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  #1  
Old 09-28-2012, 12:00 AM
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JohnDeerekid JohnDeerekid is offline
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Default Possible leaking rear right side wheel seal?

Hey guys/gals,

Recently I was checking my truck out and noticed gear oil around the right rear side of the axle right by the bolts that hold the drum brake backing plate. I know that those probably aren't the right terms for those parts. Any way I was wondering if any one has a DIY thread on replacing those seals, as well as how difficult they are to do?

-Mike
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  #2  
Old 09-28-2012, 10:58 PM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnDeerekid View Post
Hey guys/gals,

Recently I was checking my truck out and noticed gear oil around the right rear side of the axle right by the bolts that hold the drum brake backing plate. I know that those probably aren't the right terms for those parts. Any way I was wondering if any one has a DIY thread on replacing those seals, as well as how difficult they are to do?

-Mike
Yes sure, assuming c-clip axle. Take axle cover off, take wheels off, take brake drums or rotors off, remove lock screw from differential, remove axle shaft retaining pin, push in axle shafts, remove c-clips, pull out axle shaft or shafts. Then pull out the seal with a seal puller and install the new seal and then the same process of removal but in reverse. Put shafts in, c-clips, retainer, then the bolt but use locktite and torque to 15 ft-lbs, then replace cover gasket, install cover, tighten bolts 30 ft-lbs, fill with gear oil and enjoy.

It is a very easy thing to replace and no possible way to screw it up.
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Old 10-01-2012, 10:40 AM
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Cool thanks for the reply!!!!! By any chance do you know about a pinion seal, as I think that's seeping as well?
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Old 10-01-2012, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDeerekid View Post
Cool thanks for the reply!!!!! By any chance do you know about a pinion seal, as I think that's seeping as well?
Yea pinion seal is a different world, it is easy but not easy. See it's easy if you have the tools, balls, and a clue of what to do.

About eww 3 or 4 months ago I decided to replace my driveshaft (rusted, out of balance, and couldn't trust it) so I bought a dynotech driveshaft and sadly the companies couldn't get tube yokes that are 4" for .083" tubing that fit the 7960 u-joints so I said just go with the 1350's so that's what they did and I agreed on but the chrysler 9.25 axle doesn't come with a pinion yoke for the 1350 series u-joints and well I have to hunt down a yoke for the chrysler 9.25 axle 29 spline that would accept 1350's I found one, forged yoke and well I was nervous about replacing it because you have to make sure you don't loose or have TOO MUCH PINION BEARING PRELOAD! Well...

The correct way to replace a yoke or a seal is to measure the initial pre-load with the wheels and rotors or drums removed with inch-lb torque wrench, then remove the yoke then do what you need to do either replace the seal or everything in my case the seal and the yoke. Then put the yoke on and tighten down the yoke with a NEW washer and NEW nut, then once you hand tighten it you want to measure the pre-load of the pinion with the wheels and drums/rotors removed. You want to keep tightening the nut and checking the pre-load until you have like an extra 5 inch-lbs of pre-load over the initial preload.

What many people do and I did it too and sure enough about 4000 miles down the road I have noise coming from my rear axle and noise coming from my front axles after I replaced bearings which front axles also have a pre-load that need to be set which I set properly, in my case with the front axle, the bearings were cheap so they make noise. But what I did to the rear is I made a mark in the pinion and make a mark in the nut and made a corresponding mark to the new nut and did what i did and put the new nut on and tightened it adding an extra 1/8th of a turn and well with an axle that has over 120K miles on it you cannot do that and expect perfection. But I did what I did, learned that is not what you should do though others do it and well not it's a ticking time bomb.

So my recommendation to you is you bring that truck to someone who SPECIALIZES in axles! And you make sure they measure the pre load and not use the marking method like I and other souls have, it doesn't have results that will keep that trucking going far.

But axle bearings did that and it's slice of cake, the pinion was a slice of cake too but the results I am not happy with but again I didn't have much time or the correct tools for the job but it got done and well still works, I may have to replace the pinion and ring gear but I would end up doing it anyways matter fact I may end up just replacing the axle with a dana 60 instead because it's a better axle.

But if you have any more questions or anything just feel free to message me or post em up here.
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:15 PM
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Thank you for your reply ramvan2500. I will re-consider the pinion seal job.

-Mike
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  #6  
Old 10-05-2012, 04:29 PM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Originally Posted by JohnDeerekid View Post
Thank you for your reply ramvan2500. I will re-consider the pinion seal job.

-Mike
You're welcome, the only fear when doing that pinion seal is you will mess up the pre-load like I did and kill the bearings but luckily for me my axle has around 140K miles and it's a open diff so you can guess I'm going to be doing a rebuild sooner or later, I been trying to decide if I want to just go to the junkyard and pull out a dana 60 full floater with disc brakes and rebuild that dana and put it on my truck, having that extra axle capacity and disc brakes would be nice for me when I tow.
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