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  #1  
Old 08-15-2012, 11:18 AM
mrau92me mrau92me is offline
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Default Oil pump repaired, now about the transmission...

My automatic transmission will slip only while the engine is warming up and with the gear selector on D. From a dead stop it takes off fine, but it slips out of gear when going into 2nd and it'll finally work its way into gear. I'm pretty sure it does it when going into 3rd too.

If I shift the transmission manually before the engine temp reaches 200 (normal op temp), it shifts fine. So, that's what I've been doing until the temp hits 200. From that point on, I can leave the gear selector on D and the tranny shifts like it's supposed to.
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:06 AM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Originally Posted by mrau92me View Post
My automatic transmission will slip only while the engine is warming up and with the gear selector on D. From a dead stop it takes off fine, but it slips out of gear when going into 2nd and it'll finally work its way into gear. I'm pretty sure it does it when going into 3rd too.

If I shift the transmission manually before the engine temp reaches 200 (normal op temp), it shifts fine. So, that's what I've been doing until the temp hits 200. From that point on, I can leave the gear selector on D and the tranny shifts like it's supposed to.
Have you had the front band adjusted recently? If not it's possible it's causing the slipping.
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Old 08-16-2012, 05:52 PM
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JeffreyCH JeffreyCH is offline
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My buddy's 99 does that with reverse, kind of slips till it's warmed up. We were thinking the trans pump might be getting weak. Dodges do have a trans hydraulic pump right? (I know GM 's much better then Mopar but have become a convert lol) Also, when was the last time you had the trans fluid/filter changed? (not just a fluid drain, but a full flush of the torque converter) Could just be gummed up and not working proper until it gets warm enough to loosen the gunk up.

ramvan, what is this band adjustment you are talking about? Is this something that needs to be done as part of routine maint? Can the average guy do that with common hand tools or are special tools, gauges or whatever needed?
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Old 08-16-2012, 06:26 PM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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My buddy's 99 does that with reverse, kind of slips till it's warmed up. We were thinking the trans pump might be getting weak. Dodges do have a trans hydraulic pump right? (I know GM 's much better then Mopar but have become a convert lol) Also, when was the last time you had the trans fluid/filter changed? (not just a fluid drain, but a full flush of the torque converter) Could just be gummed up and not working proper until it gets warm enough to loosen the gunk up.

ramvan, what is this band adjustment you are talking about? Is this something that needs to be done as part of routine maint? Can the average guy do that with common hand tools or are special tools, gauges or whatever needed?

Actually the GM pump and Mopar pump are the same type it is a gyro rotor pump, it's an amazing design. The pump can literally supply a pressure over 10,000 PSI easy but that's what pressure relief is for. Anyways, the pumps generally last a lifetime you have to remember it is for the most part always in contact with transmission fluid which serves as a hydraulic fluid and coolant to the transmission. Anyways to test the pump you can just pop off the return line from the transmission and with a clean clear plastic bottle that is 1 quart or larger just snake the line into the bottle, then have a helper turn the truck on and shift it into neutral and count, the pump should be able to supply 1 quart in 20 seconds or less. The time will vary on what kind of cooling setup you have, I have a external cooler that required the fluid to travel against gravity so I can slow it down to cool it better and to keep pressure high and air out, then it goes into the stock cooler which is built into the radiator, from this my trans pump is supplying 1 quart in about 10 seconds at idle. But the industry standard for these transmissions is 1 quart within 20 seconds.

As far as the band adjustment, only tool you need is a inch lbs torque wrench which you can get at any autopart store, or harbor freight they have them on sale I think for 12.99 or something like that.

The band adjustment frequency depends on how you use the truck, if you TOW often and spend much time in 2nd gear then adjust the front band every 12,000 miles at the rear band every 24,000-48,000 miles.

If you are just regular old run of mill driver then you can get away with front band adjustment every 36,000-50,000 miles. The rear band you don't have to adjust often because it's only applied in reverse and manual 1st and even in manual 1st you still have an overrunning clutch to hold the rear drum so the band won't see a whole lot of wear. But the rear band should be adjusted probably every 50,000 miles. It just depends on driving habits and crap like that.

The rear band adjustment is done internally so you need to remove the fluid pan, the front band adjustment is done externally. The front band adjuster is located behind the shift linkage that would be on the driver side of the vehicle.


To do a band adjustment for the front, just loosen the locknut then tighten the band adjuster with the torque wrench until you hit 72 inchs lbs, then turn the adjuster counter clockwise 3 turns and then tighten the locknut, you should torque the locknut to 25-30 ft-lbs.

The rear band is the same procedure except you want to backoff the adjuster only 2 turns.
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Old 08-17-2012, 01:15 PM
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Thanks ramvan, great info
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Old 08-19-2012, 04:02 PM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Thanks ramvan, great info
Not a problem, I am soon going to be getting into the manual transmissions.
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:45 PM
mrau92me mrau92me is offline
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Originally Posted by ramvan2500 View Post
The rear band adjustment is done internally so you need to remove the fluid pan, the front band adjustment is done externally. The front band adjuster is located behind the shift linkage that would be on the driver side of the vehicle.

To do a band adjustment for the front, just loosen the locknut then tighten the band adjuster with the torque wrench until you hit 72 inchs lbs, then turn the adjuster counter clockwise 3 turns and then tighten the locknut, you should torque the locknut to 25-30 ft-lbs.

The rear band is the same procedure except you want to backoff the adjuster only 2 turns.
Thanks for the info, ramvan. I'll try adjusting the front band first. Note: I had the transmission fluid changed by a shop but it didn't help.
My apology to everyone for posting and then disappearing, but I thought I subscribed to this thread, in addition to my other vehicles developing more-urgent issues (daughter's Passat water pump went belly up).

I'll also add that the previous owners (friends of mine) had the transmission rebuilt in '07 at 105k miles and really only drove it after that point to occasionally tow their ski boat a few miles during the summers. I bought it cheap coupla months ago with 117k on the clock after their crazy dog chewed up the transmission wire harness trying to get a cat (I don't think the dog could have done any damage to cause the slipping). $20 and some soldering later, I fired it up. They said there were no issues prior to that, other than the fuel gauge . My theory is that they didn't know it was slipping after they got it rebuilt because they were moving it just a few feet and letting it idle (warming it up) as they hooked their boat up.
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:48 PM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Originally Posted by mrau92me View Post
Thanks for the info, ramvan. I'll try adjusting the front band first. Note: I had the transmission fluid changed by a shop but it didn't help.
My apology to everyone for posting and then disappearing, but I thought I subscribed to this thread, in addition to my other vehicles developing more-urgent issues (daughter's Passat water pump went belly up).

I'll also add that the previous owners (friends of mine) had the transmission rebuilt in '07 at 105k miles and really only drove it after that point to occasionally tow their ski boat a few miles during the summers. I bought it cheap coupla months ago with 117k on the clock after their crazy dog chewed up the transmission wire harness trying to get a cat (I don't think the dog could have done any damage to cause the slipping). $20 and some soldering later, I fired it up. They said there were no issues prior to that, other than the fuel gauge . My theory is that they didn't know it was slipping after they got it rebuilt because they were moving it just a few feet and letting it idle (warming it up) as they hooked their boat up.
Well if you get stuck, have questions. Just ask. Happy to help
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Old 10-22-2012, 06:27 PM
mrau92me mrau92me is offline
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Originally Posted by ramvan2500 View Post
Well if you get stuck, have questions. Just ask. Happy to help
Glad you asked cuz I got my Haynes manual out yesterday to help me locate the front band adjustment bolt, and I'm quite certain I found it.

I had my torque wrench ready, but it appears that the front band adjustment bolt is a stud with an 8-mm square end on it. So, before I loosened the jam nut, without any luck, I tried to fit a few hex sockets onto the square stud end to see if they'd bite enough so I'd be able to use my torque wrench to torque it to 72 in-lb (like you said). I don't think they make 8 pt sockets any more, so what kind of socket am I supposed to use with my torque wrench to achieve torque before turning it back 3X (btw-Haynes says 2-7/8 turns but probly doesn't matter much). Is there something I'm not seeing here, such as a nut underneath the jam/lock nut? Thanks

Last edited by mrau92me; 10-22-2012 at 06:30 PM. Reason: Added some clarifying details
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  #10  
Old 10-22-2012, 09:40 PM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Originally Posted by mrau92me View Post
Glad you asked cuz I got my Haynes manual out yesterday to help me locate the front band adjustment bolt, and I'm quite certain I found it.

I had my torque wrench ready, but it appears that the front band adjustment bolt is a stud with an 8-mm square end on it. So, before I loosened the jam nut, without any luck, I tried to fit a few hex sockets onto the square stud end to see if they'd bite enough so I'd be able to use my torque wrench to torque it to 72 in-lb (like you said). I don't think they make 8 pt sockets any more, so what kind of socket am I supposed to use with my torque wrench to achieve torque before turning it back 3X (btw-Haynes says 2-7/8 turns but probly doesn't matter much). Is there something I'm not seeing here, such as a nut underneath the jam/lock nut? Thanks
You need to use a 5/16", 8 or 12 point socket. I personally will be changing out my adjuster to the latest one which is a allen type socket.

To do the adjustment you have to loosen that 3/4" nut that is threaded onto the adjuster. You loosen that and then you can use that 5/16" socket and do the adjustment (tighten 72 in-lbs) then, 2-7/8 turns back or 3 is fine, I always do 3 because when I go to tighten the lock nut the adjuster moves with the nut so it ends up being 2-7/8 at the end. Then tighten the adjuster lock nut. The adjuster locking nut should be torqued to 25 ft-lbs.

I think it was stupid to make a square end adjuster but, Chrysler...

If you have a hard time finding the 8 or 12 point socket, the Autozone should have one if not autozone try Ace and lastly Sears.
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