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  #11  
Old 09-11-2012, 09:58 PM
cjdakota cjdakota is offline
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It is your boost level that determines your need for head studs, on my truck I would be pushing my limit somewhere after 40lbs of boost. If you have guages and the Smarty is turned up to fuel hard and lower than it will drive your boost up until it lights, so adjust it accordingly. I run Smarty on 5 and fueling box lower soit never gets higher than 40lbs
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Old 09-11-2012, 10:53 PM
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if you have an auto a stage one b&m shift kit would be a good idea to help protect your trans. the stage 2 is driveshaft snapping shifts and not good for a daily driver but the stage one makes it shift faster reducing slip which reduces heat and wear without making a real uncomfortable ride.
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Old 09-12-2012, 04:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StevanA View Post
If I get a tuner to increase power do I need to get head studs?
The simple answer is NO, but this question is way to vague to give an accurate answer. There are a lot of variables to take into account. If you are smart with the power you can easily run a big tune (180hp on the MM) with no issues at all, or on the flip side you can run the mild 60hp tune, drive it like you stole it and pop a head gasket in no time. You can pop a head gasket even without a tuner if you don't treat the truck properly...(I.E fire it up, mash the gas while towing 10K on a cold engine)..

Quote:
Originally Posted by 79ta View Post
The weak link will be the transmission for any tune over 100hp if its an automatic. I have heard of guys running a 170hp tune without issue and guys running a 100hp tune and had trans trouble. Your driving habits will have the biggest effect on parts failing.
Couldn't agree more with the last sentence. I run the "wild 120hp" tune on my truck daily and the "Hot Damn 180hp" tune on road trips for fuel savings. I also have the overdrive transmission software to help my tranny live a longer life.

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Originally Posted by Poriggity View Post
As has been said, the weak part is gonna be the trans if it's an auto.. While head studs SOUND cool, they are really not needed until you get to the crazy high power setups and twin turbos.
Scott
I wouldn't go as far as to say that they are not needed until you go crazy high with the power set-up. The VGT turbos don't flow the best on the exhaust side so they tend to create a lot of exhaust back pressure (EBP) which is a contributing killer of head gaskets. The general census seems to be about 45psi EBP is about the safe limit. With my MM set on mild (60hp) I was seeing spikes of up over 50psi EBP with 32psi of boost, running an advanced turbo tuning tune(ATT) (default tune that comes on the H&S MM). If not managed that could easily lead to head gasket failure. Ive since switched to a non-ATT tune and run the Wild (120hp) setting and only see spikes (if I really get on it) upwards of 45psi EBP with 34psi of boost...much better IMO. The EBP to boost ratio is closer to 1:1 with my current tune as opposed to the 1.5:1 ratio with the old tune.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cjdakota View Post
It is your boost level that determines your need for head studs, on my truck I would be pushing my limit somewhere after 40lbs of boost. If you have guages and the Smarty is turned up to fuel hard and lower than it will drive your boost up until it lights, so adjust it accordingly. I run Smarty on 5 and fueling box lower soit never gets higher than 40lbs
As i mentioned above, boost pressure is only one part of the equation. From what ive heard (reputable tuners) the turbo on the 6.7 it starts to lose efficiency above about 36-38psi.
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