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Custom Dodge Ram Interior Modifications - Custom Audio / Video All custom mods on the interior of your Dodge Ram. Dodge Ram stereo mods, alarms, electronics, shift knobs, upholstery, etc.


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  #11  
Old 03-04-2012, 07:27 PM
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Any bolt will work. as long as its to a metal thing (duh!) lol


It is better to ground things at the battery, but the battery grounds itself to the fender just behind the battery. (look at my pictures)



I cant stress this enough when people are doing these mods. YOU ARE NOT REPLACING WIRE YOU ARE ADDING ADDITIONAL ELECTRICAL PATHS.

I just think its important everyone knows that haha
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  #12  
Old 03-04-2012, 11:11 PM
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Lol. I really need to do mine. The PDX is causing my evic to dim pretty bad.
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  #13  
Old 12-19-2012, 03:17 PM
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any more or different input for a 2nd gen 2001 ram sport? I have subs that make my headlights dim already. And im getting LEDs and projector headlights, so i think the big three might be a great idea. haha thanks.
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  #14  
Old 12-19-2012, 09:36 PM
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Nope same wires to same locations.
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  #15  
Old 12-19-2012, 09:49 PM
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You guys aren't removing the fusible link between the alternator and the PDC...are you?

'cause, that's bad, mmkay?
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  #16  
Old 06-15-2014, 10:31 PM
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When doing this do we need to run a power wire to the fuse block?



Sorry to bring up old thread, but good information?
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  #17  
Old 06-16-2014, 09:47 AM
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No, your factory wiring is sufficient to supply the power to the fuse block and any accessories attached to it. Any major draw accessories should be connected with relays, separate circuits, or an auxiliary fuse block.
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  #18  
Old 06-18-2014, 04:13 PM
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Thanks! Waiting on some heat shrink from parts express then i can start the big 3 upgrade. And the better solder, I am having no luck with 'electric solder' from home depot. Not melting what so ever unless i put it right on the soldering iron.
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  #19  
Old 06-18-2014, 07:04 PM
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If you're going to solder, then I'd pick up solder slugs from somewhere like Acklands. Depending on the cable gauge you're using you'll actually need to put the connector into a vice and heat the connector with a pencil torch to get it hot enough to melt the solder then insert the cable into it and then it'll wick into the cable. I personally just ordered a 10ton hydraulic crimper off Amazon and it worked like a charm, and a crimped connection is a better mechanical connection compared to a solder connection which is better for high vibration areas, like a vehicle.

Are you using a soldering iron or a soldering gun? An iron will rarely make enough heat with a larger gauge cable to get the solder to wick into the parts and you'll only have a cold solder joint which is weak, brittle, and poorly conducts electricity.
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  #20  
Old 06-18-2014, 07:42 PM
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I did buy a torch but i did crimp one connection and put solder on the top side to try and have 'best of both worlds' but not sure how effective it is. The solder i have i am not a fan of and waiting from some of the Cardas Quad-Eutectic solder i bought to get here.
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