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Custom Dodge Ram Performance Mods - Engine - 4.7 Liter V8 Discuss modifying your Dodge Ram with Performance Parts and Accessories!
Factory Spec: 4.7-liter V8 engine - 310 horsepower, 330 lb-ft of torque.


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  #11  
Old 09-25-2009, 01:30 AM
wermbang wermbang is offline
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Yeah I needed to do something different with the hanger.
My filter is a spectre, $25 at autozone.
I have painted the above pipe. (pics below) and I also went and bought another pipe, it is getting custom painted now. My wife's uncle does airbrushing. I will post new pics when he is done with it.
Here is what it looks like now. It is chipped because I dropped it riht before I installed it. I am sure someone is gonna make fun of my heat shield too. I need to buy one of those universal ones. Its just a furnace pipe cut with thermal tape on it.




Oh yeah I am around 12 mpg, which I still need to due a tune up yet.
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  #12  
Old 09-25-2009, 09:44 AM
JR23 JR23 is offline
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Default Home made CAI

So are you really gaining from 3" to 4" on the filter and pipe? What about the talk of temp drop from filter TB. How much are you gaining or losing? I can understand the principle of more air is better, but is my little 4.7 really getting this cool shot of air from top side of the motor as I've seen in many applications? I looked at the BFI and wow, it is pricey for my budget. I see it goes in a taper from about 6" to 3" and appears to get its air from a lower position. So why not take the pipe closer to the bottom of the front clip? I see a great opening all the way to the ground just behind the radiator. Sure looks like a great spot to catch some fresh air
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  #13  
Old 09-25-2009, 10:17 AM
wermbang wermbang is offline
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You could just do two pipes!!!





Or here is another homebrew I found. A BFI on the cheap.

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  #14  
Old 09-25-2009, 11:25 AM
SpokaneDodge SpokaneDodge is offline
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Might as well throw mine up 4.7



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  #15  
Old 09-25-2009, 01:57 PM
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What do you do with the vacuum tube that is attached to the stock air box? And what is the sensor inside that box? Is it a temperature or 02?
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  #16  
Old 09-25-2009, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leadfootluke View Post
Not, it is legitimate. But how long does that air stay in the tube? Long enough to be changing several degrees? And the IAT is compensating the timing all along. There has been a lot of testing done in regards to intake composition. Metal is not bad. The BFI is 16ga. and Powdercoated, you should have no worries.

And x2 on a PVC intake unfinished, lol.
Luke, I am sure we agree and you nailed it w/ coated piping, what my thought revolves around isn't dyno sheets as much as real world red-light to-red-light driving...but that creates so much heat and heat soak its a big loss to power. The metal to plastic diff of 2 hp in a truck this weight is inconsequential.
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Old 09-25-2009, 02:52 PM
Leadfootluke Leadfootluke is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregInAtl View Post
Luke, I am sure we agree and you nailed it w/ coated piping, what my thought revolves around isn't dyno sheets as much as real world red-light to-red-light driving...but that creates so much heat and heat soak its a big loss to power. The metal to plastic diff of 2 hp in a truck this weight is inconsequential.
Yes. Sitting at a traffic light, or at the track, heatsoak is a killer! Timing is pulled and you will lose power otherwise. Air moving through the intake is not heating up due to the composition though. It is starting hot because it is pulling air from the engine bay where the air will be hotter. Once the vehicle is in motion, The air going into the engine is back to ambient as long as outside air can make it to the filter. That is why when you design your own intake, make sure it is getting air from a pocket where fresh air is available. A filter on the TB may sounds smart, but there is no velocity to the air entering, as well as the temperature of that air is ridiculously hot.
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Old 09-25-2009, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JR23 View Post
......appears to get its air from a lower position. So why not take the pipe closer to the bottom of the front clip? I see a great opening all the way to the ground just behind the radiator. Sure looks like a great spot to catch some fresh air
You don't want to go to low or you will risk the chance of introducing water into you intake and into your motor.
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  #19  
Old 09-25-2009, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leadfootluke View Post
Yes. Sitting at a traffic light, or at the track, heatsoak is a killer! Timing is pulled and you will lose power otherwise. Air moving through the intake is not heating up due to the composition though. It is starting hot because it is pulling air from the engine bay where the air will be hotter. Once the vehicle is in motion, The air going into the engine is back to ambient as long as outside air can make it to the filter. That is why when you design your own intake, make sure it is getting air from a pocket where fresh air is available. A filter on the TB may sounds smart, but there is no velocity to the air entering, as well as the temperature of that air is ridiculously hot.
Yup, I am so used to turbo cars (i have had 5) that I always consider movement from dead stop, and heat soak is the enemy, so N20 on the intercooler or a tiny shot to get you in motion are important. So between velocity vs volume equation, temp is a third very important issue.
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  #20  
Old 09-26-2009, 08:37 AM
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After seeing some of these custom mods I just had to go out and give it a try myself. Here's where I am at so far. I got the 4" K&N cone filter, and used 4" PVC for the majority of the piping. I just have to connect the sensor back into the piping, and figure out how to hook that vacuum hose back on. And then will be the fun part, painting. Still up in the air about what color to choose.
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