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Inexpensive Remote Start using OEM key fobs

170K views 367 replies 133 participants last post by  bparsel 
#1 ·
Hey guys. Wanted to do a little write up on my remote start installation.
I searched and searched to try and find someone who had written about this before and couldn't, so I figured I would give it a shot. I apologize if this information has already been presented here.

What: This post is about easily installing an inexpensive remote start in a 2009 Dodge Ram. A Xpresskit DB-ALL is used along with a T-Harness to quickly add remote start capability to the Ram using the OEM key fob.

DB-ALL
Technology Electronic device Electronics Cable Electronics accessory


CHTHD1 T-Harness (for 09-12 models)
Cable Wire Auto part Electrical wiring Technology


Cost: Typically under $100 depending on where and what you buy. I spent $83. You can spend as little as $55, or as much as $115. These are of course best online prices at the time I write this.

How it works: Start your truck with OEM key fob by pressing the lock button 3x.

What is installed: 1 module is installed. The module is a DB-ALL and it is Plug and Play with the optional CHTHD1. No wire splicing, no wire cutting. After flashing the module on your laptop or desktop, you only have about a 10 minute install to get your remote start working. Maybe 20 if you take your time.

If you want to skip the commentary, you can skip on down to the Install portion.

Note: This applies only to a 2009 Dodge Ram. I think the 3x OEM Remote Start can be used on Multiple Chrysler vehicles, and 06-12 Ram, but I’ll leave it up to you to check your particular vehicle at the Xpresskit website to see what works. The programming sequences and wiring are similar for other Chrysler vehicles, but may be different.

My truck is a 2009 Ram CC Black 4x4. I had been looking for a remote start since it started getting cold last year. I’ve had one on my other Ram for about 10 years, and when I got this truck it was a big adjustment not having it. On my old truck, I installed a Viper 550. This was back when I worked at Circuit City. It was a lot of wires, but very few if any electronic deterrents to deal with. No factory alarm, no chip in key, just straight wire to wire.

With the new truck, I've been apprehensive to tear into the wiring. With the 1 wire multiplex stuff, I didn’t want to mess anything up. When I started looking for RS systems, I decided I wanted to use my key fob and not have to use an additional remote. Everybody wants a little remote that sings and dances and talks to them, with a mile range, and to each their own (I think those are really cool), but I didn’t want that. My old RS was supposed to have a 2000 ft range. I don’t think in ten years I’ve ever been farther than 200 ft away and started it. The only time I use it is from inside the house, and that’s about 30 ft away. I have nothing against the fancy ones, they’re just not what I was looking for.

I saw that a lot of guys are buying the Mopar RS systems and putting most of the unit in themselves and then having the dealer do the rest. I thought at first I would do this. But after hearing the stories of $300, $400, $500 being spent on them total, I realized I didn’t want to go down that road. Plus I’m not all that excited about visiting the dealership.

I will say that the reason I’m doing this little write up on this process is because I have spent the better part of a month and a couple hundred dollars getting this process to work. I first bought an Avital 4003 and a CHALL unit. The first Avital was defective, so I got another one. The new one worked, but the only way to trigger it to start the vehicle was to pulse it with a lock signal. I didn’t want to get that involved, so I kept looking for other solutions. I will say I’ve got an Avital 4003 and a CHALL unit laying around if anyone wants a good deal on them. I say all of this mainly to show my disgust with how DEI and Xpresskit has convoluted the whole process of Remote Starts. They have taken this process and added so many layers to it that it becomes this conglomerate of confusing thoughts that becomes very annoying. You would see what I mean if you have ever went online and tried to decide on a particular setup, and find the modules for it. I guess it is their way to keep the money at the Installation Houses and dealers. I think the lack of transparency in a company will ultimately hurt them in the long run. They have about four of five different “Brand Names” that is virtually the same product. And that is just for the parent company DEI. Xpresskit does the same thing with their modules. They make so many different ones that are just a little bit different. But hey, that’s capitalism. And I like it. I’ll get off my soap box here.

Install
So here is my install.

Features:
1) Use Factory Key Fob remote to start and stop engine.
2) Only 1 remote to start and run truck
3) No trip to dealer
4) Much cheaper than Mopar.
5) Plug and Play. NO splicing wires.
6) 10 minute install (No joke, 10 minutes under the dash, well maybe 20)
7) Inexpensive: $50 for DB-ALL ($55 for pre-flashed unit from thebay) + $28 for CHTHD1 T-Harness +$29 for the XKLoader2
8) If you are really strapped for cash, you can do the whole thing for $55 by buying a pre-flashed DB-ALL and hardwiring it to your key module.


Parts: DEI Xpresskit DB-ALL
Technology Electronic device Electronics Cable Electronics accessory


CHTHD1 T-Harness
Cable Wire Auto part Electrical wiring Technology


XKLoader2 (if you program yourself)
Electronic device Technology Electronics Cable Wire



Step 1: Flash DB-ALL

Electronic device Technology Electronics Cable Wire


Flashing the DB-ALL is done by using the XKLoader2 to link up to the Xpresskit website and download the right platform for whatever vehicle you’re installing it in.
I did not use the XKLoader2. Actually I didn’t even buy one. I had thought about it, but decided to give it a go and see if it would work with having someone flash it for me. I bought my DB-ALL from a guy on the electronicbay and he programmed it for me. I paid an extra $5 for this service. It saved me from spending $30 on the XKLoader2.
Whatever way you decide to do it, you’ll end up with the same result.

Note: When the XKLoader2 is setting up the DB-ALL, make sure that Program Option 1 is set to RF Out ON. This is what allows the DB-ALL to be a stand-alone starter. No aftermarket starter required. Only with this set to ON will the OEM remote FOB be able to signal the DB-ALL to start the truck.

Step 2: Hook Up DB-ALL

This is a really simple process.
First you take the knee panel off. There are two Phillips head screws that hold it on*.
Trunk Vehicle Vehicle door Car Automotive exterior


After you take the two screws out, the bottom just pulls straight out, and then the whole thing shifts vertical to be lifted off the lower dash. The OBD2 connector and the Hood Release will still be attached. You can leave these on the panel and just lay it down. You will certainly see where the dust has been collecting. I just want to say that I do keep my truck clean and you can’t judge a vehicle based on the back side of a dash panel.
Vehicle Car Minivan Family car Compact mpv



At this point we need figure out how to take the plug out from the back of the key module. We can take the four screws out of the module and pull it out to work on it, or we can just remove the plug from the rear of the key module. This is done by pushing down the plastic notch on top of the connector on the left hand side and gently pulling the male connector out from the key module. If you study the connectors on the CHTHD1 T-Harness, you’ll quickly get the idea.
Here is a picture of the Key module with the knee panel off. You can see the four torx screws.
Vehicle Car Auto part Family car


Reaching around and pulling out the connector is by far the quickest easiest way to do it. I took the module out to take the pictures, but that was the only reason. I would first try and pull the connector out by hand, and if that doesn’t work in a minute or so, then you could take the four torx screws out and pull the module out to look at it.

Key module removed.
Auto part Camera Machine Cameras & optics Vehicle



In this picture you see the key module with the plug. Your plug probably won’t look so taped up, but I earlier hard-wired the DB-ALL during some troubleshooting, and then later had to solder, heat shrink, and tape the wires back up.
You’ll see the notch on the top that when depressed will allow the plug to come out .
Auto part Vehicle



Now that the plug is out we can hook up the CHTHD1 (or CHTHD2 or hardwire) T-Harness. This is pretty self explanatory. The male plug from the truck goes into the female plug on the harness, and the male plug from the CHTHD1 T-Harness goes into the back of the key module. The male plug from the T-Harness on the one I got was a little rough. The plug is an AMP Research plug that has little wings on the sides that snap closed after the pins have been inserted. On mine, a little wing on each side had not quite been closed by the machine, and left the plug out of square by a few mils. This made it an akward fit. I’m sure that yours will go straight in and you won’t have any problems though…

Here is a picture of the rear of the key module ignition unit in case anyone is interested.
Auto part Technology Automotive exterior Electronic device



Picture of the CHTHD1 T-Harness with the DB-ALL and key module
Technology Electronic device Electronics Cable Wire



The male end plugged into the key module
Wire Technology Electronic device Cable Vehicle



The male plug from the truck plugged into the female plug from the CHTHD1 T-Harness. The key module has been re-installed.
Wire Electrical wiring Light Auto part Cable


Electronics Auto part Technology Electronic device Vehicle


Step 3: Program DB-ALL to Truck

Plug the CHTH1 T-Harness into the DB-ALL. You will get a solid red or a flashing orange LED.
Auto part Electronic device Gadget



If you have a solid red or flashing orange LED, you then put the key in the ignition and turn to on. The LED will start flashing green.
You then take the key out of the ignition and push the lock button on the remote. The LED will will turn solid green or orange for 3 seconds then go off. The DB-ALL is now programmed.

To test your remote start: Take the remote and press the lock button 3x within 3 seconds. The DB-ALL will click and the green LED will flash and the truck should begin its start sequence.

Two safety items that I did not mention are, a hood pin switch and a neutral safety switch. You should definitely hook these up.

Results:
Mine has been reliably starting now for a couple days. The headlights and parking lights come on when it is started if the lights are set to auto and it is dark, otherwise no lights come on. There is a wire that can be hooked up to make your parking lights come on if you want that. One big thing that works great is the ability to remotely unlock the doors while the truck is running. I was afraid that the remote wouldn't unlock the doors since the truck thought that the key was in the ignition, but everything works as it should.

I started it as I was coming out of a department store, maybe 250 ft or so, but it was line of sight. It takes a couple tries to get the 3x push down pat, but after a few times you get the hang of it.

Overall I'm very happy with the setup. It is exactly what I set out to do. Except that the time frame was stretched out much farther than I would have liked to see it. I think anyone wanting a basic remote start will enjoy this. It doesn't roll down the windows or anything fancy, but my wife's suv will roll down the windows and open the sunroof with the remote and we have never one time used that.

Sorry that the pics are the small attachments. I couldn't figure out how to show the large pictures.
I hope this helps someone who may be having trouble with their install, or are having trouble deciphering the code that is DEI Xpresskit.
Sorry for all the commentary. It was kinda built up from about a month of messing around with this stuff.
I made a video that I will put on UTube of the install if anyone is interested.
If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask.

--Kyle
 
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#204 · (Edited)
Ok,

So after reading most of the posts in this thread earlier today, I knew what I had to ask for when ordering a pre-programmed unit.

Now that I've come back to finish the few posts I didn't read earlier, I don't remember the details, and haven't quickly found them searching through the earlier posts.

How exactly do I have to ask for it to be programmed for a 2012 Ram? I know there have been a bunch of people who have had to have it reprogrammed because a setting was set on, when it should be off or whatever.

What are the exact instructions I need to give to a seller on e-bay, to assure that it will work first time, assuming they program it correctly? What is the setting that I must empasize they get right, (since as it is set by default, is the wrong setting to work on a a 2012), to make sure it works when I get it???

Also, while your at it, wouldn't hurt to confirm the harness model needed. If you know that answer, the harness is a simple answer as well....but probably easier found than the unknown programming setting I'm looking for....

I can't remember, and it's kinda a technical thing that isn't easily remembered anyway.

Thanks... this is the best thread I've read anywhere in a long time!
 
#205 ·
i bought mine from this guy http://www.ebay.com/itm/120965744748?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I don't know who he is or who they are... regardless, all I told him is I need it for a 2012 RAM 1500 - it has the dball and the harness together on his auction. As soon as I got it... plugged it in and fired right up. Once you connect it.. just follow the steps on turning it to ON.. then press off... then unlock.... then test it out.

Took me 5 minutes to install it.

Also, the starting the engine - as long as you get 3 honks within 3 seconds.. it should start... you can get 4 honks in 3 seconds and it will start - point is, as long as it gets 3 honks in 3 seconds - its the trigger.

Oh wait.. I also found that antenna info... let me find the pic.
 
#206 ·
So here's what I found on extending the range - (see attached)

This can be attached to the DBALL - but obviously, it will use these FOB instead of the facotry one... "apparently" the first model extends to 1000ft, then the next is 1500ft, then the next is 5000ft... 3rd model is 2 way - meaning, fob has an indicator if the car is fired up or unlocked and so forth.

I haven't tried to install any of them or even find out how to program them since i don't really have much time right now, christmas and all.

If I decide to move forward with it, and no onese else have.. I'll post info.
 

Attachments

#210 · (Edited)
Thanks,

Probably wouldn't install them right away.... It's getting cold here, and I hate working in the cold. Maybe I'll put them in when things warm up again, if I even put them in. Nice to have the option though.

How was the shipping time from the seller? I hope to have something ordered, and installed asap. Plan to place the order tonight.

<edit> - Ebay predicts to arrive in NY by Friday, with free shipping. Im in Canada, but not far from the border so for sure worth the trip to pick it up. Save the 25$ shipping...and it will be here this week. Great!
 
#211 ·
Thanks,

Probably wouldn't install them right away.... It's getting cold here, and I hate working in the cold. Maybe I'll put them in when things warm up again, if I even put them in. Nice to have the option though.

How was the shipping time from the seller? I hope to have something ordered, and installed asap. Plan to place the order tonight.

<edit> - Ebay predicts to arrive in NY by Friday, with free shipping. Im in Canada, but not far from the border so for sure worth the trip to pick it up. Save the 25$ shipping...and it will be here this week. Great!
They shipped the next day I ordered it. I got it in a day, but then again, i'm in AZ basically ground shipping from CA is 1 day. I was actually paranoid about it that I called them to make sure they flashed it correctly (after reading all the problems the other posters here said) but my process went through very smoothly. I spoke to a dude and he said that they already flashed it and on its way.


Funny - I'm sure you ordered this because its getting cold there (NY,) I ordered it because of the 120+ temp in the summer here.. lol
 
#212 ·
Too funny...

Your right...i am ordering for the cold for sure! Not sure what is worse, extreme cold, or extreme heat. At least with cold weather you can always put on more warm clothes....when it's hot, once you've taken everything off your kinda out of options. All though I'll take 120 Arizona dry heat over 90/95 + humid heat every day of the week!!! That is just unbearable. Give me heat, or give me humid, but please not both at the same time.... luckily we don't usually get a whole lot of days with both extreme heat, and humidity... but still, even one, is one too many...
 
#213 ·
Adding factory RS should work like my 09 Challenger R/T did when I installed the factory remote start.

I verified that my Express has the wiring harness for the hood open indicator. What is needed is to install the hood latch w/ hood open indicator $49 and the rubber button panel for a fobik with RS ($10 on ebay). I'll swap the rubber panel that has the disc for the RS button on the fobik then take it to the dealer to be programmed per instruction sheet.

I'm not going to swap the WIN so my fobik will work fine (all of are fobiks can do RS you just need the small disc that goes behind the rubber button panel).
My WIN (Wireless Ignition Node is what the fobik fits into) is the same as a RS version.
 
#215 ·
Hello all, thanks for this thread, some great info.

I have a question regarding installing this into a 2012 ram. I saw one post asking about a installing this into a 2500. It was mentioned that it will work, but I am wondering if this is possible on the Cummins rams? Is there a timer option available for the intake heaters?

Thanks for your help.
 
#216 ·
Great thread

I bought myself the DBALL off ebay for Christmas and was a little scared after reading some of these threads. I emailed the guy I bought it from and told him I had a 2011 RAM 1500, he said he would flash it for me no problem. It arrived on the 24th. It was -10 C out so I figured I would install it. It took less then 5 minutes to install and is working perfect.

I hope everyone else had a Merry Christmas.
 
#217 ·
Installed the Dball the other day. Wish everything went so smoothly. Install was super, super easy. People are not exaggerating when they say it's a 5 minute job. It really is.

I bought my unit pre-programmed from jsalarm on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/REMOTE-STAR...I-/120965744748?ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123

Bought from that seller, based on a recommendation from someone else in this thread. Like him, I received the unit quickly, and was properly programmed for my vehicle. Couldn't have been easier. I'll be at least the second in this thread to recommend them.

All around I'm super happy with a fast, easy and cheap remote starter....all without splicing any wires! Awesome.
 
#233 ·
The parking lights will not come on with remote start unless you hook up the violet/green(pin 8) and violet/brown(pin 9) MUX wires frome the db-all unit to the white wire on the headlight switch connector. Hope this helps.
 
#223 ·
I just got my Dball xpresskit and it was supposed to be preprogrammed but I can't get it to work. I installed it following the directions and had no luck. When I hit the lock button three times the radio comes on and dash flashes ang lights up but no engine start. If anyone knows what the problem is please let me know. Very frustrating! I contacted eBay seller and they gave me a few things try and then said I need to contact technical support because they did everything right. I will try that but if not I will be asking for a different unit that is reflashed.
 
#227 ·
I just got my Dball xpresskit and it was supposed to be preprogrammed but I can't get it to work. I installed it following the directions and had no luck. When I hit the lock button three times the radio comes on and dash flashes ang lights up but no engine start. If anyone knows what the problem is please let me know. Very frustrating! I contacted eBay seller and they gave me a few things try and then said I need to contact technical support because they did everything right. I will try that but if not I will be asking for a different unit that is reflashed.
im dealing with the same thing i called directed the makers of the dball and asked if i was a dealer or a installer i told them i bought it off ebay and they told me me sorry they couldnt help me real great customer service so i reflashed it same thing the dball goes threw the cycle it lights up it makes switching noise and nothing it goes threw it 3 times like it should but still will not start i have looked and looked on the web but no fixes yet im getting to the point of hard wiring instead of the t harness
anyone have a fix yet let me know i have worked along time for a 5 min job that dosent work
 
#229 ·
Okay, I just got done installing this kit in my 2012. I had a horrible time, but I finally figured it out. Below are some issues that I ran into but figured out.

1. When you install the software using the XKLoader2, plug the red plug into XKLoader2 and the white plug into the DB-ALL.

2. I am not sure if this is necessary, but it worked for me. I used the Chrysler v5.01 on the xpresskit website. I tried it with the v5.06 but it didn't work (I also think the above problem contributed to this, but it is working now and I am not going to mess with it.)


Once I got this figured out, all went well. It was super easy to install and the DB-ALL has two slots for zipties to fit through. I just secured it to the dash frame and buttoned everything up! Three locks on the key fob and it starts like a champ!
Hope this can help some of you out there, and if you are in the STL area and need to borrow the XKLoader2, just hit me up and we can meet up!
 
#230 ·
I to have a 2012 Ram 1500 and installed the db-all with harness. Installed it, programmed it and it remote starts fine. However, it will not start with the key. I can remote start and take over with the key and drive away, but it will not start with just the key alone. Any ideas?
 
#237 ·
got it for my 08, and well doesnt work, last light instead of green went red and now I dont know how to restart the dball. I had to buy the CHDT2 harness, not 1 cause mine was a 08, the ebay vendor told me to plug the blue and red set of wires into the dball, did it and got red light at the end. After all this go to normally start my truck, runs for 2 seconds and TURNS OFF, now i need some help please!
 
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