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Balljoints

2K views 8 replies 3 participants last post by  the persuader 
#1 ·
I've got my truck in the shop for a wheel hub and axles u joints right now. They say the lower ball joints are crap (which I kinda expected). I was quoted over $900 to replace upper, lower and alignment. Seems pretty steep to me, does anybody know what the average cost for this is?
 
#2 ·
It's hard to be very specific since labor rates vary widely from place to place. I would expect to pay in the neighborhood of 4 hours of their labor rate, the alignment and whatever the parts cost. Parts cost can also vary widely dependin on the brand and source, plus the shops markup. I presume that quote doesn't include the hub and axle joints? Since labor times will overlap, the total labor on everything minus the alignment should be no more than 6 hours, and that's being reasonably generous toward the shop.
 
#3 ·
RamTech, I was hoping you'd respond since you've helped me out with all of my previous questions.

No, the hub and u joints aren't included. They basically said the lower ball joints are shot and the uppers not too far behind.

I just thought $900+ seemed pretty steep. I can't afford it right now and may have to take a weekend off and do it myself if it's going to be that much.
 
#4 ·
That's a pretty serious project you're undertaking and you'll need a couple of special tools. Since you're already replacing one hub, you don't have to fear destroying it in the process of removing it, so I would suggest you do that one first to get an idea of what it takes to get it out. I would make sure I at least had access to a second bearing in case you have to destroy both to get them out. I made a tool that can be used in conjunction with a puller to remove these hubs. It's simply a shallow 1/2 drive socket that fits the hub bolts and a 1/2 inch drive 3 inch extension. It's used by placing the socket on the bolt after loosening them about 1/2 inch and then turning the wheel and trapping the tool between the bolt and axle housing. With the engine running, continue turning the wheel and they hydraulic pressure will help force the hub out. On a diesel powered truck, this is done at idle but in a gasser. you'll likely need the help of a HD hub puller as well.
 
#5 ·
ah... I have done front suspension work on 2wd IFS trucks, but didn't realize ball joints would be that much harder on a SFA.

I got my truck back, they ended up replacing the passenger hub. The quote for the balljoints was $795 + alignment at $90...
 
#6 ·
I'd shop around because you may find a better price. Just make sure they quote and use good parts. You may even want to consider getting your own parts from Rock Auto and having someone put them in for you if you don't want to do it. You have a lot of options, so weigh them all before deciding.
 
#7 ·
I finally got em done. Parts for all 4 ball joints and the front axle u joints were $165. Lowest quote I had was $800 for just the ball joints.

That being said, I don't wish ball joint repairs on my worst enemy. I had to take it to a friend's house and use a torch and a BFH to get em out. The press I rented at Napa sucked.

I just ordered new tie rod outers because mine were completely shot, so I'll put those on and get it aligned.
 
#8 ·
I just did everything you did about 2 months ago... upper and lower ball joints and inner/ outer tie rods. I hated every part of it. I broke a ball joint press on my truck...
I could crawl up under my truck and grab onto the tie rod bars and move everything with ease. It was all way too worn out

There are other steering options you can run on the truck that help fix the stock problems. Check this company out
http://thurenfabrication.com/crossover.html
Stock steering on these trucks are junk. They get worn out way too fast and don't align right anyways. I wish I knew that before I replaced all my stuff with stock design
 
#9 ·
I've heard great things about Thuren, but I can't afford the prices. I also just put a new wheel hub on the drivers side.

So far I've replaced everything except the sway bar end links/bushings, control arm bushings, and the track bar. Getting it aligned once I receive my tie rods.
 
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