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  #1  
Old 11-05-2012, 11:06 AM
swerv swerv is offline
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Default 95 ram 5.2 missing but no check engine light

hi everyone this is my first post. i dont know if im posting in the rite section or not lol but here goes. i have a 1995 ram 1500 2 wheel drive. first ram ive ever owned and i love it. had a couple small isues with tps codes and o2 sensors codes i changed the o2 sensor and cleaned out the iac valve. the codes that i gave the auto parts store said the code was tps related could be anything on throttle body tho. after that i ran codes again and its holding the 37 but light hasnt came back on yet. now this can mean different things from the same year i was told. like if its got a tow package and trans temp sensor could throw that code but thats only on 3/4 and 1 ton trucks i think and mines a 1/2 ton so im confused. the truck every once in a while will start spitting sputtering maybe a little back firing loss of power. so i pull over and after a minute or two it clears up. doesnt matter if its hot or cold or im driving 25 or 65 its just so random. so if anyone can shed some light on the sputtering thing or the 37 code what it actually means i would greatly apreciate it thanks.

Last edited by swerv; 11-05-2012 at 05:25 PM.
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  #2  
Old 11-05-2012, 10:03 PM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swerv View Post
hi everyone this is my first post. i dont know if im posting in the rite section or not lol but here goes. i have a 1995 ram 1500 2 wheel drive. first ram ive ever owned and i love it. had a couple small isues with tps codes and o2 sensors codes i changed the o2 sensor and cleaned out the iac valve. the codes that i gave the auto parts store said the code was tps related could be anything on throttle body tho. after that i ran codes again and its holding the 37 but light hasnt came back on yet. now this can mean different things from the same year i was told. like if its got a tow package and trans temp sensor could throw that code but thats only on 3/4 and 1 ton trucks i think and mines a 1/2 ton so im confused. the truck every once in a while will start spitting sputtering maybe a little back firing loss of power. so i pull over and after a minute or two it clears up. doesnt matter if its hot or cold or im driving 25 or 65 its just so random. so if anyone can shed some light on the sputtering thing or the 37 code what it actually means i would greatly apreciate it thanks.
Don't worry about the code for the temp sensor thing, it's a useless code. I get it too and it doesn't matter for our 1995 ECM's. I have a 2500 series chassis, the ECM in the van is the same as the pickup just so you know. Everything in the van is the same as the pickup except the body.

Anyways, the sputtering can be a result of a bad fuel pump so check that, should read above 40 PSI at the fuel rail for proper operation. Should be very close to 43 PSI. Gauge pressure of course. Next thing it could be a faulty EGR that is sticking. Could be many things but these are a couple things I would check with first. Especially with the sputtering, sounds fuel related.
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:59 PM
Gen1dak Gen1dak is offline
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If your model truck has a trailer towing package, it has a transmission temperature sensor. Since you probably do not have that package, you could be getting a low voltage signal since there's no sensor. The MIL light doesn't always illuminate when dealing with the code 37....go figure. The sputtering sounds like you have a failing intake plenum gasket.
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Gen1dak View Post
If your model truck has a trailer towing package, it has a transmission temperature sensor. Since you probably do not have that package, you could be getting a low voltage signal since there's no sensor. The MIL light doesn't always illuminate when dealing with the code 37....go figure. The sputtering sounds like you have a failing intake plenum gasket.
I could of sworn I covered the trans temp sensor, which they didn't have on the 1995 model year anyways. It wasn't until 1996 did they begin to put the sensor in.

But anyways the sputtering sounds more like a fuel problem than intake, I think we should recommend he connect a fuel pressure gauge and vacuum gauge this ways we can rule out both.
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Old 11-06-2012, 11:34 PM
Gen1dak Gen1dak is offline
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And you once swore a 5.9 was a Big Block.
http://www.allpar.com/model/ram/dodg...smissions.html
Click the link for the whole write-up, or read here for the main point of the article on Dodge Ram 1994-2001:
"A transmission temperature control system was standard on Ram pickup with the 47RH transmission and optional with the 46RH. The electronic transmission control unit could shift to third gear and engage the converter clutch if transmission oil temperature reached its upper limit. A temperature sensor in the cooler line to the radiator provided the signal; it also controlled a warning lamp on the instrument panel which would light if the downshift didn’t lower transmission fluid temperatures."
The option was whether it had a towing package, which was usually part of the 2500 and 3500 package, possibly a special order option on the 1500.

As for what "we" should recommend, I will make my own recommendations.
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  #6  
Old 11-07-2012, 04:23 PM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen1dak View Post
And you once swore a 5.9 was a Big Block.
http://www.allpar.com/model/ram/dodg...smissions.html
Click the link for the whole write-up, or read here for the main point of the article on Dodge Ram 1994-2001:
"A transmission temperature control system was standard on Ram pickup with the 47RH transmission and optional with the 46RH. The electronic transmission control unit could shift to third gear and engage the converter clutch if transmission oil temperature reached its upper limit. A temperature sensor in the cooler line to the radiator provided the signal; it also controlled a warning lamp on the instrument panel which would light if the downshift didn’t lower transmission fluid temperatures."
The option was whether it had a towing package, which was usually part of the 2500 and 3500 package, possibly a special order option on the 1500.

As for what "we" should recommend, I will make my own recommendations.
Well you don't have to be rude, we can work together you know. But yes I am the person who said a 5.9L is a big block, but what exactly defines a big block from a small block? Do you even know of how many different types of piston engine designs there are? But if you look at big block small block in terms of physical size a 5.9L Magnum block compared to the block in a honda civic, then it's a big block! Now compare the 5.9L magnum block to say 454 Chevy than it's a small block. What does block size matter anyways? You are one of those old timer "there is no replacement for displacement people" except for forced induction. Well hate to say it but there is a replacement for displacement, you can make a very small powerful engine, look at F1, now I understand those engines are operating at 16,000RPM however it's still around 2L and 800HP. Ok if you want to talk torque yea 357 ft-lbs but still a small displacement with some serious power.

But I don't want to argue or talk about engines much. I just want to help this guy, he has a 1995 I have a 1995, he has a 2500 I have a 2500, he has a 46RH, I have a 46RH. The ECMs are the same! The engines are the same! The transmissions are the same! The axles are probably the same! But in stock form, my van isn't stock form anymore. But all I am trying to tell this guy is not to worry about that one error code as it's a pretty useless code. Trailer tow option or not.
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Old 11-07-2012, 05:34 PM
swerv swerv is offline
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Lol ok I did a little more research to and yeah that code is useless I see. Well yesterday was driving to work and it started the same thing again, I pulled over it started to clear up then boom! Check engine light came on and spat the 27 code at me which is the injector not getting info from injector controller. Turned out it was one wire on the #1 injector was a tad loose. I pushed it in and it sounded like new lol now I hope that this was causing the problem the whole time but not sure cause it acted totally different then my original problem. But I don't know if it could have just had so little connection that it was making it chug a sputter and backfire a little bit. It only backfired tho when I pushed on pedal more. I thought about the fuel pressure thing to but I didn't have a pressure gauge. Well thanks for the help. I didn't get a chance to post my new problem yesterday lol but hopefully it w
Just that one wire all along but my luck prolly not lol thanks again guys
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Old 11-07-2012, 05:57 PM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Originally Posted by swerv View Post
Lol ok I did a little more research to and yeah that code is useless I see. Well yesterday was driving to work and it started the same thing again, I pulled over it started to clear up then boom! Check engine light came on and spat the 27 code at me which is the injector not getting info from injector controller. Turned out it was one wire on the #1 injector was a tad loose. I pushed it in and it sounded like new lol now I hope that this was causing the problem the whole time but not sure cause it acted totally different then my original problem. But I don't know if it could have just had so little connection that it was making it chug a sputter and backfire a little bit. It only backfired tho when I pushed on pedal more. I thought about the fuel pressure thing to but I didn't have a pressure gauge. Well thanks for the help. I didn't get a chance to post my new problem yesterday lol but hopefully it w
Just that one wire all along but my luck prolly not lol thanks again guys
Good, I would still check the fuel pressure. Especially since the truck is relatively old. Trust me, I was driving from SC to Fl and my fuel pump which was running at 35 PSI wouldn't supply enough fuel to keep the engine going and well it died some 100+ miles from home, Now I was lucky because it provided just enough fuel to keep the vehicle going 40 MPH, but at one point the thing didn't even have enough fuel to move the vehicle, the engine would still idle but that's it. Well long story short, It completely died 18 miles from home and the tow with discount cost around 130 bucks, new fuel pump cost 125 bucks. And well the next day I put the key in the ignition the engine started I drove it but once I hit 80 it would die, fuel pressure was at 35 PSI, these systems are picky and they want there 40-43 PSI at the rail. So just be safe go to a little autozone and they can connect there fuel pressure gauge. Better than getting stranded somewhere, that was the worst night of my life. Cost so much money, took so much time. My god!
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Old 11-07-2012, 07:30 PM
swerv swerv is offline
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Damn that sucks. I will have the fuel pressure checked tho just to be sure the pump is only a few years old and was installed by the dealer. I don't know what brand but I've heard there bad for burning up pumps and acting crazy if its not rite at the specs u provided. And I just drove it for about 45 minutes and it did the same thing as my original problem lol the missing seams to be a little worse now tho. I also checked all the plugs and they all looked pretty good except for that number one cylinder so the problem was there long before I got the truck. But surely someone didn't drive it long enough like that to get the plug white and corroded ? It ran like straight Shyte. Can a clogged fuel filter cause intermittent missing like that? I've never had one go out or get clogged so idk
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:04 PM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Originally Posted by swerv View Post
Damn that sucks. I will have the fuel pressure checked tho just to be sure the pump is only a few years old and was installed by the dealer. I don't know what brand but I've heard there bad for burning up pumps and acting crazy if its not rite at the specs u provided. And I just drove it for about 45 minutes and it did the same thing as my original problem lol the missing seams to be a little worse now tho. I also checked all the plugs and they all looked pretty good except for that number one cylinder so the problem was there long before I got the truck. But surely someone didn't drive it long enough like that to get the plug white and corroded ? It ran like straight Shyte. Can a clogged fuel filter cause intermittent missing like that? I've never had one go out or get clogged so idk
A sticking injector could cause running problems like that, a clogged fuel filter will most likely cause random miss fires across all cylinders but generally the ones closest to the fuel supply line. The filters on these pumps are built onto the fuel pump which is submerged in the tank so replacing it isn't really an option. But it took 17 years for my pump to completely give out, but when the pump was running 35 PSI I was getting 4 more MPG over stock! Just the thing finally couldn't keep up and left me stranded. So make sure it's 40-43.5 PSI. They are very tempermental about fuel pressure. And ah, dealer installed, that explains it all :P
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