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Need tips for DIY dash and door bezel painting plz.

6K views 6 replies 6 participants last post by  ICEMAN99TURBO 
#1 ·
I have an SLT that came stock with the woodgrain around the stereo and on each door above the controls. I think it looks cheap and doesn't match the rest of the truck at all. I'd like to have those pieces painted silver but I'm not sure exactly how to go about doing it. I'm also not interested in buying new bezels/panels/overlays unless I screw this up. haha!!!

I know that the doors and the dash are all one piece and I've read up on how to remove them prior to painting.

What kind of paint should I use?
Will it look cheaper than it already does?
What kind of paint is the most scratch resistent?
Should I prep the plastic prior to painting?
Is there anything that can be sprayed or applied over the paint after it's dried to help make it last and keep from scratching?
How long should it dry?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm going to try it out this weekend.
 
#3 ·
I used to do this for a living. Like wermbag states use an adhesion promoter. I do not understand if you are wanting to paint the wood parts or replace with original plastic and paint those. If so make sure they are clean, use soapy water and alcohol to clean and dry well, scuff with a scotchbrite pad and use an adhesion promotor, many of your AutoZone and Advance Auto parts store have those in the DFW area. a light coat of a primer and use a bumper primer if they have it. Several light coats, sand with 1000 wet sand paper and wash with soapy water rinse well and allow to dry. Then apply your paint. I would make sure you clear with a urethane which will make them pretty scratch resistant.
I get to DFW often if you want to meet and I can show you how :smileup:
 
#4 ·
Dave has it.

If you plan on painting plastic more than once, might as well buy a can of bullydog adhesion promoter.
Just sand with 600ish,800ish, then a good degreaser, then two light coats of the adhesion promoter, then a filler primer for the sanding marks (2 med coats), wet sand, then base (I do one light, then two medium), then I would go ahead and do a light coat of clear. After flash I would probably do at least two heavy clears (right before it runs) with at least 20min in between

Extra clear cant hurt and when you finish up by wetsanding and buffing you wont worry about sanding through. And a thicker clear will make it look glossier
 
#5 ·
If you're just looking to change the color of the hard interior vinyl pieces, I'd look at a vinyl/fabric dye. Duplicolor makes a good product, I've turned my entire interior black using it and don't have any issues except where I'm constantly gouging the vinyl and it shows the stock color... but a quick spray with the can I keep in the truck and noone's any wiser. When using the dye, I use a good degreaser followed by a good scuffing with a green scotchbrite pad, rinse, and follow with another degrease and rinse. I use simple green.

It's easy to do, just takes time to do it, so set aside a full weekend where you'll have your interior pulled apart.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for all the replies and advice. I think I'm going to try a kit from carid.com or something similiar. I don't think I've got the talent enough to pull off a decent looking DIY paint job.
 
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