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  #1  
Old 11-30-2012, 03:50 PM
vaichus vaichus is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: CT
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Vehicle: 1995 dodge ram 1500 5.9l 4x4
Trim Level: SLT
Color: SILVER
Engine: 1994-1997 360ci (5.9L) Magnum V8 230hp
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Default Shake, rattle (& roll...for a short distance)


1995 5.9L 156k Got stuck 4x consecutively a few miles from my home each time. Starts fine but after 3-4 miles it shakes,rattles & rolls 2 a stop. Its almost a shudder or a heavy congestion. No particular speed; no smell of gas. Once it starts to hesitate/shudder the engine shuts down & I have to pull off the road. It restarts but only "shutters" & it shuts down again. It refuses to run until it cools down & I turn the ignition 3x on/off 2let computer reset (flash the codes via the "engine light") Codes are 12,32,55. Crank sensor? Fuel pump? Temp sensor? June tune-up (cap,rotor,plugs, wires, thermostat). Recently towed a trailer 10-15x & the eng wld get hot, even leak out some coolant when I stopped (if i did not let the truck sit& idle to let it cool down). Chgd O2 sensor, added dry gas. Idled for 2 hrs then took it for 2mi ride, gunning the accelerator & it ran fine. thx
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Old 12-01-2012, 10:56 PM
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major324 major324 is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: San Diego California
Age: 43
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Vehicle: 1997 dodge Ram 1500 2WD 5.9
Trim Level: sport
Color: White
Engine: 1994-1997 360ci (5.9L) Magnum V8 230hp
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I hear this so muchon here and did everthing everyone mentioned ie full tune up , new gas and even pulled hypertech tune to stock after a lot of money and time it was my fuel pump putting out low pressure. Your probably saying "not mine" as i did but afyer i changed my fuel pump wow huge change i only could do this after i put an air/fuel ratio gage on truck and it read lean constantly and then went from there.
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Old 12-02-2012, 01:36 AM
Screamintrashcan Screamintrashcan is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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Vehicle: 95 & 98 1500 Ram 4x4s
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Engine: 1994-2001 318ci (5.2L) Magnum V8 220hp
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Definately a fuel pump, but if you have doubt, seek a fuel pressure gauge and stick it under a wiper and drive around til it becomes a bad actor. Theres a connect point on your drivers side fuel rail, 35-40 psi and rock solid under all driving conditions. (and no, there is no fuel filter, unless someone installed one inline later) Mine would drop out and leave me feebly trying to keep it running in neutral, on 1 or 2 cylinders, with an occasional backfire out of each end, because the ECU (I believe)was truing to compensate for lean conditions (low pressure). Take a shovel with you on your drive, and when it acts up, thump the bottom of the tank a couple of times, and you'll probably get your pump back, albeit temporarily. When it would start back up normally, after about 30 minutes, it acted like it was loaded up, because the sensors were telling the ECU it had good fuel pressure again, so it took a moment or 2 to readjust to the normal fuel pressure. It loved to die after going downhill,and applying the accelerator again, or 100' or so from a stop sign or light. I hated that , how embarassing! PS it's generally speaking, easier to get some help and slide the box back, rather than screw with lowering the tank, especially if you haven't got a body lift. $220 for a pump, up here in my neck of the woods, double if you farm out the change.
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