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  #1  
Old 09-07-2012, 09:45 PM
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05ram4x4 05ram4x4 is offline
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Default Replaced governor sensor and solenoid? Now trans is acting up

I replaced the governor pressure sensor and solenoid. That is what I believe I replaced anyway. During that process, I tried to remove the valve body to change that set of wires, and gave up half way through because I couldn't figure out how to get it out. I tightened up the bolts and torx screws pretty tight. I didn't torque them because I didn't know I had to, if I do. Now, When I put it in drive and park and neutral or 1 or 2, it seems fine. Reverse is the worst. It makes a sound. It's hard to describe though. Another problem is that it seems to shift out of drive or reverse randomly. I drove up and down the driveway back and forth, and most of the time it shifted back and forth no problem. Sometimes after I went forward it would act as if it was in neutral. I give it gas o move and it just revs. Then when I shift into reverse it takes about 5 or 10 seconds until it finally shifts. What is the problem? Could low transmission fluid cause it? I'm sorry if i'm confusing you, but I'm kind of confused myself haha. If you need any clarification, please let me know.
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  #2  
Old 09-07-2012, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97ram4x4 View Post
I replaced the governor pressure sensor and solenoid. That is what I believe I replaced anyway. During that process, I tried to remove the valve body to change that set of wires, and gave up half way through because I couldn't figure out how to get it out. I tightened up the bolts and torx screws pretty tight. I didn't torque them because I didn't know I had to, if I do. Now, When I put it in drive and park and neutral or 1 or 2, it seems fine. Reverse is the worst. It makes a sound. It's hard to describe though. Another problem is that it seems to shift out of drive or reverse randomly. I drove up and down the driveway back and forth, and most of the time it shifted back and forth no problem. Sometimes after I went forward it would act as if it was in neutral. I give it gas o move and it just revs. Then when I shift into reverse it takes about 5 or 10 seconds until it finally shifts. What is the problem? Could low transmission fluid cause it? I'm sorry if i'm confusing you, but I'm kind of confused myself haha. If you need any clarification, please let me know.

Well low fluid can cause issues so check the fluid with the trucked being warmed up for ATLEAST 15 minutes.

Now the sound in reverse though you cannot describe may be PR valve buzz and it's apparent in reverse due to cross leakage from high pressure, now since you didn't properly torque the valve body like you're suppose to you probably have some cross leakage causing the issue, now if you are thinking well sometimes it works sometimes it doesn, thermal expansion. And be careful tightening anything on a transmission, everything that holds a screw is aluminum and you have no idea how easy it is to strip threads and cause hair line cracks down threads and I have learned about that the hard way my first time I ever touched a transmission but now that I have learned and I build them I know exactly what to and not to do! So go to harbor freight buy yourself a inch lbs torque wrench and a ft-lbs torque wrench it is the best investment you will ever make in your life because that tool will save you so much money, overtightening will cause more damage then not tightening enough. I cracked a bell housing one time overtightening a fitting in a transmission, so I have to replace the bell housing. I have snapped grade 5 bolts up to 1/4 inch with just a plane old socket wrench so for someone like me it was the smartest thing that torque wrench, I have cracked throttle bodies you name it I broke it lol...

Anyways check the fluid and go back get a torque wrench and check up on the valve body, the bolts should be torqued to 100 INCH LBS
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  #3  
Old 09-08-2012, 08:59 AM
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Thanks! I will get those wrenches. So I tighten the 7/16 bolts and the t25 bolts all to 100 inch pounds? Or just the 7/16 bolts? Since I have to drop the pan again, how do I get the valve body out completely. i took out all of the bolts that I could see but it doesn't seem to come out. Please help, i want it done with. There was one thread on how to do this, but the pics are gone. I need pics! They are such a huge help!
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Old 09-08-2012, 02:03 PM
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Alright so today, I let it warm up for 20 minutes or so then check the level in neutral. Turn out it was really low. SO I added another 3 quarts, and now it's fine. I guess that may have been the problem. Doesn't at up anymore, no buzz anymore either. I took it out for a spin and it drove just fine.
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Old 09-08-2012, 04:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97ram4x4 View Post
Thanks! I will get those wrenches. So I tighten the 7/16 bolts and the t25 bolts all to 100 inch pounds? Or just the 7/16 bolts? Since I have to drop the pan again, how do I get the valve body out completely. i took out all of the bolts that I could see but it doesn't seem to come out. Please help, i want it done with. There was one thread on how to do this, but the pics are gone. I need pics! They are such a huge help!
The 7/16 bolts should be torqued to 100 inch lbs, the T25 screws should be torqued to 35 inch lbs. As for removing the valve body, you just have to remove the shift linkage, disconnect the electronic connectors, then remove the 7/16 bolts there is going to be like 10 or so I don't count them while I install them lol and then there is a rod that is connected to the valve body it's a parking paw, you just have to remove the e-clip that retains it then the valve body should come out, DON'T pull it out, you're going to want to use a soft mallet and tap on the connector that is on the top of the case. Be sure to remove the neutral safety switch before trying to remove the valve body so you don't cause any damage to the isolator.
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Old 09-08-2012, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97ram4x4 View Post
Alright so today, I let it warm up for 20 minutes or so then check the level in neutral. Turn out it was really low. SO I added another 3 quarts, and now it's fine. I guess that may have been the problem. Doesn't at up anymore, no buzz anymore either. I took it out for a spin and it drove just fine.
Well there ya go, it was fluid just like I said check fluid first. The reasons why you want to check fluid when engine and trans is all warmed up is because the torque converter has to fill and that can take about 3-4 quarts, then the cooler and valve body and lines. Also the fluid expands a little when warm.
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Old 09-08-2012, 04:43 PM
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Thank you so much for the help. I still need to go back and recheck the pan bolts. Do those need to be torqued?
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Old 09-08-2012, 05:55 PM
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Thank you so much for the help. I still need to go back and recheck the pan bolts. Do those need to be torqued?
14 ft-lbs torque
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  #9  
Old 09-08-2012, 05:57 PM
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Thank you for the help!
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  #10  
Old 09-08-2012, 06:06 PM
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Thank you for the help!
not a problem, keep your eyes on the fluid level especially since it's an older truck.
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