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Custom Dodge Ram Performance Mods - Engine - 5.7 HEMI V8 Discuss modifying your Dodge Ram with Performance Parts and Accessories!
Factory Spec: 5.7-liter HEMI® V8 engine - 390 horsepower, 407 lb-ft of torque.


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  #21  
Old 08-16-2012, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
I can swap gear sets, but we do not have the tuning capability to tell the TCM that the gear ratios have changed. Without that tuning, you would get a gear ratio mismatch trouble code....
Thanks for the info. That's unfortunate, I'd love to have the other ratios, much better IMO. Personally I don't need a stronger trans for my 4.7L that is NA but good to know you can do this for the other guys.
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  #22  
Old 08-16-2012, 06:51 PM
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Build a front mount kit. You will get fed up and build one eventually, so you might as well just start there. Follow the lessons other's have learnt the expensive way.
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  #23  
Old 08-16-2012, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by FrostKing View Post
Build a front mount kit. You will get fed up and build one eventually, so you might as well just start there. Follow the lessons other's have learnt the expensive way.
do you have any pics?
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  #24  
Old 08-16-2012, 07:29 PM
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nothing wrong with a remote mount... just keep away from puddles
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  #25  
Old 08-16-2012, 07:33 PM
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the filter will be mounted over the fuel tank
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  #26  
Old 08-16-2012, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrostKing View Post
Build a front mount kit. You will get fed up and build one eventually, so you might as well just start there. Follow the lessons other's have learnt the expensive way.
I have been running a pair mid-mounted for 2 years with zero problems.

Please elaborate on the lessons learned by others...
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  #27  
Old 08-19-2012, 03:32 PM
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Loving this thread!
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  #28  
Old 08-19-2012, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgh View Post
I have been running a pair mid-mounted for 2 years with zero problems.

Please elaborate on the lessons learned by others...
1. The turbos will create enough heat under the box to melt a bed-liner or bedrug.
2. Rear mounts will also be more laggy than an equal size front mount. This can be counter-acted by running a smaller turbine, which in turn creates huge back pressure at higher RPMs. Rear mounts will not be as capable of both high and low RPM performance.
3. Relying on a oil return pump is also a ticking time bomb. Even with the pump working perfectly there are situations where oil with get past the turbo seals and into the piping. i.e.. Parking on a moderate to large slope. The life of the turbo or engine relay on a small electrical motor and fuses that generally are never 100% water/corrosion proof.
4. Rear mounts also make a water cooled turbo very impractical and this is the only way to have a long lasting setup.
5. In below freezing weather, condensation will build up in the oil return lines and the crankcase will become contaminated with water in very little time. (I don't have a clue how this one happens, but myself and 2 others have experienced this)
6. Any crankcase pressure at all will stop flow from your scavenger pump and all the oil will go out the tailpipe. The same crankcase pressure on a front mount with have no effect.
7. The long oil supply line can be easily damaged or restricted ruining a good turbo. ($1800 in my case)
8. Rear mount setups have nothing for the viewing public.

I've run 3 different rear mounts on this truck, since 2006, and converted to a front mount last fall. I couldn't be happier.
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  #29  
Old 08-20-2012, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrostKing View Post
1. The turbos will create enough heat under the box to melt a bed-liner or bedrug.
2. Rear mounts will also be more laggy than an equal size front mount. This can be counter-acted by running a smaller turbine, which in turn creates huge back pressure at higher RPMs. Rear mounts will not be as capable of both high and low RPM performance.
3. Relying on a oil return pump is also a ticking time bomb. Even with the pump working perfectly there are situations where oil with get past the turbo seals and into the piping. i.e.. Parking on a moderate to large slope. The life of the turbo or engine relay on a small electrical motor and fuses that generally are never 100% water/corrosion proof.
4. Rear mounts also make a water cooled turbo very impractical and this is the only way to have a long lasting setup.
5. In below freezing weather, condensation will build up in the oil return lines and the crankcase will become contaminated with water in very little time. (I don't have a clue how this one happens, but myself and 2 others have experienced this)
6. Any crankcase pressure at all will stop flow from your scavenger pump and all the oil will go out the tailpipe. The same crankcase pressure on a front mount with have no effect.
7. The long oil supply line can be easily damaged or restricted ruining a good turbo. ($1800 in my case)
8. Rear mount setups have nothing for the viewing public.

I've run 3 different rear mounts on this truck, since 2006, and converted to a front mount last fall. I couldn't be happier.
thanks for the reply and I appreciate the insight. sounds like you've been thru a bunch a different setups.

did you look at my picture in post 20? I'd be willing to bet that my hotside is no longer (if not shorter) than a front mount that also runs off stock exhaust manifolds/JBA shorties. I've compared my hotside to twin setups on Grand Cherokees SRT8s and some single LX & mustang setups and I have less hotside piping. I'm not sure how else to convey that this isn't a rear mount setup...but a midmount at best. Once everything is complete I'll post a video of the whole system.

I've also included another picture here becuase the bottom of the area chosen for the turbo (under the cab) comes lined for heat protection from the factory. As a backup I've also ordered a 12"x24" piece of Thermo-bac to double up that area. If you don't think that barrier would be sufficient I could always throw a turbo blanket over it too. thoughts?

this will be a Florida truck so hills/inclines and freezing temps won't be factor but I guess I'll have to wait and see.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Gabe_030.jpg (45.5 KB, 121 views)
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Last edited by CHVYKLR; 08-20-2012 at 10:02 AM.
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  #30  
Old 08-20-2012, 09:53 AM
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That looks like a better choice than a traditional rear setup. If possible, design the piping to allow transmission removal without pulling the turbo out. (you will appreciate this later) I still think a scavenger pump is unnecessary in a Ram as we have tons more room under the hood than a LX or Jeep.
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Last edited by FrostKing; 08-20-2012 at 09:55 AM.
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