09 Manual Valve
22771A-02K Pressure Regulator Valve
The pressure regulator valve has a built in anti-drain back valve and it also also limits the pressure to the reverse band when you put the transmission in reverse among other things too. The issue with the reverse pressure is that the pressure would be so high in reverse that the valve body would begin to cross leak making a hydraulic cyclic sound, the cross leak also would distort the valve body.
The manual valve allow oil flow in park. And reduces delayed engagements.
And of course regular fluid/filter changes are a good start.