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Oil Change Ready to change the oil in your Dodge Ram? Engine -Trans - Differential - Transfer Case


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  #31  
Old 07-14-2012, 09:38 PM
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My momma always said oil change advise is like a box of chocolates. You never know what you're going to get.
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  #32  
Old 07-14-2012, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEVERDUN View Post
"OIL GOES BAD JUST LIKE MILK" WTF.......It's a couple of million years old before they pull it out of the ground! Seriously???????????????
I'm looking for oil change tip and I get this nonsense!
Where is the ignore button on this forum?
If you honestly believe that oil goes bad from sitting, how long do you think it sat in that bottle before you bought it? Where is the expiration date on the bottle? Are you supposed to shake it up before you pour it out? Good luck with that.
Actually yes; to agitate the additives.

Quote:
Does motor oil expire? How long does motor oil generally last?

Valvoline motor oil does not have a documented expiration date. Under optimal conditions, the product is stable for an extended period of time and can be used as long as the American Petroleum Institute (API) rating on the label continues to meet or exceed the requirements listed in your owner's manual. If the rating is still current, shake the container before use to blend any additives that may have settled.
Source -- http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-...ral-motor-oil/

.... and more-n-more manufacturers are recommending this approach.

Oh, and up until a few years ago, Valvoline was widely know in the automotive industry for having expiration dates stamped onto their engine oil bottles. Why no more? Additives.
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  #33  
Old 07-14-2012, 10:25 PM
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Im getting a headache
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  #34  
Old 07-14-2012, 10:28 PM
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read what blkmkr posted, out of the manual. Doesn't necessarily say to change the oil early, but it will help keep the engine cleaner as it breaks in.
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  #35  
Old 07-15-2012, 01:01 AM
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Here's another one out of the manual:

Based on engine operation conditions the oil change
indicator message will illuminate. This means that service
is required for your vehicle. Have your vehicle
serviced as soon as possible, within the next 500 miles
(805 km).
NOTE:
• The oil change indicator message will not monitor the
time since the last oil change. Change your vehicle’s
oil if it has been six months since your last oil change
even if the oil change indicator message is NOT
illuminated.
• Change your engine oil more often if you drive your
vehicle off-road for an extended period of time.
• Under no circumstances should oil change intervals
exceed 8,000 miles (13 000 km) or six months, whichever
comes first.

They warranty these engines to 100,000 miles. These intervals are all that is needed. I looked mine up and it was actually 9 months from the time it was built until I purchased it, so the oil should have been changed before I even bought it. I wish I would have thought of that at the time because they said my first oil change was free, but the dealer is 3.5 hours from where I live so that didn't do me any good. I hit 2500 miles 3 weeks after I bought it and did it then. I'm doing the next one when I hit 7500 miles just to get at the every 7500 mile oil change(easy to remember). I had an 01 Suburban that I changed every 5,000 to 6,000 that I had done at wherever was cheap with regular oil. Traded it off with 242,000 miles and the engine ran just as good as new and only used about a half quart between changes.
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  #36  
Old 07-15-2012, 11:19 AM
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This debate will never end.

I have spent many years building motors for all types of vehicles, and a lot of those motors cost more than our trucks (30-50k). The modern oil and break in process are much different than even 10 years ago. The assembly lube used is not the same as it used to be. The alloys and metal of the components is more consistent. The variables are endless. I don't mess with all of this break in on a new car. I have looked over a lot of the auto makers pfmea's and they have figured for everything before giving any broad recomendations. All their intervals have a huge safety buffer built in.

I change my oil every 5k miles, but that is just because of habit.

As for longevity, my 2003 Saab went 387000 miles, I sold my C32 with 143000 with 0 oil consumption.

Basically, do what you want, but adhering to the factory recommended intervals will have no adverse effects.
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  #37  
Old 07-20-2012, 03:24 PM
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Um...jumpin in just for kicks... Have no idea what the mfg are doing at the factory these days. As AJ says above the assembly lube is not what it used to be. Used to be moly for the cam, lifters and rockers and STP for the cylinders and crank. Then you filled it with oil. Used to be mineral based oils for break in so the detergents wouldn't wipe the cylinder walls clean. They are using way low viscosity oil for breakin which tells me they're at much closer tolerances than they used to be. Lost foam casting and the automated machining has these motors a whole lot tighter. (which is actually truly an assumption on my part). Break in used to start with prime the pump and circulate the oil with a drill before cranking. Don't shut the motor down for 20 minutes after firing keeping it at about 1500-1700 and steady loaded for the cam and lifters to mate. Then you'd start blipping it to flush the rings. If the factory starts these motors on a stand prior to installation that's what they are trying to accomplish besides leaks, circulation, and pressure. Keep in mind also iron is pourous and it indeed needs to get into the pores, in particular the cylinder walls, moreso than all the nooks (nukes? LOL, Hey just havin fun) and crannies.

I agree that on many of these vehicles we have no idea how long they have been sitting. Thanks to the hour meter we do know how long they have run and can compare that to mileage to have an idea about idling time. Since this is the case it would not hurt to change the oil at a lesser interval. The main culprit to me would be possible moisture from condensation. Maybe thats why guys are seeing milky white when draining. Fresh oil will never do any damage except to the pocketbook.

And I'll throw a question out there...

I "feel" (which I know is subjective), the mfg recommending 5W20 is more about emissions and cafe than preserving motors. I'm a little concerned about putting less than 10W40 in my motor with the heat wave we're experiencing in the Mid Atlantic. From what I've been told oil is more for heat transfer and cushioning than friction reduction. These mfg are raising the thermostats and lowering the viscosity to get that temp up to burn the emissions up. Hell I can't even put my truck in gear without clanking the u joints hard because of the high idle when it's cold. Got to wait about a minute to put it in gear. Anyways oils well that ends well!
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