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2010 RAM mileage

6K views 40 replies 16 participants last post by  mrsprinkler 
#1 ·
Question for you experts...

I just bought a new RAM 1500 5.7L and it showed on sticker to get 14 city 18 hwy. I am no where close to that (12.0-12.6 mpg). The guy I bought it from has a new 10 with a hemi and he said he is averaging good gas. All he has done is a KN&N. I have a 3.92 axel ratio and I don't think it makes THAT much of difference between 3.55/3.92

Any of yall know what I can do to boost my gas mileage...I don't run my truck hard, try staying below 2200 rpm while driving unless I'm getting on a hwy or passing someone. Gas mileage is about the only downfall I have had with this truck compared to my Titan (avg 15 in city) and my UConnect not working fully with my iPhone 4.

Anyways, any input will greatly help and look forward to boosting my mpg!

Have a safe new year!
 
#3 ·
Thanks...

Although, after reading through the first 3-5 threads it consisted of everyone just stating what mileage they got and some weren't converted to MPG (useless to me lol)..

I am asking what can I do...to improve my 12.6 mpg?? I definitely see that there are many others getting better gas mileage with same axel ratio and motor that I have, so I am not aware if I need to do a cheap improvement such as a KN&N or spend a little money and put a CAI on... Any and all input will definitely help and I will definitely consider doing!
 
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#6 ·
My 10 Hemi Sport 4x4 with 3.92's is getting less than stellar mileage, mind you I did not buy it for good MPG's. The truck has 3000 miles on the od and at this point I am getting approximately 14mpg/city and low 20's on the highway. Up this way I believe the window sticker would show 18/25 mpg. 95% of the time I drive the truck like gramps so either the truck is still breaking itself in or well I don't know.

I found out how fast the truck will go on Mon coming back from our Christmas holiday, 170 kmph or approximatelyu 105mph. I was somewhat surprised at how the truck felt re planted with no bobbing and weaving. I would think I only had the pedal to the medal for approx 1-2 miles and it was 11 am so traffic was non existant.
 
#7 ·
I have added a mufflex 18 inch and a access lorado tonneau cover to my truck. I see around 16mpg in mixed driving and around 20 on the freeway cruising at around 65.

Best ways to increase mileage is to get the engine to be more efficient and work easier to produce its power. CAI, Exhaust, Programmer are good places to start.

Make sure you are not carrying around any unnecessary cargo, bowling ball? Golf clubs?

Check that the tires are inflated to recommended pressures (I run mine towards the high end of the scale)

There are some more that I can't think of now
 
#9 ·
Couple of things....

- The EVIC mileage is about as accurate as you're gonna get. You can hand calculate all you like, but you'll never know exactly how much fuel you've got in the tank when you fill, even if you use the same pump the same way every time. Unless you're adding a precise amount of gas and running until the engine quits, you're guessing as to how much fuel you're using.

- Don't count on your TPMS for correct tire pressure. Use a good pressure gauge, and check your tires frequently. Run them a pound or two above the recommended pressure.

- Cold weather screws with mileage. It takes much longer for your engine and transmission to warm up. The longer that takes, the more internal friction there is to overcome, and you burn more gas. Then there's the simple physics that colder air is denser, so even at cruise, you're using more gas. Then there's winter fuel blends. Then there's the extra weight of snow and slush on the undercarriage.

- I run 87 octane. You'll make more power with 89, but unless the PCM is far more advanced than most, you won't see a mileage benefit. The higher the octane, the more energy it takes to ignite the A/F mixture. FWIW, I haven't bothered to try 89, so I have no direct evidence of this, however I'm not familiar with any manufacturer's PCM that will increase efficiency during part-throttle, low-load conditions like highway cruising.

- You can spend a pile of money on mufflers, CAIs, flash tuners and the like. Mufflers and intakes will make more noise, might add some power, and probably won't do diddley for mileage. The flash tuners (like the Preadator) don't touch part-throttle timing (per Diablosport), so other than leaning out the cruise A/F ratio (which wouldn't be a very good idea), they're not going to increase mileage appreciably either. If it were possible to gain 2-3mpg by changing mufflers, intakes, or PCM programming, Dodge would do it from the get-go in order to inflate their CAFE numbers.

- I have a BakFlip F1. Part of the reason I got it was to help with mileage. After 12,000 miles, the best I can say is that it doesn't hurt mileage, and it helps stability in crosswinds.

- The single best way to reduce fuel consumption is to slow down. Balloon-foot your way to better mileage.

I took the picture below on Sunday. It was in the upper 20s, and the wind was gusting up to 45mph. I'm damn happy with that for winter mileage in a 6,000+ pound truck.
 

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#11 ·
HEMILANCER said:
what speeds do u cruise at? and do u know if the mds is working? how much mileage also?
I drive 12 odd miles to the fire department one way and back. I might use my truck on my off days for around town errands. MDS seems to work on my truck but I just bought my truck and only has 500 miles. I am still getting use to how to work that system effectively...I see that barely putting pressure on the pedal will keep it on but any more will turn off and won't come back on until I am on a flat surface at an even speed, or going downhill. I carry nothing but my 230 pound body in the truck!

Flaminchiten said:
I have added a mufflex 18 inch and a access lorado tonneau cover to my truck. I see around 16mpg in mixed driving and around 20 on the freeway cruising at around 65.

Best ways to increase mileage is to get the engine to be more efficient and work easier to produce its power. CAI, Exhaust, Programmer are good places to start.

Make sure you are not carrying around any unnecessary cargo, bowling ball? Golf clubs?

Check that the tires are inflated to recommended pressures (I run mine towards the high end of the scale)

There are some more that I can't think of now
To be honest, I don't want the sound and all that on the truck... I am kind of out of that stage and can do without on exhaust. CAI I don't mind.

-- Tire pressures would be an ideal thing to make sure is always on a higher side.

05Train said:
You can hand calculate all you like, but you'll never know exactly how much fuel you've got in the tank when you fill, even if you use the same pump the same way every time. Unless you're adding a precise amount of gas and running until the engine quits, you're guessing as to how much fuel you're using.
You have me a little confused on this concept...especially going to the same pump every time. If i put in an even 20 gallons and drove X amount of miles...then how is that not accurate? It's not like the gas pump is sitting up hill or downhill, so the tank is level...I would definitely believe that the hand calc is more accurate than the EVIC system. Can you explain a little more...?

** Thanks for all the input so far, I really do appreciate it! **
 
#13 ·
You have me a little confused on this concept...especially going to the same pump every time. If i put in an even 20 gallons and drove X amount of miles...then how is that not accurate? It's not like the gas pump is sitting up hill or downhill, so the tank is level...I would definitely believe that the hand calc is more accurate than the EVIC system. Can you explain a little more...?
How much gas is in your tank? You're adding 20 gallons, but what's already in there? The only way to accurately hand calculate your mileage is to run the truck until it's out of gas, add your 20 gallons (or whatever), then run it out of gas again.

The March 2009 Car & Driver truck comparo put the curb weight of a 1500 Laramie Crew Cab 4x4 at 5840 pounds, I'm rounding up figuring the odds and ends I carry with me. Got a better source with a different weight, post it, but it really doesn't make a difference in this discussion whether the truck weighs 6,000 pounds or 5,000 pounds.
 
#12 ·
the 2010 laramie quad cab with full options weighs
Curb weight: 5040 lbs.
i get 17+ mpg, & i always weigh 6,300 pounds, with all my gear in the bed, weighed at a public scale house, my Rams mileage improved as i put more miles on it, it currently has 36,000 miles on it, for the longest time i was getting 15.8 mpg
 
#14 · (Edited)
Well now I'm really confused b/c neither you or the OP has a crewcab or a Laramie. I used the Dodge Ram site first then the C&D long term test truck. But like your post the C&D l/t test truck is a crewcab 4x4 (5680 lbs) with Ramboxes and not quadcab.

http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews...00_slt_4x4_crew_cab-long-term_road_test_intro

weight is actually one of the biggest factors when it comes to gas mileage that is why every manufacturer on the planet is starting to use more aluminum, carbon fiber and lightweight plastics. why you would think weight is not a gas mileage factor is beyond me.
 
#15 ·
Not saying that weight's not a factor in gas mileage. What I am saying is that regardless of what my truck weighs, I'm getting the mileage I'm getting, which is better than what the window sticker advertised.

The 6,000 pound number was off the top of my head, and is probably within a hundred pounds or so of the actual weight of the truck as it sits.
 
#16 ·
How much are you gettin? What have you found helps your mpg the best? I've played around with different driving "techniques" and hwy speeds to see how much the mpg will vary and the HEMI sure can guzzle if you let it. I've never been to MD...is it hilly up there or flat?

I did a FL to CA to VA drive 6 months after getting my truck (and I know this is obvious) but winds and hills (even slight grades) made a difference. At the time I had 3.55 gears and if I maintained approx 68 mph I could manage about 20-21 mpg. Once I started to increase speed the mpgs would start to drop. I've only had my 4.10s about 2 months now and haven't taken any hwy trips yet but to/from work is 23 miles and the traffic is a crap shoot so I can't get an accurate hwy number.

GTyankee has me wanting to find a scale around here to see what I weigh.
 
#17 ·
I'll be going by the county landfill on the way home to get the actual weight.

My work commute is 43 miles each way, 39 miles of that is the DC Beltway, I-95, and a couple of other highways. The remaining 4 miles are either residential streets or 2-lanes with stoplights. My personal best for the trip is an indicated 21.2mpg from a cold start. There are some relatively substantial hills in the 2 miles closest to my house, and if I hit red lights through there, it buries the instant mileage bar. Given typical traffic, and the stop & go stuff I do during the day (I'm a salesman, so I'm on the road a fair amount), I generally average around 17~18mpg. I can't say I'm displeased with that.

Like you, I've found that anything over 65mph starts taking its toll on mileage, though I seem to do better at 65 than 55 when I come to inclines. I've also noticed better mileage using my right foot rather than cruise control, primarily because I come completely off the gas when I'm going downhill. Any sort of traffic murders the mileage, and wind plays a pretty big factor as well.

For the helluvit I filled up with 89 today to see if it makes a difference in mileage. In order for it to be cost effective, it'll have to be at least a 1mpg difference to overcome the increased cost of the fuel.
 
#19 ·
Thanks. It's a PITA driving it like that, but as many miles as I drive, I try to save where I can.

Stopped at the landfill and weighed the truck on the way home. It's a state certified scale, and it came in at 5,815.

So, my 2010 Quad Cab 4x4 Sport, with 200 pounds of me, a full tank of gas, a Bakflip F1, GoRhino bed rails and 5" oval step bars, under the rail Line-X, and the various straps and tools I keep under the back seat, I'm a whopping 185 pounds under the 6,000 pound weight I guessed at.

I can live with that.

But that's a testament to how good of a job Dodge has done with both the Hemi and the Ram. For a truck that makes this kind of power and is as big, heavy, and far off the ground as it is to be able to get 20+ mpg under any circumstances is damn impressive.

For reference, I had a 2007 Silverado Z-71 with the 5.3 that couldn't do any better than 19mpg no matter how gently I drove it.
 
#21 ·
Well, so far since I am now on my 3rd tank it seems to be improving compared to the first 2. I am driving a little better but I am thinking that doing a tonneau cover will definitely improve it for wind flow. I had one on my Titan and it improved tremendously...

Hopefully it continues to jump, I am going off the EVIC system as of right now but I will still like to see how it is hand calc.

05Train...your message makes sense, but no matter whether its the last 20 gallons of my truck ran to empty, or the first 20 gallons from the top of the tank, 20 gallons is 20 gallons....so unless there is something huge hiding that I am missing it seems pretty common math to do. I will see on my next fill up what hand calc comes to.
 
#22 ·
05Train...your message makes sense, but no matter whether its the last 20 gallons of my truck ran to empty, or the first 20 gallons from the top of the tank, 20 gallons is 20 gallons....so unless there is something huge hiding that I am missing it seems pretty common math to do. I will see on my next fill up what hand calc comes to.
How do you know how much gas is in your tank when you start filling it? How do you know when you've used exactly 20 gallons? It is very simple math to do if you can answer those two questions, and the only way to know that is to run the tank dry. You can't count on the "full" tank being exactly 26 (or 32) gallons either, because the pump shutoff is going to occur at different points as well.

So if you fill the tank until the pump shuts off, drive it around, then refill it until the pump shuts off, you'll be able to hand calculate it relatively closely, but you're doing that based on the assumption that the tank was equally full to begin with. That can be a really inaccurate assumption.

The EVIC bases its computations on consumption, and you've got the odometer and DTE displays to work with too. That's going to be more accurate.
 
#24 ·
gabrieldy said:
Titans may be different but if you are thinking about buying a tonneau cover solely for the purpose of gas mileage you may want to read this.

http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=69626
Hmm thanks for that, I guess with the titan the cover did make a difference due to the airflow and design of the truck.

On a side note, I think I would still like one to keep stuff secure and dry, but I would really like to have one that is already match painted.

What is your input on CAI or just a drop in KN&N filter for mpg increase? yay or nay and why?

I am looking at trying to do everything to increase my MPG.
 
#25 ·
the stock intake is really good on the gen 4s. I only did a drop in b/c of that reason and also b/c $300 is a lot for a CAI for maybe 5-10rwhp.

the best way to get better mileage is your driving habits as much as I hate to say it. I did my exhaust for a little better sound and a couple of hp, the drop in b/c I'll never have to buy a filter again and if it gave me anything then that's a plus and well the 4.10s b/c I wanted the truck to be a little more fun from time to time. I bought my tonneau for the reasons you noted and hoped it would help mpgs but I don't think it did plus I think they look good.

I am by no means trying to talk you or anyone out of buying mods. Trust me I'm pretty bad myself but if you are doing it for mpgs then look at it from a monetary standpoint.

let's assume you drive 15,000 miles per year, gas is $3 per gallon and you get an avg of 18 mpg. this means you spend $2500 in gas. (if you drive less the savings per year will be lower)

if a CAI gives you 1 mpg better you'll save $131.58 each year...I think they claim more mpgs. (2+ years to pay itself off)

a tonneau cover gives another 1 mpg and you are now saving $250 each year with both.

an exhaust maybe 0.5 mpg I think you see where I'm going with this. If it were this easy Dodge with all their R&D and more importantly trying to meet CAFE numbers would do this stuff from the get go. If they could add 2-3 more mpgs that would do a lot for them in their advertising campaign against the others too. I'm mean who doesn't want better mpgs in this day and age. Now the flip side is cost to them and would it be beneficial. Dodge is also trying to build a truck for the masses. Some people don't want the noise that comes with a CAI or exhaust.

Sorry for the rant and the tangents. I say do the mods for personal reasons and if you get better mpgs then it's a win-win. Of course it will be harder to stay outta the gas too when you end up with some more power!!
 
#26 ·
I couldn't agree with 05train any more. He is right on the money with his mpg theory. I've done all the "tricks" to try to improve gas mileage in any truck I have owned. Done the CAI, exhausts, tonneau covers, programs, octane boosters, and the like and have noticed some decent performance gains, but jack diddly on mpg gains. It absolutely comes down to weight, temperature, and how you drive. Plain and simple.
 
#27 ·
Gabriel...

Think you did a good job summing it up. The way you drive is the best way to save. I have seen the EVIC jump tremendously on this last tank so far and we will see what it comes to hand calc when the tank is done.

I definitely agree about the mods...do them cause you want because obviously it will eventually pay itself off but not in a timely manner, do it for looks/sounds/performance.

I read 05trains post on the simple things to do and I went thru my truck and topped off all the air pressure, removed all excess weight, understanding its cold weather down south right now ha ha, and the remainder of what he suggested..
 
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