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Custom Dodge Ram Performance Mods - Engine - 5.2 Liter V8 Discuss modifying your Dodge Ram with Performance Parts and Accessories!


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  #11  
Old 12-26-2010, 06:29 PM
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Okiespaniels Okiespaniels is offline
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I'm sure the vehicle could be converted in a state which doesn't have any vehicle inspections or smog tests (Oklahoma is one such state). And as long as said state continues to not have these inspections you'll be fine.
Summit is correct though. They cannot legally advise you how to convert your vehicle or knowingly sell you products to do so. That would violate federal statutes and leave them liable. Performance parts are sold with the "belief" that the buyer is aware of these laws and purchases said parts that either meet federal standards or are being used on an off highway vehicle only. Perhaps for the future, that might be the way to approach the subject.
Good luck!
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  #12  
Old 12-27-2010, 10:22 PM
SyntaxNero SyntaxNero is offline
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Anyone want the complete A/C system? I am pulling that off in the next week or so, nothing wrong with it. Maybe someone local (Las Vegas) can meet me and take it off my hands.
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  #13  
Old 12-29-2010, 10:52 PM
SyntaxNero SyntaxNero is offline
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Hello.

This is Boyd from the sales department. Here is a list of parts to assist you in the change over to carbureting.

Intake manifold---Edelbrock 7577. This is for the late model Magnum cylinder heads. I have included a link to the instruction sheet for this item.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7577/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7577/?rtype=1

The following parts are required for installation of the manifold.

DCC-4876850--- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-4876850/
DCC-4876313--- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-4876313/
EDL-7277--------- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7277/

Carburetor models 1407 (manual choke) and 1411 (electric choke) are what I would recommend for your vehicle.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-1407/ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-1411/

A Mallory 4309 fuel pressure regulator will allow you to use the factory in tank EFI pump and reduce the fuel pressure to carburetor requirements. This will require additional fittings to connect to your existing feed and return lines. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-4309/

The following distributor package will allow interchange from the computer controlled distributor.
SUM-850003 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-850003/

We offer several different styles of aftermarket instruments that can be used. This link is generic, but it will connect you to all of the gauges, brands, and styles I offer.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc

There will be a bit of wiring need to be done to compete this conversion. Unfortunately, I do not have a conversion harness or know of any other supplier that does.

If you have any other questions, please let me know.

Thanks,

Summit Racing Sales
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  #14  
Old 01-05-2011, 12:29 PM
djcwardog djcwardog is offline
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An intriguing project - especially if you can find the performance parts used and keep costs down.

Your truck is a 1994 so it is likely OBD-1 (simpler systems than when they went to OBD-II in 1996). You basically need fuel, air and spark for the motor to run. Never mind any motor-related "codes" that may get thrown if you somehow are able to retain the stock computer as you will be removing the light bulb in the cluster behind the Check Engine Light anyway...

Fuel - modify existing lines and pumps to get fuel up to the front and into your 4bbl carb (see Factory Service Manual to learn the details of your stock system).

Air - simple - 4bbl carb accepts old-school open element air filter, problem solved there.

Spark - more fun: you need to adapt a distributor to work on the Magnum motor and get it wired in and timed right, bypassing the computer.

Other issues - your speedo, anti-lock brakes, etc... all probably rely on your computer so you will need to be creative in retaining what systems you need to run as you go old-school on the motor. Systems analysis will show you what you either need to live without or adapt to work.

This may be heretical to write, but the GM/Chevy crowd is all over adapting their modern LS series of V-8's into older platforms using carbs and distributors while integrating them into the computer systems of their cars otherwise. Lots to learn there - and it is not necessarily a "deperformance" mod to do it. I have not seen the latest MOPAR performance parts catalog but they may by now also be offering items of intrest to you in this project.
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  #15  
Old 01-05-2011, 07:55 PM
SyntaxNero SyntaxNero is offline
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I have a question. On summits website it shows that the Edelbrock 7577 - Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap Intake Manifolds will fit all the below engines. So are the heads and intakes (anything else?) all inter changeable between the below ????
Would make JunkYard searches that much easier...

Will a standard 4 barrel mount to the stock intake?

Make DODGE
Engine Type V8
Engine Size 5.2L/318
Liter 5.2
CID 318
Beginning Year 1992
Ending Year 2003
Engine Family Mopar small block Magnum
Carburetor Mounting 4-barrel square bore
Cylinder Head Style Magnum

Make DODGE
Engine Type V8
Engine Size 5.9L/360
Liter 5.9
CID 360
Beginning Year 1992
Ending Year 2003
Engine Family Mopar small block Magnum
Carburetor Mounting 4-barrel square bore
Cylinder Head Style Magnum

Make JEEP
Engine Type V8
Engine Size 5.2L/318
Liter 5.2
CID 318
Beginning Year 1993
Ending Year 1998
Engine Family Mopar small block Magnum
Carburetor Mounting 4-barrel square bore
Cylinder Head Style Magnum

Make JEEP
Engine Type V8
Engine Size 5.9L/360
Liter 5.9
CID 360
Beginning Year 1998
Ending Year 1998
Engine Family Mopar small block Magnum
Carburetor Mounting 4-barrel square bore
Cylinder Head Style Magnum
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  #16  
Old 07-03-2012, 07:02 PM
SyntaxNero SyntaxNero is offline
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Ok folks, I know its been a while. I have almost completed the conversion.
I went with the Edelbrock 7577 Intake manifold, Holley 670 SA Carb, Summit SUM-850003 Distributor, Painless Wiring Harness, pacesetter headers and misc junkyard parts. New NV3500 transmission. I fabed up a one off fuel pick up from a diesel fuel tank I found at the junkyard. Figured out how to fiberglass and made me a custom dash.



Now I am stuck… I need help. The fracking Alternator…



On the 1994 Dodge Ram 1500 trucks the ECM controls the Alternator by sending 5vdc to the Field terminals.I no longer have an ECM.


Control:
Alternator disconnected, truck will fire up and idle all day long, drove it around the block a few times. Didn’t go to far but kept it running for 45 minutes or so.

Try#1
I went and got a 12vdc to 5vdc converter and wired up the Field flash, fired up the truck and got 13.8vdc on the battery. The truck ran fine for about 20 seconds, sputtered and died. The alternator was hot to the touch.

Try#2
I got an external voltage regulator (1960ish style) wired it up thinking that maybe it would act like the ECM. The truck ran fine for about 20 seconds, sputtered and died. The alternator was hot to the touch.

I have looked for one wire alternator with the same mounting tabs as this stock one and no joy. Can anyone please help me figure out how to wire this so it works or link me to an aftermarket mounting kit so I can use a GM one wire.
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  #17  
Old 07-03-2012, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SyntaxNero View Post
Just chalk me up as one of them "nut jobs" that is concerned with the coming possibility of an electromagnetic pulse.
Well...all I can say is if you are really worried about an EMP, then I hope you put a points distributor and not any kind of electronic ignition, as the control box for it would go bye bye.
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  #18  
Old 07-03-2012, 11:10 PM
SyntaxNero SyntaxNero is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HemiLonestar View Post
Well...all I can say is if you are really worried about an EMP, then I hope you put a points distributor and not any kind of electronic ignition, as the control box for it would go bye bye.
I have a faraday cage installed in the truck with replacement parts that will/may burn out. Everything is setup for a quick change. All my wires are shielded and grounded.

and for those that say this mod will cause a loss in power... I can burn the tires to fourth gear, cant even use first without smokin the crap outta my tires.

Just need help getting the alternator issue fixed. Not gonna get into a flame war about this. If its not EMP it will be CME. one way or the other, I have a great truck, more power then I know what to do with, and if SHTF, Ill be mobile. Its a Win-Win-Win for me.
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  #19  
Old 07-04-2012, 06:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SyntaxNero View Post
Ok folks, I know its been a while. I have almost completed the conversion.
I went with the Edelbrock 7577 Intake manifold, Holley 670 SA Carb, Summit SUM-850003 Distributor, Painless Wiring Harness, pacesetter headers and misc junkyard parts. New NV3500 transmission. I fabed up a one off fuel pick up from a diesel fuel tank I found at the junkyard. Figured out how to fiberglass and made me a custom dash.



Now I am stuck… I need help. The fracking Alternator…



On the 1994 Dodge Ram 1500 trucks the ECM controls the Alternator by sending 5vdc to the Field terminals.I no longer have an ECM.


Control:
Alternator disconnected, truck will fire up and idle all day long, drove it around the block a few times. Didn’t go to far but kept it running for 45 minutes or so.

Try#1
I went and got a 12vdc to 5vdc converter and wired up the Field flash, fired up the truck and got 13.8vdc on the battery. The truck ran fine for about 20 seconds, sputtered and died. The alternator was hot to the touch.

Try#2
I got an external voltage regulator (1960ish style) wired it up thinking that maybe it would act like the ECM. The truck ran fine for about 20 seconds, sputtered and died. The alternator was hot to the touch.

I have looked for one wire alternator with the same mounting tabs as this stock one and no joy. Can anyone please help me figure out how to wire this so it works or link me to an aftermarket mounting kit so I can use a GM one wire.
Have you tried going with a Generator and not an Alternator? I am not entirely sure of the difference, except that I believe the Generator powers only the battery. Pretty sure the alternator "alternates" between providing power to the battery and the truck. Voltage regulator could work better if you installed an in-line capacitor...but there again you might not be shielded from EMP.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SyntaxNero View Post
I have a faraday cage installed in the truck with replacement parts that will/may burn out. Everything is setup for a quick change. All my wires are shielded and grounded.

and for those that say this mod will cause a loss in power... I can burn the tires to fourth gear, cant even use first without smokin the crap outta my tires.

Just need help getting the alternator issue fixed. Not gonna get into a flame war about this. If its not EMP it will be CME. one way or the other, I have a great truck, more power then I know what to do with, and if SHTF, Ill be mobile. Its a Win-Win-Win for me.
Damn, you sound prepared. IMO though, I would have just bought an 85 or so Ram 150 or 250 for $1,000 and called it a day! LOL.
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Last edited by ArmyofOne; 07-04-2012 at 06:15 AM.
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  #20  
Old 07-04-2012, 03:03 PM
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HemiLonestar HemiLonestar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyofOne View Post
Have you tried going with a Generator and not an Alternator? I am not entirely sure of the difference, except that I believe the Generator powers only the battery. Pretty sure the alternator "alternates" between providing power to the battery and the truck. Voltage regulator could work better if you installed an in-line capacitor...but there again you might not be shielded from EMP.



Damn, you sound prepared. IMO though, I would have just bought an 85 or so Ram 150 or 250 for $1,000 and called it a day! LOL.
It's called an alternator because it provides alternating current power (AC). Old school generators in cars made DC power.

I would've gotten the older Ram and dropped a 383-400-440 in it and called it a day.
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