STEERING COLUMN
The steering column bracket rear mounts that the studs or bolts go through on both sides of the steering column have a plastic/metal capsule designed to fracture or move when enough force to damage the steering column has occurred. There are 2 steering column mounting capsules, one on each side of the column. A collapse may occur where the tube housing may move into the rear bracket assembly OR the tube may move inside the tube housing. Typically if this type of collapse happens, the capsules should have indicated damage. However, if the any of the following steps indicate a collapse, the steering column will still need replacement.
NOTE: All illustrations within this procedure are typical; however the steering column capsules are the same in all vehicles.
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1.Grasp the steering wheel at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions, and again at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions and attempt to rock the steering wheel back and forth and up and down. If there is excessive movement or an audible clunking or grinding sound, replace the steering column
(Refer to 19 - Steering/Column - Removal) .2.Remove the steering column opening cover
(Refer to 23 - Body/Instrument Panel/COVER, Steering Column Opening - Removal) .3.If equipped, remove the retaining screws (1) and the steering column opening cover reinforcement (2).
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4.Visually inspect for fractures in the plastic area (1) and movement in the metal area (2) of the two capsules while pushing and pulling the steering wheel up and down, and left and right.5.If capsules are fractured or have moved, replace the steering column
(Refer to 19 - Steering/Column - Removal) .
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6.Loosen the steering column retaining bolts (or nuts) (2, 5) several turns but do not remove. Remove
only one of the rear retaining bolts (or nuts) (2). Verify that the capsule has movement, but it should not slide out of the bracket assembly. If the capsule
does come out of the bracket assembly, replace the steering column
(Refer to 19 - Steering/Column - Removal) .7.Install the previously removed bolt (or nut) (2) several turns, and remove the opposite one (2) and check that capsule in the same way. If the capsule
does come out of the bracket assembly, replace the steering column
(Refer to 19 - Steering/Column - Removal) .8.Install the steering column retaining bolts (or nuts) (2, 5) and tighten to 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.).
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9.Measure the distance from the brake switch mounting bracket (4) to the flat of the rear mounting bracket (3). If less than 144 mm (5.6875 in. or 5 -11/16 in.), replace the steering column
(Refer to 19 - Steering/Column - Removal) .10.If the steering column passes all tests and measurements above, the steering column is not collapsed and should not need to be replaced.
SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM WIRING REPAIRS
It is important when repairing any Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) electrical circuits to use the recommended splicing kit and procedure. For applicable and available MOPAR wiring repair kits, please visit the MOPAR Connector Web Site at the following address on the internet: (
http://dto.vftis.com/mopar/disclaimer.asp).
This recommended procedure involves crimping the wires together with a splice band, soldering the crimped connection and, finally, sealing and protecting the repair. The crimp and solder ensure a strong mechanical bond that will always pass a pull test while also maintaining the conductivity and current carrying capacity of the circuit. The adhesive sealant and heat shrink tubing ensures the splice repair will perform as well or better than the original wire and be safe from potential corrosion or short circuits.
There is no limit to the number of splice repairs that can be made in one harness using this procedure. However, as has been past practice, multiple adjacent splices should be offset from each other. This wiring splice repair procedure is approved for harness side repairs only. Repairs and splices to pigtail wires on SRS components such as airbag units, seat belt tensioner units or clocksprings are not approved or recommended.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
CAUTION: If additional wire is needed when making a splice repair to any wire, it is important that the same or next larger size wire gauge be used. Refer to the appropriate wiring diagram for the original wire gauge size.
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1.Remove 13 millimeters (0.50 inch) of insulation from each wire that needs to be spliced.2.Place a piece of adhesive sealant-lined heat shrink tubing (Part Number 0477Torque Wrench or equivalent) over the wire on one side of the splice. Be certain the length of tubing will be sufficient to cover and seal the entire repair area.3.Place the strands of the wires being spliced so that they are overlapping each other within the splice band (1).
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4.Using a crimping tool (1) (MOPAR Part Number 05019912AA, Miller Special Tool Number Crimper, Wire/Terminal or equivalent) crimp the splice band and wires together securely.
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CAUTION: Never use acid core solder for electrical wiring repairs.
5.Using rosin core type solder (1) only and a suitable soldering iron (3), solder the wire and splice band connection (2) together.
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6.Center the heat shrink tubing (2) over the splice joint repair and heat using a suitable heat gun. Heat the joint until the tubing is tightly sealed and sealant (1) begins to ooze out of both ends of the tubing.