DODGE RAM FORUM - Ram Forums and Owners Club! - Dodge Truck Forum

Go Back   DODGE RAM FORUM - Ram Forums and Owners Club! - Dodge Truck Forum > Dodge Ram Forum - Help Zone - Dodge Ram Problems, Complaints, & Solutions - Maintenance & Re > 3RD Generation Dodge Ram 2002 to 2008 Dodge Ram Trucks > Powertrain > 4.7L PowerTech V8 Specific Topics


Notices


Latest Vendor News
AutoAnything
Addictive Desert Designs!
Bayou Goat Mounts

Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old 09-30-2011, 03:18 AM
silvaram05 silvaram05 is offline
Dodge Ram Forum Newcomer
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Utah
Age: 25
Posts: 5
Gender: Male
Vehicle: 2005 Dodge Ram 1500
Color: Silver
Engine: 2002-2007 287ci (4.7L) PowerTech V8 235hp 295lb/ft
Rep Power: 0
Rep:10
silvaram05 is on a distinguished road
Question Stumbling and not starting 4.7

Long story short, ive had my truck for a little over a year now and ive been fighting with it since the 3rd day ive had it. Let me start out with what i believe may have started all this. Had a spark of brilliance the first time i was giving it a bath and got the bright idea to pressure wash the motor off . Ever since then i have been having problems starting it and keeping the truck running down the road. Tach and speedometer dance a little jig aswell as an occasional 1/8th to 1/4th of a "loss" of fuel on the fuel gauge.
The only code i have ever gotten off the computer was P2047. Changed the TPS, MAP sensor and Crankshaft sensor (took it to the local dodge dealer and they could only tell me about a service notice on the crankshaft sensor so i changed it for kicks.) Erased/cleared the computer everytime and still that single code always shows up.
I really am at my wits end with this truck. Help please!
Reply With Quote
Sponsored links
  #2  
Old 09-30-2011, 04:53 AM
BigH0ss's Avatar
BigH0ss BigH0ss is offline
Dodge Ram Forum Senior Member!
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Arizona
Posts: 626
Gender: Male
Vehicle: 2013 Ram
Trim Level: Regular Cab 4x4
Color: Maximum Steel
Engine: 2009-20?? 345ci (5.7L) Hemi V8 390hp 407lb/ft
Rep Power: 3
Rep:122
BigH0ss will become famous soon enoughBigH0ss will become famous soon enough
Default

Well it's sound like you either damaged a sensor, disconnected something or u have corrosion? Check battery terminals for corrosion and grease em up for kicks. Check sensors for continuity and damage. Make sure there making a good connection too. Check your grounds. Make sure nothing came disconnected from the power washer. Ie electronics, vacuum lines etc. Good luck
__________________

Flowmaster 50 series HD muffler, Magnaflow y pipe, Resonator delete, Plasti dipped wheels, Plasti dipped RAM emblems, De-badged side emblems, Tinted windows, Receiver hitch, Shorty antenna, Mopar badge, Bed liner... That's only the beginning. Still to come, Wheels and tires, Lift and more...
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-30-2011, 07:27 AM
SuperiorStyles's Avatar
SuperiorStyles SuperiorStyles is offline
Dodge Ram Forum Senior Member!
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: 305 MIAMI AKA ZOMBIELAND
Age: 31
Posts: 356
Gender: Male
Vehicle: 2002 Dodge RAM 4.8L 290ci
Trim Level: Quad Cab SLT
Color: Black
Engine: 2002-2007 287ci (4.7L) PowerTech V8 235hp 295lb/ft
Rep Power: 0
Rep:12
SuperiorStyles is on a distinguished road
Send a message via AIM to SuperiorStyles Send a message via Yahoo to SuperiorStyles
Default

I have been working on 4.7 for about 6 years now Performance and Stock and I have come across these problems many times and people seem to over look them 80% of the time. My advice is You might wanna start looking into your Camshaft position Sensor . I have post below Everything you wanna know on how to for the CPS. Also Your 02 Sensor aka Oxygen sensor has failed or gonna fail soon that's the lost of fuel your having also.

Symptoms of Failed or going to Fail Camshaft Position Sensors :
  • Hard starting or no start
  • Rough running / misfiring
  • Loss of engine power


P2047 - Generic

Type Powertrain - Fuel and Air Metering and Auxiliary Emission Controls - ISO/SAE Controlled Description Reductant Injection Valve Circuit/Open
Location Bank 1 Unit 1

Fig. 8 CMP Location - 4.7L


The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) on this engine is bolted to the right front side of the right cylinder head.

The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) on the 4.7L V-8 engine is bolted to the right-front side of the right cylinder head.

Fig. 5 CMP And Tonewheel Operation - 4.7L


The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) sensor on the 4.7L V-8 engine contains a hall effect device called a sync signal generator that is used to generate a fuel sync signal. This sync signal generator detects notches located on a tonewheel. The tonewheel is a rotating target wheel and is located at the front of the camshaft for the right cylinder head. As the tonewheel rotates, the notches pass through the sync signal generator. The pattern of notches (viewed counter-clockwise from the front of the engine) is: 1 notch, 2 notches, 3 notches, 3 notches, 2 notches, 1 notch, 3 notches and 1 notch. The signal from the CMP sensor is used in conjunction with the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) to differentiate between fuel injection and spark events. It is also used to synchronize the fuel injectors with their respective cylinders.

When the leading edge of the tonewheel notch enters the tip of the CMP, the interruption of magnetic field causes the voltage to switch high, resulting in a sync signal of approximately 5 volts .

When the trailing edge of the tonewheel notch leaves then tip of the CMP; the change of the magnetic field causes the sync signal voltage to switch low to 0 volts .


Diagrams Camshaft Position Sensor Camshaft Position Sensor Hope this helps. Let me know how it goes.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 10-01-2011, 01:15 PM
silvaram05 silvaram05 is offline
Dodge Ram Forum Newcomer
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Utah
Age: 25
Posts: 5
Gender: Male
Vehicle: 2005 Dodge Ram 1500
Color: Silver
Engine: 2002-2007 287ci (4.7L) PowerTech V8 235hp 295lb/ft
Rep Power: 0
Rep:10
silvaram05 is on a distinguished road
Default

Installed the new CMP 15 minutes ago, had some trouble getting it started and it is still stalling some. Went for a short test drive around the block a few times, stalling 3 times. Also noticed an extra whine noise that would rise and fall with the rpms, not sure if it was always there or im just being paranoid. Each time it stalled it did restart with the turn of the key and/or popping the clutch but im seeming to have trouble at an idle. Its as if its trying to bog out and the tach is not reflecting this change in rpms. Tach and speedometer still doing a "wagging" motion on each stall. I know this doesnt seem to be narrowing anything down at all but i really cant afford to keep throwing money at it with nothing noticibly changing.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 10-01-2011, 02:30 PM
SuperiorStyles's Avatar
SuperiorStyles SuperiorStyles is offline
Dodge Ram Forum Senior Member!
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: 305 MIAMI AKA ZOMBIELAND
Age: 31
Posts: 356
Gender: Male
Vehicle: 2002 Dodge RAM 4.8L 290ci
Trim Level: Quad Cab SLT
Color: Black
Engine: 2002-2007 287ci (4.7L) PowerTech V8 235hp 295lb/ft
Rep Power: 0
Rep:12
SuperiorStyles is on a distinguished road
Send a message via AIM to SuperiorStyles Send a message via Yahoo to SuperiorStyles
Default

Test the TPS and IAC sensor for voltage your problem seems to be around you PCM and throttle body the way you making it sound like. What is you Error Code ?
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 10-02-2011, 01:06 AM
silvaram05 silvaram05 is offline
Dodge Ram Forum Newcomer
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Utah
Age: 25
Posts: 5
Gender: Male
Vehicle: 2005 Dodge Ram 1500
Color: Silver
Engine: 2002-2007 287ci (4.7L) PowerTech V8 235hp 295lb/ft
Rep Power: 0
Rep:10
silvaram05 is on a distinguished road
Default

The only code I have ever gotten is P2047, it does not will not display anything else >.< How would i go about testing the TPS and IAC sensor for voltage?

Last edited by silvaram05; 10-02-2011 at 01:10 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 10-02-2011, 07:43 AM
SuperiorStyles's Avatar
SuperiorStyles SuperiorStyles is offline
Dodge Ram Forum Senior Member!
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: 305 MIAMI AKA ZOMBIELAND
Age: 31
Posts: 356
Gender: Male
Vehicle: 2002 Dodge RAM 4.8L 290ci
Trim Level: Quad Cab SLT
Color: Black
Engine: 2002-2007 287ci (4.7L) PowerTech V8 235hp 295lb/ft
Rep Power: 0
Rep:12
SuperiorStyles is on a distinguished road
Send a message via AIM to SuperiorStyles Send a message via Yahoo to SuperiorStyles
Default

Silvaram05 Please remove a Spark Plug from 1 7 2 and 8 and tell me the color of the tip. If you see any black carbon build up or a very clean dry brand new tip and let me know so I can diagnose your fuel system. I have provided you with below how to adjust and test the TPS sensor on your throttle body. For the IAC I recommend to buy one Install it and see your result if the idle problem continues reinstall the old one and return the new one and get the money back. It's the best way to just test the IAC. You can Clean them but I Never waste time. Let me know how it goes




TPS TEST AND ADJUSTMENT:

The 3-wire Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is mounted on the throttle body and is connected to the throttle blade shaft.

The 3-wire TPS provides the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) with an input signal (voltage) that represents the throttle blade position of the throttle body The sensor is connected to the throttle blade shaft. As the position of the throttle blade changes, the output voltage of the TPS changes.

The PCM supplies approximately 5 volts to the TPS. The TPS output voltage (input signal to the PCM) represents the throttle blade position. The PCM receives an input signal voltage from the TPS. This will vary in an approximate range of from 0.26 volts at minimum throttle opening (idle), to 4.49 volts at wide open throttle. Along with inputs from other sensors, the PCM uses the TPS input to determine current engine operating conditions. In response to engine operating conditions, the PCM will adjust fuel injector pulse width and ignition timing.

The PCM needs to identify the actions and position of the throttle blade at all times. This information is needed to assist in performing the following calculations:

  • Ignition timing advance
  • Fuel injection pulse-width
  • Idle (learned value or minimum TPS)
  • Off-idle (0.06 volt)
  • Wide Open Throttle (WOT) open loop (2.608 volts above learned idle voltage)
  • Deceleration fuel lean out
  • Fuel cutoff during cranking at WOT (2.608 volts above learned idle voltage)
  • A/C WOT cutoff (certain automatic transmissions only)
Here's How :
he throttle position sensor, shift lever, and throttle valve cable are critical to proper operation of the transmission. If one or more of these are out of adjustment or if the TPS is noisy, shifting will be erratic. Before performing any adjustments, check the transmission fluid level and sniff the fluid. Do not make any adjustments until the fluid level is correct, and burned fluid has been replaced. The service manual says to adjust for 0.8-1.2V at idle. On many trucks, this voltage is too low, resulting in TCC chatter at moderate throttle loads. The TPS is not officially adjustable but the mounting holes are slotted and the body can be rotated slightly. Adjustment is relatively easy, and requires only a digital voltmeter and a few hand tools. A little adjustment goes a long way...
TPS wire color code:
  • Black = ground
  • Orange/dark blue stripe (center pin) = signal
  • Purple/white stripe = 5V power
Testing and adjusting the TPS:
1. With the key "OFF", unplug the connector from the TPS.
2. Turn the key "on" and insert DVM probes into the connector to reach the connector pins. Short pieces of wire or paper clips can be used to extend the DVM probes for reaching into the connectors.
3. Read from the purple wire to the black wire (these should be the outside pins). Power should be 5V with the key "on".
4. Turn the key "off" and plug the connector back onto the TPS
5. Insert the leads from the digital volt meter into the back of the TPS connector. The DVM negative probe goes into the back of the connector cavity with the black wire. The positive DVM probe goes into the back of the connector cavity with the orange signal wire.
NOTE: Push the probes into the rear of the connector until the probe tips reach the metal connector pins.
6. Loosen the TPS mounting screws
7. With the engine off and key on: Adjust the TPS position for 1.2 to 1.5V on the signal wire with the throttle at the idle position - more voltage makes more TC clutch pressure, too much will set a fault code. Often, adjusting for 1.4 to 1.5V at idle will cure TC clutch chatter under light load conditions. NOTE: The factory setting is 1.2V max, so proceed carefully.
8. Tighten the TPS screws, slowly open the throttle to the WOT position and then return return to idle. Watch for voltage jumps - the voltage should change smoothly from the idle value to at least 3.5V at WOT (5 volts is all you should be able to get). If the sensor voltage jumps or drops unexpectedly - replace the sensor
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 10-03-2011, 03:20 PM
silvaram05 silvaram05 is offline
Dodge Ram Forum Newcomer
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Utah
Age: 25
Posts: 5
Gender: Male
Vehicle: 2005 Dodge Ram 1500
Color: Silver
Engine: 2002-2007 287ci (4.7L) PowerTech V8 235hp 295lb/ft
Rep Power: 0
Rep:10
silvaram05 is on a distinguished road
Default

Spark plugs 1 and 2 had black stuff completely covered, 8 had some black on it but mostly clean. Couldnt get to 7 today. Also, the spark plugs were red, idk if it was paint or what but they are champion plugs, been in since ive owned the truck. Wont be able to pick up a new IAC until payday (this wed). As far as testing the TPS, i need to borrow/buy a DVM. I hope this helps you help me and i really appreciate yalls help

Last edited by silvaram05; 10-03-2011 at 03:20 PM. Reason: forgot a comma >.>
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 10-03-2011, 04:02 PM
SuperiorStyles's Avatar
SuperiorStyles SuperiorStyles is offline
Dodge Ram Forum Senior Member!
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: 305 MIAMI AKA ZOMBIELAND
Age: 31
Posts: 356
Gender: Male
Vehicle: 2002 Dodge RAM 4.8L 290ci
Trim Level: Quad Cab SLT
Color: Black
Engine: 2002-2007 287ci (4.7L) PowerTech V8 235hp 295lb/ft
Rep Power: 0
Rep:12
SuperiorStyles is on a distinguished road
Send a message via AIM to SuperiorStyles Send a message via Yahoo to SuperiorStyles
Default

Black stuff is Carbon buildup from running rich.

Red to purple deposits on one side of the core nose are an indication of a fuel additive. While many of these deposits are non-conductive and do not contribute to lack of performance, some fuel additives contain octane boosters that leave conductive deposits on the core nose. Care should be taken to select fuel additives which are compatible with ignition systems and do not contain conductive materials such as octane boosters.

Your Problem is:

Change the Spark Plugs Get AUTOLITE 5224 Plugs

Get a new EGR
The electronic EGR valve and solenoid assembly (3) is attached to the rear of the left cylinder head. An exhaust gas routing tube (1) connects the EGR valve to the intake manifold.

Exhaust gas recirculation flow is determined by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and is controlled by an electronic EGR valve assembly. For a given set of conditions, the PCM knows the ideal exhaust gas recirculation flow to optimize NOx and fuel economy as a function of the pintle position. Pintle position is obtained from the position sensor. The PCM adjusts the duty cycle of 128 Hz power supplied to the solenoid coil to obtain the correct position.

The electronic EGR valve assembly consists of a pintle, valve seat, and housing which contains and regulates exhaust gas flow. An armature, return spring, and solenoid coil provide the operating force to regulate exhaust gas flow by changing the pintle position. The solenoid coil assembly is wired in parallel with a diode that connects two internal connectors.


REMOVAL




The electronic EGR valve and solenoid assembly (4) is attached to the rear of the left cylinder head. An exhaust gas routing tube (3) connects the EGR valve to the intake manifold.


  1. Remove electrical connector (5) at top of EGR valve solenoid.
  2. Remove tube mounting bolt (1) at intake manifold.




  1. Remove two bolts (4) connecting EGR tube (1) to valve assembly.
  2. Remove gasket located between EGR tube flange and EGR valve assembly.
  3. Remove two EGR valve mounting bolts (5).
  4. Separate valve assembly (3) from engine.
  5. Remove and discard metal gasket located between cylinder head and valve assembly.
INSTALLATION





  1. Clean area at rear of left cylinder head where it joins base of EGR valve.
  2. Clean EGR tube where it joins EGR valve.
  3. Position new gasket between EGR valve and cylinder head.
  4. Position EGR valve to cylinder head. Install and tighten two bolts (5). Refer to Torque Specifications.
  5. Position new gasket between EGR tube flange and EGR valve assembly.
  6. Position EGR tube (1) to side of EGR valve and into intake manifold.




  1. Install EGR tube flange bolt (1) at intake manifold. Tighten bolt. Refer to Torque Specifications.
  2. Connect electrical connector (5) to top of EGR valve solenoid (2).



Let me know how it goes

Last edited by SuperiorStyles; 10-03-2011 at 04:13 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 09-23-2012, 02:49 AM
silvaram05 silvaram05 is offline
Dodge Ram Forum Newcomer
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Utah
Age: 25
Posts: 5
Gender: Male
Vehicle: 2005 Dodge Ram 1500
Color: Silver
Engine: 2002-2007 287ci (4.7L) PowerTech V8 235hp 295lb/ft
Rep Power: 0
Rep:10
silvaram05 is on a distinguished road
Default

Been a long time since I have posted on here but I would like to thank all of ya for the help and advice. Recently I have discovered my whole problem has been the top connector going into my computer. Haven't discovered exactly which wire(s) it could be or if its the connector itself. Finding a replacement is proving to be extremely difficult. Does anyone have any suggestions or know how I should go about this? :/
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


Advertisement






All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:46 PM.


= Copyright RamForumZ.com a Gigathreads.com Network Site =Ad Management by RedTyger
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
vB.Sponsors


=Gigathreads Network=
CLUBS MOPAR NATION DSM GPMM MAMM JAM
DIESEL Diesel Forum      
CHEVY Chevy Camaro Forum Chevy Volt Forum    
CHRYSLER Chrysler 300C Forum      
DODGE Dodge Avenger Forum Dodge Caliber Forum Dodge Challenger Forum Dodge Charger Forum
  Dodge Circuit Forum Dodge Hornet Forum Dodge Magnum Forum Dodge Nitro Forum
  Dodge Ram Forum Dodge Dakota Forum Dodge Durango Forum Dodge Dart Forum
FORD Ford Raptor Forum Ford F150 Forum Ford F100 Forum  
JEEP Jeep Forum      
PONTIAC Pontiac G8 Forum      
SRT SRT Viper Forum SRT Cuda Forum