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  #11  
Old 06-03-2012, 12:27 AM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Originally Posted by cape99ram View Post
nope
http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/12415B.html
http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/12432A.html

top is the sensor the bottom link is the solenoid.
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  #12  
Old 06-03-2012, 12:45 AM
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cape99ram cape99ram is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramvan2500 View Post
ohhh yea it need the sensor and solenoid. but what about the valve body rebuild? im sure it needs that haha its taken some abuse and is starting to shift kinda hard and late and i only wanna pull the pan once again. atf isnt cheap
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  #13  
Old 06-03-2012, 12:53 AM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Originally Posted by cape99ram View Post
ohhh yea it need the sensor and solenoid. but what about the valve body rebuild? im sure it needs that haha its taken some abuse and is starting to shift kinda hard and late and i only wanna pull the pan once again. atf isnt cheap
well you shouldn't have to use a shift kit during a rebuild. a plain valve body rebuild with new sensors and solenoids will make it shift like normal again, most times the passages get some metal powder caught and it changes the shift. if i was to replace any valves it would be the pressure regulator and manual valve to help with lube flow and prevent cross leaks, direct clutch drag in park. sonnax makes the two valves the part numbers are:

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/S22741M.html
http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/S22741P.html

yea atf+4 isn't cheap at all, just be lucky you aren't doing a full rebuild. back during christmas i rebuilt my 46rh and i ended up going through about 12+ bottles of valvoline atf+4.
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  #14  
Old 06-03-2012, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramvan2500 View Post
well you shouldn't have to use a shift kit during a rebuild. a plain valve body rebuild with new sensors and solenoids will make it shift like normal again, most times the passages get some metal powder caught and it changes the shift. if i was to replace any valves it would be the pressure regulator and manual valve to help with lube flow and prevent cross leaks, direct clutch drag in park. sonnax makes the two valves the part numbers are:

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/S22741M.html
http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/S22741P.html

yea atf+4 isn't cheap at all, just be lucky you aren't doing a full rebuild. back during christmas i rebuilt my 46rh and i ended up going through about 12+ bottles of valvoline atf+4.
okay thanks i was thinking about maybe doing headers an intake, a chip and maybe a few other small power adders if it doesnt sell soon. would a shift kit be a good idea while im in there?
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  #15  
Old 06-03-2012, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by cape99ram View Post
okay thanks i was thinking about maybe doing headers an intake, a chip and maybe a few other small power adders if it doesnt sell soon. would a shift kit be a good idea while im in there?
Personally I don't like to use shift kits during any rebuilds, replacing individual valves where needed is the best thing you could do. Shift kits or as the manufactures like to call them "recalibration kits" just have springs to change the shift points, honestly the best way to change shift point now is using the ECM when possible. Another reason why I prefer to stay away from shift kits is because if you want to modify shifts right and professionally, get yourself a lathe and makes your own valves! But anyways the choice is yours, but my opinion don't bother getting a shift kit, the torque flite actually shifts very nice when they're built right.
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  #16  
Old 06-09-2012, 02:21 PM
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sorry for the delay. i talked to a guy at my work the other day about it and he said do the sensor/solenoid and adjust the bands, a valve body rebuild wouldnt be needed. he builds a lot of high performance 47re's. he said hed do the adjustments too... i want to sell the truck, so what would be the bes option if im only keeping it another month?
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  #17  
Old 06-09-2012, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cape99ram View Post
sorry for the delay. i talked to a guy at my work the other day about it and he said do the sensor/solenoid and adjust the bands, a valve body rebuild wouldnt be needed. he builds a lot of high performance 47re's. he said hed do the adjustments too... i want to sell the truck, so what would be the bes option if im only keeping it another month?
Best option is to just adjust the bands and sell it as is if it's still working. Personally if I was keeping the truck, I would rebuild the valve body and why is because of the age of the truck I can assume it has quite a few miles on it. Well the filtering system in these transmissions aren't the best but they do fine to keep the transmission going, however after so many miles alot of powdered metal collects in the spaces in the valve body which can obstruct the valves and usually does. I have taken apart transmissions with only around 120K miles and the valve body usually is loaded with powdered metal.

I am very strong on preventative maintenance, If you take care of your truck your truck will take care of you as well. But replacing the electronics and adjusting the bands will keep it ship shape for the most part. But as I said if you're going to sell the truck why put money into it.
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  #18  
Old 06-10-2012, 02:41 AM
Screamintrashcan Screamintrashcan is offline
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I wonder if it's the throttle position sensor, my neighbor had some real weird shift problems when his became disconnected, second or third gear takeoffs, etc. but if it downshifts when you mash the motor, that isn't the problem. His TPC looked plugged in, but wasn't, the lock tab was broken, and the connector was hanging in the right place just by the memory of the wire being there so long... My 98 lets go of the "gear" it's in when I'm really yanking it around hard, I sometimes wonder if I oughtta check the length of the dipstick.
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  #19  
Old 06-10-2012, 02:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Screamintrashcan View Post
I wonder if it's the throttle position sensor, my neighbor had some real weird shift problems when his became disconnected, second or third gear takeoffs, etc. but if it downshifts when you mash the motor, that isn't the problem. His TPC looked plugged in, but wasn't, the lock tab was broken, and the connector was hanging in the right place just by the memory of the wire being there so long... My 98 lets go of the "gear" it's in when I'm really yanking it around hard, I sometimes wonder if I oughtta check the length of the dipstick.
Might be, the TPS is used mainly to know when to shift into 4th and when to downshift, also to help with proper fuel mixture.
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  #20  
Old 06-10-2012, 07:49 PM
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where exactly is the tps? sorry im more of a diesel guy haha. my friend has had tps problems in his f250 with the e4od. i think it screwed the shift points and some other stuff. and mine jumps out of gear or to first when i turn hard left. then itll start jumpin all over the place between gears. about to go to a junkyard and pick up a 5 speed
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