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  #1  
Old 11-05-2012, 11:20 PM
EPRAM EPRAM is offline
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Default Help: 2012 CC Alpine upgrade gone bad

I hope someone can help me here. I have been through all the previous posts on upgrading the Alpine system, but now I am even more confused.
I just dropped $1200 at a local installer, and I am very disappointed.

Here is the story:
I had this set up in my previous truck:
JL 6.5" componenet speakers -front doors
JL 4 channel amp 4x75 (2 channels front, 2 channels bridged for sub)
JL 10" sub
(great highs, decent mid, decent bass)

I removed these and had them installed in my 2012 1500 CC Laramie Alpine system - with some changes:

The JL 6.5" components are in front doors
JL 10" sub passenger side replaced factory sub
Bought new Kenwood 6x9 Excelon for rear doors
Bought new Kenwood amp for sub:60x2 / 150x1
JL amp powering all 4 door speakers
Cache 6 channel converter

Results: The rear speakers - great
The sub - OK, but not as good as previous truck
The front speakers - Lame sound . I knew from reading here, the front doors were not getting the full signal spectrum as recieved from the amp.
I thought they were going to find a full range signal or use the high frequency dash signals and run wires to the door tweeters or something.

According to the installer, there is no full range front signal to be had to input to the amp then the front component speakers. I think they are getting signal from the amp output.?
Is this true?
I assumed the factory head unit output would have full range outputs for all front and rear channels, and the filter/crossover took place in the amp itself.
They claim the outputs of the head unit are already filtered/crossover?

What is the real story?
What suggestions can you guys give me?

My initial consideration, is to swap the front and rear channels, and let the (full?) range rear channel drive the front speakers, and let the front channel drive the rear speakers. Not ideal, but at least the front components would come back to life..????

Help,.. I need to give these guys some direction if there is a solution to my issue.

Many thanks in advance!
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  #2  
Old 11-06-2012, 12:31 AM
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They should have wired the front door tweets from the dash speaker signal to get the high range. Others have done it on the forum.

I can't believe the outputs are filtered at the head unit. I could be wrong.

An easy and cheap fix would be to replace the dash speakers with a nice set. I replaced mine with a set of Infinity Reference 3032cf and it made a world of difference. They were factory refurbs from Harmon on eBay for $20 and they are awesome and carry full factory warranty. Plug and play, you can do it yourself. I also disconnected the centre speaker to get more separation of the channels up front and I am very pleased with the results.

Also, depending on which JL 10" sub you have, 150Wx1 (I'm assuming RMS) may not be enough. I am running about 150W RMS into each voice coil of the factory 8" sub and it sounds half decent IMHO.
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Old 11-07-2012, 10:21 AM
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Easy fix...get rid of that crappy factory head unit and buy an aftermarket unit that can be ran ACTIVE. You have all the equipment, but ZERO control over said equipment.
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Old 11-07-2012, 12:20 PM
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Thanks, but now I am limited on coin,.. so factory head unit has to stay.
As for using the dash tweeter signal to the new door speakers: it would not be powered from my new amp, so it would not be equal power. Nor wold new dash speakers....

Uggg,... I need help
Someone must know if the head unit output for the front channel is full frequency ???
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Old 11-07-2012, 04:22 PM
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You should either swap out the factory head unit or purchase a digital sound processor that will sum the signals sent from a factory deck and allow them to be properly sent to amplifiers. Line converters worked fine when cars had stock radio systems that were more basic. Nowadays the factory stereos come pre-tuned to sound "better" and the downside is that it can make implementing aftermarket gear more difficult and expensive.

If you are not familiar with them, processors, sometimes called summing units, will take all of the audio signals that are sent from a stock radio. Then using those signals, they will create a clean, equalized and low-level signal than can be sent to your amps via RCAs. Check out units like JBL's MS8 and JL's CleanSweep, though there are a few others, these are popular choices.
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Old 11-07-2012, 05:02 PM
autokraftgt autokraftgt is offline
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Somethin tells me he won't want to shell out the money needed for an MS8
But he can get into a head unit with ACTIVE capabilities for a little over 200 bucks!
You can find a Pioneer DEH-80PRS for $230.00 on Amazon. Then you"ll have the ability to run Active, and you'll have time alignment, auto EQ, crossovers, CD, MP3, Pandora, Blue Tooth...all the good stuff. Running active would blow his mind
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Old 11-07-2012, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by autokraftgt View Post
Somethin tells me he won't want to shell out the money needed for an MS8
But he can get into a head unit with ACTIVE capabilities for a little over 200 bucks!
You can find a Pioneer DEH-80PRS for $230.00 on Amazon. Then you"ll have the ability to run Active, and you'll have time alignment, auto EQ, crossovers, CD, MP3, Pandora, Blue Tooth...all the good stuff. Running active would blow his mind
True, but he won't be able to run an active front stage w/ a sub and send full range signals to his rear speakers using the 80PRS either. Passive fronts and rears would work but I don't know how the T/A works when running a rear stage. On my 880PRS in my last truck it didn't auto-tune well when I was running rears.
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Old 11-08-2012, 09:34 AM
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Thanks for the advice guys.
I have spent hours looking over the wiring and connector pin documents people have provided here. Now tell me if I am on the wrong path:

It appears from the Chrysler wiring diagrams site and the simple chart Premium Alpine pin out attached:

- The head unit has Front and Rear outputs (only) to the amp.
- The amp has outputs to front doors, dash tweeter, rear doors, headliner tweeter, center channel, and sub.
- From this, I conclude the output of the head unit for front and rear signal is full frequency, and the amp itself is tuned / split / crossover to provide the appropriate powered output to the specific speakers in the vehicle.
This makes sense from the fact Chrysler could use this same head unit in any vehicle, but the unique power - speaker - tuning is provided by a specific vehicle line amp.

So, if my therory is true, why not tap into the front and rear signal output of the head unit and port to my amps?
- realize I loose dash and headliner speakers,.. but that is OK

But, people are using and suggesting the sound processors, taking signals out of the amp and combining them?
Why?

Am I right??
Thanks




https://techauthorityonlinedemo.extr...ew/classic.htm
Attached Files
File Type: txt Premium Alpine.txt (1.6 KB, 50 views)

Last edited by EPRAM; 11-08-2012 at 09:37 AM.
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Old 11-18-2012, 10:08 AM
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Thanks for the advice on the summing units. I have researched them, and the most affordable and available ones are from Audiocontrol.
Summing the front tweeter and mid door chanels should solve my problem.
Now I have to choose which Audiocontrol to use:
Options are: (see link on bottom of page)

LC7i with 6 channels in & accubass
LC8i with 8 channels in -but no accubass
LCQ1 with 6 channels in and has eq controls

That leaves the delima of decision:
- 8 ch would allow 2 frt door, 2 frt tweeter, 2 RR door, 2 sub
= this option sound like the obvious choice

BUT:

Would the use of the EQ on the 6 channel be worth the consideration?
- and leave one channel not run through the unit? Rear or Sub?

Your experience is greatly appreciated

http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/1761...tegration.html
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