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Old 07-28-2012, 07:44 PM
z28oc91 z28oc91 is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Chicago
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Vehicle: 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 ST
Trim Level: ST
Color: Black
Engine: 1998-2001 360ci (5.9L) Magnum V8 245hp(standard), 250hp(Sport package)
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Default What to do

hey guys whats going on, i just bought a 1999 Ram 1500, ST. i am not new to cars but new to trucks so i have a couple of questions. the car is 4x4 with 127xxx on it. to start off i am going to do full tune up, drain radiator, clean up the engine, and check to make sure the battery is good. the overall suspension looks to be in pretty good shape for a chicago car. the leaf and coil springs seem to be not in bad condition. i guess my qeustions are what are something i should start looking for to make sure this truck is going to last me. im thinking ball joints next but any other suspension components? as the same for the engine and trans/ t case. any help would be greatly appreciated. i cant wait to start driving my new truck =)
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Old 07-28-2012, 10:29 PM
crazychevy88 crazychevy88 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: south jersey
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Vehicle: 2004 dodge ram
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Engine: 2003-2008 345ci (5.7L) Hemi V8 345hp 375lb/ft
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I just had to replace the front hub bearings in my 04 hemi, but i was also recently was t-boned. that was the only problem I've had suspension wise.
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Old 07-29-2012, 01:12 AM
Screamintrashcan Screamintrashcan is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Alston, MI (BRRrrr)The shores of Gitche Gume
Age: 57
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Vehicle: 95 & 98 1500 Ram 4x4s
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Replace the brake lines, first to go will be the one to the rear tee fitting, just aft of the fuel tank, don't bother to remove the old one, just shove another between the frame and tank. Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth a little, and watch the track rod at the drivers side, the ballsocket should not be sloppy. if so, look up lukes link on the web, it also works on the long tierod, if that joint is shot. Much less$$ than the entire rods and rebuildable. If you still have rocker panels, spray the inside of them with undercoating, drill a few holes in them and spot putty over the holes when finished, they disappear from the inside out, as do the rear wheel arches, the top 2/3rds of each, due to the foamy stuff that the factory put there to stop rattles, it absorbs salt water, and they disappear from the inside out, as well. At a minimum, rinse the crap out of the wheel arches, regularly. Lube the spring on the secondary hood latch, so it grabs something when you close the hood, otherwise, at some point, it'll open up and destroy itself at highway speeds, eventually. Also lube the spring on the belt tensioner once in awhile, salt will seize it up, if it doesn't see some oil once in awhile. check very carefully the front axle joints, as well as the rear joint on the front driveshaft, (double cardan joint) the ballsocket should have NO slop in it when prying on it. Theres other stuff, but thats a good start to a trouble free ride.
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