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Electrical 2nd Gen Dodge Ram Electrical Problems and Questions.


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  #21  
Old 05-09-2011, 11:05 PM
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brad12kx brad12kx is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikedirtbike View Post
I'm having the same problem. When i unhook the pos side of battery and put my multi meter in series i get a reading of 13.03 volts..
.

The reading is expected...and good. However, it's the wrong test.
To test for IOD, you need to measure 'amp'....or in this case, milliamps. (thousandths of an amp).
WARNING - This test can cause serious and irreparable damage to your meter if performed wrong!
Perform the following test at your own risk!

Because we are testing for a possible over-current condition, we need to test in the 'amps' range first.
To test the IOD current draw -
1) Disconnect the underhood light if applicable.
2) Ensure all lights are off, doors are closed, keys are NOT in the ignition, and no-one is around to accidentally open a door during the test.
3) Disconnect the negative battery cable. (Although the test can be done on the positive side, it is recommended to do so on the negative side.)
4) Select the DC 'Amps' range on the meter. (Usually shows the letter 'A' with both a solid and dashed straight line under the 'A')
5) Move the positive lead of the meter to the jack marked with the same symbol (A with underline).
6) Connect the Red meter lead to the negative battery cable.
7) Connect the Black meter lead to the negative battery terminal.
Never, NeVeR, NEVER, connect the leads across the battery terminals in this mode.

If the reading starts with 3 'zero's', then disconnect the meter, adjust the dial to milliamps (mA), move the red lead to the jack with the same marking (some meters share the same jack for both settings....but most don't), then repeat step 6 & 7.

The number you looking for on the meter in this test is 35 or smaller. OEM spec is about 30.

After completing the test, move the red meter lead back to the 'V' jack, so the meter is in a save setting.......then let us know what the test showed.
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  #22  
Old 05-10-2011, 05:18 PM
mikedirtbike mikedirtbike is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brad12kx View Post
.

The reading is expected...and good. However, it's the wrong test.
To test for IOD, you need to measure 'amp'....or in this case, milliamps. (thousandths of an amp).
WARNING - This test can cause serious and irreparable damage to your meter if performed wrong!
Perform the following test at your own risk!

Because we are testing for a possible over-current condition, we need to test in the 'amps' range first.
To test the IOD current draw -
1) Disconnect the underhood light if applicable.
2) Ensure all lights are off, doors are closed, keys are NOT in the ignition, and no-one is around to accidentally open a door during the test.
3) Disconnect the negative battery cable. (Although the test can be done on the positive side, it is recommended to do so on the negative side.)
4) Select the DC 'Amps' range on the meter. (Usually shows the letter 'A' with both a solid and dashed straight line under the 'A')
5) Move the positive lead of the meter to the jack marked with the same symbol (A with underline).
6) Connect the Red meter lead to the negative battery cable.
7) Connect the Black meter lead to the negative battery terminal.
Never, NeVeR, NEVER, connect the leads across the battery terminals in this mode.

If the reading starts with 3 'zero's', then disconnect the meter, adjust the dial to milliamps (mA), move the red lead to the jack with the same marking (some meters share the same jack for both settings....but most don't), then repeat step 6 & 7.

The number you looking for on the meter in this test is 35 or smaller. OEM spec is about 30.

After completing the test, move the red meter lead back to the 'V' jack, so the meter is in a save setting.......then let us know what the test showed.
I guess i'm using the wrong meter, So i need to shoot for 30ma+- .we'll do thanks.
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  #23  
Old 10-24-2011, 04:33 PM
stude2 stude2 is offline
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Just posted a question for same problem, used amp gauge ,4 amp drain pulled all fusses and breakers only main 50 amp dropped drain, checking further could hear seat belt retractors activating with key off, unplugged under seats problem gone but cant use seat belts need help finding why solenoids are activating
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  #24  
Old 01-24-2013, 03:28 PM
b3nko b3nko is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brad12kx View Post
.

The reading is expected...and good. However, it's the wrong test.
To test for IOD, you need to measure 'amp'....or in this case, milliamps. (thousandths of an amp).
WARNING - This test can cause serious and irreparable damage to your meter if performed wrong!
Perform the following test at your own risk!

Because we are testing for a possible over-current condition, we need to test in the 'amps' range first.
To test the IOD current draw -
1) Disconnect the underhood light if applicable.
2) Ensure all lights are off, doors are closed, keys are NOT in the ignition, and no-one is around to accidentally open a door during the test.
3) Disconnect the negative battery cable. (Although the test can be done on the positive side, it is recommended to do so on the negative side.)
4) Select the DC 'Amps' range on the meter. (Usually shows the letter 'A' with both a solid and dashed straight line under the 'A')
5) Move the positive lead of the meter to the jack marked with the same symbol (A with underline).
6) Connect the Red meter lead to the negative battery cable.
7) Connect the Black meter lead to the negative battery terminal.
Never, NeVeR, NEVER, connect the leads across the battery terminals in this mode.

If the reading starts with 3 'zero's', then disconnect the meter, adjust the dial to milliamps (mA), move the red lead to the jack with the same marking (some meters share the same jack for both settings....but most don't), then repeat step 6 & 7.

The number you looking for on the meter in this test is 35 or smaller. OEM spec is about 30.

After completing the test, move the red meter lead back to the 'V' jack, so the meter is in a save setting.......then let us know what the test showed.
Hey! So I used this thread to diagnose the problem and did in fact trace it to the "Ignition Off Draw (IOD)-Cabin Compartment Node" so thanks for the technical advice in that aspect. But, what should I do now? How can I further trace it to the culprit? Thanks in advance for your help, it is greatly appreciated...
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  #25  
Old 01-24-2013, 11:21 PM
brad12kx's Avatar
brad12kx brad12kx is offline
Just some guy in Canada


 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Brandon, MB
Posts: 22,792
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Trim Level: Sport
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Engine: 2009-20?? 345ci (5.7L) Hemi V8 390hp 407lb/ft
Rep Power: 21
Rep:2581
brad12kx has a reputation beyond reputebrad12kx has a reputation beyond reputebrad12kx has a reputation beyond reputebrad12kx has a reputation beyond reputebrad12kx has a reputation beyond reputebrad12kx has a reputation beyond reputebrad12kx has a reputation beyond reputebrad12kx has a reputation beyond reputebrad12kx has a reputation beyond reputebrad12kx has a reputation beyond reputebrad12kx has a reputation beyond repute
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b3nko View Post
Hey! So I used this thread to diagnose the problem and did in fact trace it to the "Ignition Off Draw (IOD)-Cabin Compartment Node" so thanks for the technical advice in that aspect. But, what should I do now? How can I further trace it to the culprit? Thanks in advance for your help, it is greatly appreciated...
Being a 2008, I take it you traced this to fuse 11. That being the case, here are the items that are powered (or partially powered) by this IOD fuse -
  • Underhood lamp
  • Radio
  • Remote Entry/Sentry Key module
  • Instrument cluster
  • Hands Free module
  • Satellite receiver
  • Media system (Monitors/DVD)
  • Electronic overhead module

The first thing to check is that you have disconnected the underhood light. This little critter has bit many a tech in the butt; it's an easy one to forget about.

After verifying that, the only thing you can do is disconnect one item at a time to see where how it affects the IOD current. Also of note, fuse 11 also supplies power to the Data Link connector (Diagnostics Jack) under the dash. Any chance you have some sort of electronic metering device connected to this port or someone has tapped into this 'power wire' to power some device??

Good luck in your tracing and keep us posted.
__________________
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Interested in one of my mods?
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Mods - 3M clear protect, Decals removed, Electric Tailgate Lock, Tow Hooks, Skid Plates, Bed Rug, Pace Edwards Bedlocker Electric Tonneau, Timbren Rear SES, Tinted Tail Lights, Debadged, Grill Blacked Out, Shorty Antenna, Black Chromed Emblems, Lightly tinted front windows, DS Predator, Cabin Air Filter, K&N Drop In, Mufflex (Magnaflo) DOD24M, Sonnax line pressure booster, Volant CAI
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  #26  
Old 01-31-2013, 10:20 AM
b3nko b3nko is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brad12kx View Post
Being a 2008, I take it you traced this to fuse 11. That being the case, here are the items that are powered (or partially powered) by this IOD fuse -
  • Underhood lamp
  • Radio
  • Remote Entry/Sentry Key module
  • Instrument cluster
  • Hands Free module
  • Satellite receiver
  • Media system (Monitors/DVD)
  • Electronic overhead module

The first thing to check is that you have disconnected the underhood light. This little critter has bit many a tech in the butt; it's an easy one to forget about.

After verifying that, the only thing you can do is disconnect one item at a time to see where how it affects the IOD current. Also of note, fuse 11 also supplies power to the Data Link connector (Diagnostics Jack) under the dash. Any chance you have some sort of electronic metering device connected to this port or someone has tapped into this 'power wire' to power some device??

Good luck in your tracing and keep us posted.
Ok so here's the update: It was getting worse and worse to the point where instead of being dead after 2 days, then 1 day, then several hours, then it died in under an hour and I mean DIED, as in no power at allll.... so I went back to basics: had the brand-new battery I purchased tested and it only had 450cca after driving 30min (with a good alternator) to this place, so we took it out, had it charged and re-tested: it was a dud! So I replaced it and had the new one tested before installation and it had 700cca off the shelf. So far so good, NO ELECTRICAL problems or drains, it just fires right up, with the remote start and everything. Anyway, I think I got REALLY REALLY lucky and hopefully it's good as new... if not, I'll post back lol. Thanks again for your support y'all!
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  #27  
Old 07-08-2014, 07:51 PM
rdbradleyjr rdbradleyjr is offline
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So I have the same problem but in reading this I think mine may be more than a fuse. On Friday my truck would not start. I took my alternator and battery up to Autozone to have them checked. The alternator tested ok but the battery was too dead to tell if it was faulty. So I replaced the battery and re-installed everything. The truck started up just fine, no problems whatsoever. Sunday afternoon I went to drive it and it was dead. And I mean dead, dead. Not a light, nothing. I didn't even drive the thing from the time I replaced the battery to Sunday when I tried to start it. I don't have anything after market on the truck. It's the original tape deck. What the heck can drain a brand new battery between Friday afternoon and Sunday afternoon?
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  #28  
Old 07-08-2014, 08:18 PM
b3nko b3nko is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdbradleyjr View Post
So I have the same problem but in reading this I think mine may be more than a fuse. On Friday my truck would not start. I took my alternator and battery up to Autozone to have them checked. The alternator tested ok but the battery was too dead to tell if it was faulty. So I replaced the battery and re-installed everything. The truck started up just fine, no problems whatsoever. Sunday afternoon I went to drive it and it was dead. And I mean dead, dead. Not a light, nothing. I didn't even drive the thing from the time I replaced the battery to Sunday when I tried to start it. I don't have anything after market on the truck. It's the original tape deck. What the heck can drain a brand new battery between Friday afternoon and Sunday afternoon?
Sounds like mine... Sorry I didn't post back like I said I would, but within a week of that last post, it started doing the same thing. So, i took the battery back to Autozone and traded it for another battery that had the highest Cranking-Amps rating. Apparently, The HEMI takes a lot of juice to turn over and once I changed that battery to one with more cranking amps it was fixed PERMANENTLY. Amps are the thing that don't reallt get replenished by the Alternator with regular driving... Good luck!
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