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A/C low pressure valve leaking

45K views 56 replies 4 participants last post by  sonocativo 
#1 ·
Awhile back I posted I filled the ac and it works...Well it keeps leaking down and I couldnt find any leaks with the detector. Finally found it as i refilled it, as it got cold and started condensing the water in the valve was showing bubbles forming around the tit. Now my question is, how do you fix that if its internal like it is ( it dont screw out like a bicycle valve ) it looks more like a complete line replacement??? Thanks for any help on this as I would like to try and save a few dollars but the heat is blazing here in the low 100 degrees and up the past week and getting worst in the coming weeks, The baby needs the a/c when I have him in there.
 
#2 ·
Yea I have this issue also, it would require a line replacement but you could just evac the system and then put some refrigeration oil on the let of the valve and open and close the valve, then charge the system and see how it goes, note their should be a plastic cover that screws on the valve to prevent dust and stuff from getting in there.
 
#4 ·
I'm aware of the fitting type, usually they have a screw on cap like you would find on the tires. Well I can first start off by telling you that those types of valves you and I have are known for leaking, mine even leaked and it's so low that the compressor cannot kick on because of the safety pressure switches. Well anyways I would just evac the system oil that valve a little and then try to fill it up a little bit, you might get lucky. But if no go then you probably would need to replace that line, and first hand experience I can tell you that would cost a little amount of money because it's pre-bent. I could if you want get you a oil used line from another truck, it's a gamble of the same issue happening but it's worth a shot and I can tell you the part I would give you would still be 90% cheaper than any store, dealer, retailer. But if you need any help or part numbers anything at all just name it and I'll try my best, I too and A/C less until I can round up 170 bucks to have my system evaced and charged. and again I too have a leak mines so small it takes years to leak out. so I'm really burning my money but, A/C is essential, especially in the south with all the bugs and humidity.
 
#5 ·
I filled mine at like 9pm and by 6am it was low...compressor still kicks on and off but the air is barely cool, where when I filled it, it was ice cold.... I will see what I can do with it before I go replacing a line, hopefully.
 
#6 ·
yes your lucky, my compressor can't kick on cause it's so low on refrigerant. anyways you have a big leak, mine took years to leak out. but anyways yea try putting some pag oil in around the valve opening and closing it maybe it will help, sometimes does. just be careful, PAG and 134a mixed together is very toxic.
 
#7 ·
I dont know what pag oil is? But I put water in the valve to check for the leak... It would bubble so I used a rod clamped in a pair of vice grips and I would give it a few raps to blow the water out and then check again for leaks. It sometimes bubbled more or less and finally it stopped. I noticed the vave is threaded inside the top tortion so I found a bolt with a locknut and a rubber o-ring and made my own makeshift cap. it still has a charge today so I guess I did a good job for the time being. Ill keep posted on how it holds up and Ill get a pic posted soon.
 
#10 ·
Like I said they come with a cap on them, the valves on the pickups haven't changed and they are the same as on the vans and cars etc... PAG oil is refrigeration lube that you put in the compressor and in the lines, it helps keep the system and o-rings lubed and conditioned. Anyways, neither refrigerant 134 and pag are toxic but if you mix them they are very toxic so be careful when playing with refrigeration systems. I don't mess to much with the systems because I don't have anything to capture the refrigerant from going into the ozone and I don't want the EPA by me. So I just put what I can in containers and everything else I pay someone to take care of. All that out of the way, you will probably have to replace the line but what you can do is try to lube that valve and then I can give you the part number for that cap that screws on and you can order it at the local dealership, they are cheap about 5 bucks. Mine leaks from that valve but I'm sure when I have my system evaced ect I will have the tech lube the valve for me, I would do it again myself but lack of capturing tools.

Well tell me how the fix holds. It should do ok, you should of tried a little teflon tape on those threads. just in case
 
#11 ·
I meant to say awhile back that you can actually replace that leaking valve. It unscrews off the line, if you choose to replace the valve make sure you don't overtighten it, A/C systems are sealed by o-rings so overtightening will only damage threads and that will end up leading to a big problem, anyways that valve is a high side valve you can pick one up for 6 bucks at autozone, I have two i keep as extras incase cause like i said mine was leaking but it doesn't leak anymore however my schrader valve on the low side is leaking but I won't replace the valve until the system is empty again. lucky for you your ac lines are aluminum while mine are steel so mine will rust away. but yea that valve you have that was leaking is replaceable.
 
#13 ·
They can be difficult to find, they were used mainly on the older ram's for a short time for very obvious reasons. The valve on the high side is known as a service port and the valve on the low side is known as a schrader valve (looks like a bicycle valve).

Anyways the valve you want to replace is fjc inc 2609. It's run about 99 cents on the internet. just google "fjc inc 2609" and you will find it. If you have a problem trying to get one I can probably send you one, you could replace it with the newer style valve if you wanted to but I don't really see a reason to since the newer style valves leak as well. I would recommend to replace every 6 years the hi and low side valves, the system o-rings, the drier. Be sure to evacuate the system on both high and low side with a vacuum pump that can withstand a holding vac of 28 in Hg for atleast 1 hour, be sure you evac for about 45 minutes don't evac for to long because you could actually damage components but it is very rare. If you have a large system like me which uses 6 canisters of refrigerant then it's smart to vac for about 1 and half hours.

All this aside it is hard to find the valve but not impossible. You could try a junk yard, a tip if you do go to the junk yards you will find that service valve on dodge ram van's typical year is around the middle 90's. you can remove the valve with a channel lock plier with no issues, again valves and hoses aren't to be tighten to much because it's mainly aluminum and it would strip thread easily. tell me if you come up with that valve.
 
#15 ·
Yea just take it easy on the jerky thats a cardiac infarction waiting to happen... Anyways the side that is leaking is the high side not the low side, low side uses schrader the high side uses older service ports. And of course you know but I just like going through the ritual of instructions to be sure that you only allow the refrigerant to enter into the low side as a gas only. Be sure to purge the service line on the manifold of any air when changing cans if you're using cans. and all that stuff, I found out that shaking the can rapidly helps empty the can out faster also when you add refrigerant through the manifold that you don't open the low side valve all the way only open it maybe 25% then move onto 50% this ways you can allow a very steady stream of refrigerant because as long as the can has more pressure than the low side you can release the gas 134 into the low side.

If you are unable to get that valve I can give you one, but I will only give you one if you certainly cannot obtain a valve. I horde the valves because I know they aren't easy to find and aware of their failure rates. Autozone sells a similar valve but I'm not aware of the size of the thread. But I will order one to find out.

Oh and if you're looking for a deal on 134a Big Lots sells 12Oz cans for 8 bucks each.
 
#16 ·
Now you tell me...lol I bought a can at Oreillys the other night because I was hauling some stuff today for a buddy and I needed the ac out there in the heat...whew its hot out 115* heat index and getting higher as the week goes. I will have to hit up big Lots before I change the valve, I got a buddy who has ac equipment but cant get ahold of him hardly, but I can buy a vac for $109 on amazon, so far the valves I pull up dont work on my 97 1500 360???? as it says when you enter the info?
 
#19 ·
Cross referencing isn't always correct but I have the same exact valve and sure it comes in a collection of sizes however chrysler has a known reputation for using the same size everything. That and I've seen a few 97 rams in the junk yard and of course like to treasure hunt for A/c valves and lines etc...
Well if you cannot get the valve then send me you shipping address and I'll snaily maily you one for free.
 
#17 ·
Oh, and as you say the low/high side... I add the 134a at the port in front by the radiator, it fills and gets colder as well as empty the can , The cans come with the hose/fitting and it fits on with no leaks or anything so I assume its the low side...lol
 
#18 ·
I'm guessing from you uncertainly that you have really no idea what you're doing. So I am going to help you on this, if I lived near or vice versa I would do it for 20 bucks. But heres the brake down.

You have two valves on is high side (largest valve) and one is a low side (smallest valve). Obviously the low side is lower pressure typically between 30-50 PSI and the high side is high pressure anywhere from 125-300 PSI.

When low side pressure increases so does the high pressure, however it varies based on temperature variables.

You have a evaporator and a condenser. The condenser sits outside the vehicle probably infront of the radiator and the evaporator sits some place inside the dash. The evaporator is gets cold the condenser gets hot, what the condenser does is to boil down the liquid refrigerant into a gas again, 134a boils at around -26 C.

The filter drier is basically a can with a dessicant that is used to remove moister from the system and it also stores liquid refrigerant incases of overfill and loss. It is wise to replace this part after so many years, thats why I say every 6 year overhaul the whole A/C system.

Then you have expansion valves, these control the flow of refrigerant, these typically don't have to be replaced normally the thermostatic ones do though. BTW Their are 3 types of expansion valves.

The system is sealed with O-rings, when two fittings connect their is an oring to seal it, when you connect a valve to a line o-ring. O-Rings to be replaced every 6 years blah blah blah.

Ok then you have you compressor which I'm sure you know about. And lastly you have your refrigerant oil and refrigerant.
Normally you don't have to add oil to the system usually the compressor is shipped with a fixed displacement of oil however sometimes you do have to add oil when you replace alot of parts that had stored oil or when you have an additional A/C system like in the vans, etc... The oil is basically used to lube the compressor and to keep the system from rusting from the inside out.

The refrigerant well nothing to say their, you can use many things as refrigerant, propane, butane, etc... But stick with 134a.

Now to move on to the tools of this flimsy trade.
You have your manifold, vacuum pump, and thermometer.

Ok their are two types of manifolds R12 and R134A. But we will only talk about 134a.

To start off the manifold has two hand valves a low side and high side, it has two gauges high side low side, and has two quick connect couplers high side and low side and on the couplers you will find little valves turning it clockwise opens it and counter clockwise closes it.
Then you have your hoses, you have a red one which is high side and blue one which is low side and then the yellow hose known as the service port. The yellow hose will connect to things like vacuum pumps, refrigerant cap taps, and of course the manifold it self to make a sealed loop.

Ok to start off, if the system is in need of repair make the repairs then fallow.

Connect the low side coupler to the low side valve on the vehicles ac system, then connect the high side coupler to the high side valve. Be sure the valves on the manifold are closed.

Now open the valves on the couplers by turning clockwise. Ok be now connect the yellow service hose to the vacuum pump.

Turn the pump on, then open the low side valve on the manifold then open the high side valve on the manifold, open these valves 100%.

Now let the vacuum pull in 28-30 in Hg for about 1 hour, this vacuum will eventually cause what ever moister or water in the system to boil to a vapor and will be sucked out.

Ok now close the high and low side valves on the manifold then turn the pump off and disconnect the hose from the pump. Now to check for leaks look at the manifold's low pressure gauge and read the vacuum, then come back 30 minutes and observe if the vacuum has decreased, if it has then their is a leak if not proceed.

Now we will skip adding oil, now to add refrigerant using those little 12 Oz cans. You will need a can tap so we will say you have one already.

THE HIGH SIDE VALVE ON THE MANIFOLD WILL ALWAYS BE CLOSED NEVER OPEN THAT VALVE.

Take the can tap and turn the valve counter clockwise and then screw the tap onto the can, then connect the yellow hose to the tap. Now turn the valve on the tap clock wise, this will open the can. Now turn the valve counter clockwise to open the valve, then at the manifold side just loosen the yellow hose and allow some of the refrigerant to escape this will purge any air from the service hose, air in the system will shorten the life of the system and will also contaminate refrigerant thus making it useless meaning that the system won't cool as effectively as it could.

Ok once you let some of the air out (about 4 seconds) tighten that hose back up, now you can begin to add refrigerant to start off you can put the key in the ignition and start the car. Then with the car running turn the A/C on the maximum settings then go back to the manifold and turn the blue (low side valve) on slowly until it's opened 100%, you will want to shake the can left to right rapidly, make sure the can is up right because you don't want liquid refrigerant on the low side, the low side cannot handle liquid refrigerant very well. The first can will empty out quickly and the can will get very cold so wear gloves. It will only take about 7 minutes to empty the 12 oz can, during the first can the compressor will cycle on and off until their is enough refrigerant in the system to keep the compressor from burning up. Ok once the can is empty you will shut off the low side valve on the manifold. Then loosen the yellow hose at the manifold a little to allow the residual pressure in the can to release. Once thats release you can remove the can then install the next one.

Be sure to fallow the same purge procedure for each can.

When you remove the couplers from the valves be sure you close the valves on the couplers first then remove the couplers, you can allow what ever gas is left in the manifold to release by unscrewing the yellow hose and opening both high and low valves on the manifold. Don't let the refrigerant or oil get on you.

You can get a manifold at a harbor freight for 40 bucks or you can go to autozone get one for about 50 bucks or rent one for 90 bucks (it's refundable)

The can tap runs you about 7 bucks. The refrigerant like I said 8 bucks a can at big lots :)

You can also get a vacuum pump at harbor freight for 100 bucks.

If your wondering about the high side valve why is it even their, well their is many ways to add refrigerant, the slow way is gas and the fast way is liquid, Liquid goes in the high side and gas in the low side, but don't try the fast way because it's alot more complicated then you think. It's mainly used when mass producing A/C systems, so basically when it's made.

Things you might get worried about, when adding refrigerant, at probably either the first or second can the manifold might get very very cold and condensate. This is normal.

Any questions ask me no problem
 
#20 ·
I know of some of the parts, a new dryer runs around $45 at Oreillys and they have the assortment of those green rubber o-rings, then the orifices I have no idea where they go...lol and I know there is a special tool to undo the lines but have no idea how to use it as well as the manifold. I know the ac doesnt get real cold as it should but it works enough to get me by so I know it needs a good vac and probly some real maintenance since it didnt work when I got it and started working when I added the can of leak/dye/oil... and topped it off with 134a. The can comes with a guage on it and the needle is in the filled marks. There is a guy that is local that will do the repairs cheap $60 for evac and fill + parts so I plan to have it done right soon, just getting the money up is the issue till then. Hopefully have it done in another week since I dont want to ruin anything. If I ever come to florida ( I have family there ) It would be great to meet and say Hi.
 
#21 ·
45 seems expensive, I mean you could get them for as cheap as 25 bucks.

Anyways, their aren't really any special tools to remove the lines, everything is either bolted or is connected via a fitting.
Anyways stay away from stop leaks and boosters and crap like that because it is a contaminant and will require the replacement of numerous parts. If their is a leak don't be cheap because a stitch in time saves nine.

Don't need to worry about the orifices you can find them at any government building :p If you do make it to florida it would be very nice to meet you but be warned it's been getting very hot and humid, unlucky me fixes his A/C to not use it cause it uses to much gas. But it's alright.

Anyways I gave you a instructions on how to do everything from using the manifold to everything, it's safe and a DIY can do it. If I can do it anyone can do it. And it's good to know to especially since everything has gotten to be expensive so it's the time to pinch and stretch every penny you can.

If you ever have any questions need help just ask me and I am more than happy to help.
 
#22 ·
Well, on a better note, if I buy the stuff and DIM ( DIY ) then I can do more....lol Well, I will weigh it out. Question: I was told the dryer had to be replaced anytime it is serviced with a full evac because of moister in the system? Would the evac for an hour or longer actually remove any moister or should i just go ahead and replace all o-rings, dryer, orifices, evac and fill? I think my cost would still be manageable if i dont screw anything up????
 
#24 ·
The evacuation will remove moister because the vacuum in the system would cause water to vaporize and then it would be sucked out. Basically when a high vacuum is created and is sustained it causes water to boil.

As for the drier it is generally wise to replace the drier however you don't have to everytime you do a repair. Generally every 6 years is best, by that time refrigerant has hit 50% of it's half life.

The o ring I recommend you replace them because chances are then never have been replaced but you might not have to because if the only leak is coming from that valve then you're fine and as long as you don't disturb anything else then it would be fine but once you loosen something with an old o-ring then that o-ring will need to be replaced.

Trust me it works out to be cheaper, I called around and visited some people I did work for and the prices were around 170 bucks, it cost me only 100 bucks in refrigerant and tools to do the job. I got the manifold for 40 bucks and the refrigerant cost me 50 bucks. big lots... :)

But best of all if you ever have to service your a/c system then it would only cost you refrigerant and o-rings as general service.

The vacuum pump cost me 100 bucks from harbor freight but I returned the pump the next day. :)

Trust me you will not screw up anything, it's a very easy thing. People try to make it seem hard but once you do it you will be like, what the hect are people talking about hard...
 
#25 ·
Yeah, sometimes my air is colder other times it is cool? The guage shows about 55 psi and it is just a hit and miss with the same reading... but like you said, I really have no clue what Im doing but with the instructions you gave me I am willing to give it a shot in the dark. Thanks for all the helpful info/advice on the subject. A little funny story to share with you. I have a friend who is a licensed ac/heating guy now, but back in the days of high school he was a wanna be, well he offered to fix my buddy's ac on the monte carlo... well, R-12 didnt work very long....or should i say the compressor didnt like it....lol
 
#27 ·
Well when you deal with R12 which is illegal now but still used it comes down to the oil. If you convert r12 to 134a you have to basically be sure you get all the oil style r12 oil and replace it with the newer pag oil. The old r12 oils were natural the new pag is a synthetic oil.

When the A/C system looses some pressure the A/C will actually blow colder then it will blow hot as refrigerant is getting to low. The lower the pressure the colder to a certain point, with A/C systems it's a has to be perfect to much pressure and not as cold as it can be and to low it won't work. That's why one useful tool in the trade is a thermometer you find them next to the refrigerants usually lol....

If you do this all yourself just tell me when you get ready to and I'll will give you my phone number so if you get stuck need help even talk you through it over the phone then their ya go. I am always happy to help someone.
 
#28 ·
ok, I do know the dryer is connected with these clip looking things and the lines have like flanges so i assume the flanges have the orings, I will take pictures tomorrow or even a short video to post so you can see everything. It is all in the open so its easy to access everything. This is my last post for the evening, Im off to bed. Thanks again for all your help and info on the subject.
 
#29 ·
if the drier is an old style which is one that is between the block style expansion valve and the low and high combination block style line then their isn't o-rings, if it's a newer style probably is then you will are likely to find O-rings where the drier is connected. Anyways becareful around 134a, though not harmful it is less dense then air so you can actually die of asphixation.

Good night.
 
#30 ·
Here is that video, I started at the firewall/dryer, followed the line to the assumed low pressure side ( small valve/schrader?) to the coil, then followed the hoses to the compressor ( assumed high side/ large valve? ) and back to the dryer ( and the connectors ) cant see anything inside as we all know the coil is inside an enclosed encasement with the fan and all the good stuff that controls the airflow...:doh:

 
#31 ·
Here is that video, I started at the firewall/dryer, followed the line to the assumed low pressure side ( small valve/schrader?) to the coil, then followed the hoses to the compressor ( assumed high side/ large valve? ) and back to the dryer ( and the connectors ) cant see anything inside as we all know the coil is inside an enclosed encasement with the fan and all the good stuff that controls the airflow...:doh:

Well I think it's time you do replace that drier, iot looks as if it's the original. Autozone has them for I think 25 bucks. But eitherway you only have to replace them once in a while so thats not to bad. I do believe that this one is O-Ring sealed also. Just be sure to relieve system pressure before you do any repairs to avoid injury.
The only coil you will be able to see is the condenser.
 
#33 ·
I hate to say it but thats not good that one of those closed down, that just shows how the economy is doing. Anyways well if you can't get one their your only other bet is to just buy one from their website and usually they have 10% off cupons and stuff and 15% 15NOW is the code. That or the autozone has them but they're like 60 bucks. You could try ebay too, actually I saw on ebay a gauge and pump for 120 bucks.
 
#34 ·
I did look at their website and there is a few further out... seen a cheap pump for like $20... anyways I did find a cap for the low side and it seals the leak for the time being, also found out I wasnt adding enough 134a ( calls for 34oz. or 55 psi ) so I added and could only get to 45psi ? The air is cooler and the thermometer is showing 58 degrees but I dont know if its supposed to get colder or not ( checked while filling at idle )
 
#35 ·
Well the pump that is like 20 bucks isn't efficient enough though it works it doesn't pull a vac quite as well as a real 2.5CFM pump for example, you also need to hold vacuum in order to vaporize the water. Anyways that 20 dollar pump requires you to have compressed air.

It's ok if you don't add enough refrigerant because like I said before systems in cars and trucks will actually run colder when their is less refrigerant but at one point it will be to low and then it will blow hot air. Anyways what you do is you get the refrigerant in their by holding the can upright when it feels empty turn it upside down this will allow whatever liquid refrigerant is left to enter the system though you're not suppose to put liquid refrigerant in the low side port it is ok in small doses. 58 Degrees isn't really that good generally the pressure goes hand in hand with a temperature, look for a r134a temperature chart this will give you a read out of a pressure and the temp it corresponds to.

Anyways just get a manifold, pump, can tap, 3 cans of R134a, some O-Rings a new valve and a new drier and then you will have a new A/C system.

And once again stay away from any stop leak those contaminate the system and sometimes require you to replace just about everything. Stop leaks are for when you have a leaky O-Ring seal, how it works is it makes the rubber expand however when that happens it makes the rubber very brittle.
 
#36 ·
Ok. I did let some 134 out using and old fill tube/connector into a plastic bottle, the air just got warm so I was like ok, its not over filled or too much 134.... Then I started adding the 134 and it got colder but it wouldnt take much so I gave up for the night, so tonight or tomorrow I will be running around and I will see if it gets colder or not driving which I assume it should since the compressor will be running faster longer, then try to add some more later if needed. It will probly be a week or so before I can buy everything needed as I got to get my tierods replaced before one breaks ( they are severely worn as well as my tires are dry rotted but found a nice set I am hoping to get soon)
 
#37 ·
I'm in a similar situation, I also need 4 new tires cause mine are all dry rot cause the vehicle I got was sitting and didn't move an inch for 6 years and the tires at that point were already worn, I had one tire pop from the cracks and the rest are getting their. Anyways enough of that lol....


When you let some refrigerant out you should do it with a manifold with the car running on max ac because when it's on max ac the liquid refrigerant will become gas so you will actually bleed a bit better and safer versus just letting it out. You also need the manifold to regulate the flow because what you don't want getting into the system is air. Anyways pressure is different at running then off. But I do notice usually around 34 psi is when it's really cold, of course if you replace many parts of the system and everything it will blow even colder but it comes down to budget if that, but basically replacing the simple parts like drier and doing a evac and getting only refrigerant in will really be best.

Anyways I have a vehicle that when it has to correct amount of refrigerant in exactly 6 cans it actually is hotter then when I have like 4 cans.
 
#38 ·
It was running and was just vapor out of the hose, that bottle felt really good out in that heat..lol Well its something like 119 degree heat index here and Hope to change out all the tie rod components next week so I hope we get some cooler weather soon anyways...geez this heat is miserable !!!!
 
#40 ·
What area of Florida are you in? I got 2 cousins in Florida, One lives in West Palm Beach and the other in Daytona, My cousin in West Palm Beach is supposed to take me on an airboat ride whenever I get down there and go Alligator hunting. I love Cajun Alligator meat as well as Smoked Rattle Snake meat... Cant get it up here.
 
#41 ·
I live in palm coast which is about 25 miles south of me. I got to daytona often. Anyways yes aligator tail is good haven't had it in a while though but I can honestly say people don't lie when they say it taste like chicken, lol If it taste like chicken why not just have chicken lol... Anyways if you ever come down pay me a visit.
 
#46 ·
Yea no problem, I was going to prepare myself to service my A/C in a year so I was thinking why should I use an old valve when it's possible to get a new one so I did a little peaking around for it and well found one on the web so their ya go... A

You and your family will enjoy disney, it's not that bad if you go during the winter season cause summer is hell down here. But it's big and full of things to do so you won't get bored fast. Universal studios and MGM is great also, I haven't been to any theme parks in so long cause money being tight and the price it cost for me to drive my truck down there it's like 120 bucks. Then the tickets are around 100 each and if you stay then the hotel is like 200 for a couple nights and thats like a cheap hotel, I mean sure I use to stay at some damn expensive hotels but not anymore. But anyways if you do go to disney I hope you really enjoy it, it's a blast.
 
#47 ·
My wife gets discount packages through work and stuff, she went ( 2 adults and 2 kids ) a few years back and stayed a week on the premises for $5000. I know if I go I wont be riding any rides due to my spinal injuries, but will love the sight seeing. Besides I have family there so i can go visit to pass time. probly a few new friends to visit as well.
 
#48 ·
5000, thats alot of money. But I guess it could be worth it, but I would be in that park 24/7 to get my monies worth lol. Anyways come down sometime, winter is when I use to go to Disney and Universal etc... Sometimes they have some specials going around during that time. But I never really rode the rides either, always been scared of falling out of a roller costar. I've seen advertisements for city walk at universal, I might go this summer actually, but it depends if their is money and well time especially but I'm sure their is. Anyways, their are other things I want to do but don't have the geographics for it such as white water rafting lol...
 
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